How To Improve YOUR Trot-Canter Transitions

canter long
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

What happens to you and your body when you head into a canter transition from a trot?

I've written plenty about how to do the transition, what leg aids to use, and how to improve your horse's impulsion. But really, what are you doing while you're negotiating the balance to and through the gait change?

Do you stiffen up and get left behind the horse's movement?

Do you collapse and lean forward?

Do you look down at your horse's head and neck, frantically grabbing for and/or releasing the reins?

I'm sure there are other things that can happen. And if you do any of these things, don't feel bad or guilty. We have ALL been there at some point, and the ones who look like they're doing nothing at all have practiced and practiced to get to that point.

Obviously, the goal is to appear to be as motionless as possible, not interfere with the horse's movement while at the same time, be effective enough to help him with his energy level, balance and tempo. It's a fairly tall task, especially when you are in the early learning phases.

Exercise

This one can be a lot of fun, although it can challenge you in terms of strength and endurance. The key benefit is that you will be working your muscles, not your mind. A by-product is that your horse will likely also improve as cantering becomes more routine.

OK so first, do a quick review of the canter transition here, so you know what you are going to do.

Now, the only thing left to do is practice it.

But there is a special way you can practice the transition that will help you lose your tightness/fear/anticipation.

1. Do a LOT.

How many transitions can you do? Let's say you can start with 10 on each side, in a row. So 10 transitions to the right, 10 to the left. The key is to do them all in a row.

Go to the trot, and then canter. Don't stay in the canter too long. We're not practicing the canter here, we're practicing the transition. So you should emphasize the transition, not the trot before or the canter after.

After you get the canter, go back to trot. Then do it all again.

When you get good at this, you should do all 20 transitions within a few minutes. The idea is not to tire your horse out, but to get through all of the transitions quickly.

However, the real idea is to do the repetitive movement so many times that your muscles finally give up (being tight, strained, stiff, and whatever else they're doing)! You're basically working on your muscle memory (especially in your core).

2. Focus on the gaits before and after

The trot should be a nice, controlled trot. As in - running out from under you is not an option! Develop a good, cadenced, rhythmical trot, and then canter.

The canter should be a nice, controlled canter! Once again, keep your horse "on the aids" so that any rushing or running can be avoided.

Oh yeah. Didn't I say that you shouldn't stay in either gait for too long? That still holds true. Get nice, controlled gaits before and after - quicker than you think! Don't tire your poor horse out too much!

*If your horse has a tendency to run in the gaits, and therefore has a transition that is difficult to manage, you might have to change your focus from this exercise to one that teaches you how to control the gaits first. Then come back to this at a later time.

3. Getting good?

Now you can move on to a little more challenge.

You can ride wherever you like in the ring, and switch between left and right lead transitions. Maybe you'll do three right lead canter to trot transitions, then one left lead, then one right, then two left. Get creative, try to "pop quiz" your horse a bit (and your body).

4. Feel your body.

This is the hardest part. The thing is, once we're blue-printed in a "feel", we think it's the right feel. So if you hunch over in the transition, it will feel very awkward for you to stay tall and tighten your core. In fact, it might actually feel wrong.

An instructor, or an educated eye on the ground, is most indispensable at this point. You need to have someone tell you how you look, and what you should do to improve your body position through the transition.




The idea is to stay tall (no lean in any direction), stay loose but toned enough to not flop, and follow the horse. Keep your eyes up and look ahead to help keep your upper body aligned. Ride from the seat first. Soften your elbows but be ready to support the horse (half-halts) if there is any rushing or falling to the forehand.

5. Lunge? 

I put a question mark because I know how hard it is to find a good lunging horse and instructor. But if you have access to both, you're very lucky and on the best short-cut to improving everything about your body.

The most amazing feeling is to have someone control your horse while you go through multiple trot/canter transitions - without having to steer, balance on the reins (yes, we all do that at some point!), or even worry about your horse's gait. Then you can focus on you - your seat, your upper body, your legs... there's plenty to do without the reins!

There you have it. Don't overwork your horse, but get used to the transition by doing many over a short period of time. Also, have fun with it. Don't make it a stressful thing - just play, try, and even if things don't come together right away, your body will develop over time just from the practice.

*Thanks to Kelle, who asked about stiffness in transitions on my Facebook page. Hope this helps! 🙂

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Goal Setting For The Equestrian
Click to learn more.

Use this hands-on guide to create your own personalized, structured and organized horse riding goals. Track your progress for a complete year.

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look our Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

  • design your overarching goals
  • long- and short-term planning,
  • debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
  • reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
  • sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information.

What Are The Leg Aids For Canter?

leg aids to canter
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

While the leg aids change little between the walk and trot, the canter does require some change in function and coordination.

Even when riders seem to know what they're doing, there may be some confusion about the fine tuning of the aids. Students often ask me to review especially the leg aids for the canter to make sure they are asking for the correct lead, and timing the aid in a way that helps the horse the most.

Basic aids

The basic aids are the way you first learn to ask for the canter. This method helps the rider find and keep balance especially as the horse changes gait and takes that first step into the canter.

1. Inside leg at the girth

The inside leg must stay at the girth. This leg might not have to do much in terms of squeezing at the calf but it is important in case the horse falls in on the inside shoulder. Many horses will lean into a turn or come off the straight line when they move into the canter, and the inside leg is the aid that helps keep the horse straight through the transition.

Put pressure with the lower leg and calf if your horse falls in. Wait for the horse to straighten up before you apply the outside leg, even if it takes a few strides before he's ready. If he doesn't fall in, you can apply both legs almost simultaneously (inside leg should go first though).

2. Outside leg behind the girth

I call this the "windshield wiper" leg. If you can free your leg at the knees, you can "swoosh" your lower leg back behind the girth, and basically teach the horse to take that first step with the outside hind leg as you swing your leg back. Please note that the leg doesn't have to stay far back behind the girth, though it should be positioned a little further back than the inside leg to be effective in keeping the hip straight and asking for the correct lead.

In general, you shouldn't have to apply a lot of pressure with the outside leg.

3. Seat

Well, I'd be remiss to not mention the seat here, even though I know I'm focusing on the leg aids.

The seat really is THE aid that indicates the gait change. In other words, your legs position the horse's body so he doesn't swing in with the shoulders, or swing out with the hips... but really, it's the seat that indicates the canter.

Just to keep it short - you position yourself so you are sitting tall on the inside seat bone, and you switch your seat rhythm from the trot to the canter. You can sit the last few trot steps so you can be in the saddle for the transition.

Please Note

Notice that I didn't mention a kick in any of the aids.




Sometimes I get questions about why I don't want to kick into the transition, and I realize it might be a little controversial for me to say this. However, in theory, the strike off for the canter does not need the rider to bang the horse on the sides and throw her weight forward (or fall behind backward). In fact, the quieter you can be, the better it is for the horse (and invariably, for you as you negotiate the balance change into the canter).

If your horse absolutely won't canter without a kick, then yes, go to the kick. But I encourage riders to work toward first positioning the legs as above, second exaggerating the windshield wiper outside leg, third changing the seat to a canter movement, and FOURTH - kicking with both legs. Then work toward weaning your horse off that kick, and become quieter in your position.

The Upper Body

The idea is to not fall forward or backward through the transition. Many of us want to collapse forward in attempt to encourage the horse to "go forward" - but changing from the trot (or walk) to canter is not really going forward at all.

In fact, it's more about changing the horse's legs. It's not about going faster, or getting longer in the body, or pulling on the horse to keep him shorter, or anything at all. There should really be no change (in our dreams!) other than the legs going from the two-beat trot, to the three-beat canter with an easily heard moment of suspension.

Ideally, the first step in the canter should be bold and strong, but not runaway. The next steps should be the same. You should clearly hear the three-beat rhythm of the footfalls. The canter should be round (not flat), ground-covering (not fast) and consistent (not slow down-speed up - slow down - speed up).

The Hands

This article is about the legs, so I won't go much into the hands except to say that they really shouldn't do much. 🙂

Ideally, they'd maintain the horse's flexion and bend. The rein might need to be shortened a little (an inch or so) if the reins were long-ish at the trot. Otherwise, there's little to do other than not interfere.

For a more advanced description of all the aids, check out the 7 Essential Aids For An Epic Canter Transition.

Now that I've shared my version of the leg aids for canter, I'd love to hear yours. What problems have you had with the transition to canter? What solutions have you found over the years? Share in the comments below.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Horse Listening The Book
Click to learn more.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the book:
"There are many reasons why we enjoy riding horses. Maybe one of the most appealing facets of riding is the sense of freedom: freedom from our own limitations, freedom from gravity, freedom to (literally) roam the Earth. Time stands still while we have the privilege of feeling movement from the back of our four-legged friend.
Riding gives us the place to just be.
Of course, there are other purposes too. Some of us revel in the challenge of learning the skills required to becoming a good team member of this unlikely duo. Riding is like no other sport or recreational pursuit simply because of the equine partner that must not only carry us, but also do so effortlessly and gracefully. As we develop our specific skill sets, we also grow as human beings in character, emotional maturity and mental acuity.
But there is one other motivation that drives some of us to persevere in the never-ending learning process that is horseback riding: improving the horse. As your own skills develop, you begin to realize that not only can you meet your own needs through riding, but also that you can even become an instrument of benefit for the horse."
And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.
This book is geared toward the rider:
- the rider's motivations
- the essential skills for the rider
- some specific strategies
- solutions to common problems
- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience
Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!
Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

A Simple and Effective Horse Riding Warm Up (Exercise)

warm-up

I've written about warm-ups before but this is one of my favorites.

I often start the ride with this exercise, and it's great for so many reasons! It suits many horses for different end goals. Of course, you can use it during the middle of the ride as well, or maybe even make this your whole ride with a few variations.

This warm-up is suitable for:

  • young horses
  • inexperienced older horses
  • the sluggish to start horse
  • the runaway to start horse (!)
  • the imbalanced horse
  • the horse that is still trying to find a good tempo and rhythm
  • the horse working on basic gaits and transitions
  • the more educated horse, with some adjustments

It is also useful for:

  • the young rider
  • the inexperienced rider
  • the rider who is working on basic aids
  • the rider who is finding a good rhythm and tempo
  • the rider who is nervous of the runaway or unpredictable horse
  • the rider who needs some structure in the warm-up

The actual figure is fairly simple (but beware: simple may not be easy). Basically, you do four 20-meter circles as you make your way around the ring once.

  1. Start at C (Circle #1). If I'm on the left rein, I will start at trot and do a 20-metre circle at C. Then I'll navigate the corner, and head up the rail to E.
  2. Go into a new 20-metre circle at E. Then back to the rail, the corner, and head to A.
  3. Start a new circle at A. Complete that circle, go to the corner, head for B.
  4. This first round ends with a final circle at B. Go back to the track and head to A again.

I'll use this figure at the walk for ten minutes or so before I start the trot. Once I'm in the trot, I'll work on developing a strong but steady trot through the whole figure.

You can also do this at the canter of course, which presents all kinds of new and exciting challenges as you navigate turns and straight lines.

Do it several times each way, at each gait.

Pay particular attention to the following.

Circle Size and Placement

You don't have to aim for exact 20-meter circles if you are not practicing for dressage tests. However, do pick a circle size that fits your riding space, and be consistent all the way around the ring. Make it even on both sides (avoid falling in or drifting out).

Flexion

Flexion is one of the most basic component of suppleness over the top line. Always work on getting your horse to look in the direction of his movement. You don't even have to pretzel into a bend on these circles because of their large size.

However, you should be able to see the corner of your horse's inside eye in the turns. This helps your horse release the tension especially in the jaw and neck, as well as position him for better balance through a turn.

Rhythm and Tempo

This one is for the less-than-inspired horses and conversely, for the runaways. Try to find your horse's ideal tempo and stick to it.

Make sure it is energetic enough to allow him to use his hindquarters in such a way that he will have better balance in the turns and circles. You may need to jazz up the energy a bit in the circles - many horses tend to slow down or disengage when they head into a turn.

On the other hand, if your horse just goes faster-faster-faster, the circles are a great natural vehicle to help you regulate that leg speed and balance the horse better to the hind end. Use plenty of half-halts before, through and after each circle and in the corners.

Straightness

This figure alternates between mild bends on the circles, and straightness on the rails. This helps teach you and your horse to straighten after a bend and bend after being straight.

The straight lines give your horse a chance to unwind a bit out of the circles, reach forward and energize, and prepare for the next corner or turn. If your horse has a tendency to ride with his shoulders close to the rail, you might want to do a shoulder-fore as you travel up the straight lines.

Balance

As already mentioned, this exercise is a study in balance. Your horse might fall in to the circle. He might drift out. He might fall to the forehand on the straight lines. He might speed up and slow down. He might turn his neck in too much, or have a crooked head position.



These are all symptoms of imbalance and can be improved with half-halts, transitions and impulsion. As you develop your feel, you will know when to add some energy, when to stop it from "running out the front end", and when to slow the feet down altogether.

It is quite a challenge to be able to keep your horse in balance, in rhythm, in a steady tempo that is energetic but not too fast, in a mild bend as you go into and out of circles and lines. In fact, it is challenging enough that I tend to use this for not only beginner horses or riders, but also for the more advanced ones as they find their way through the nuances that improve quality of gait, connectedness and harmony. I use it myself too for horses at all stages.

Finally, you can get more creative with this figure. Once you feel you have a good handle on it, you can play around with transitions or circle sizes. You can canter one circle, trot another, walk a corner. You can do two 20-meter circles and two 10-meter circles. More advanced horse and rider combinations can add two "crunches" (or "sitting down") into the each circle. The sky is the limit in terms of what you can add to make it more exciting!

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Goal Setting For The Equestrian
Click to learn more.

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look our Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

  • design your overarching goals
  • long- and short-term planning,
  • debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
  • reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
  • sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information.

The Many Uses Of The Oval (Exercise)

oval exerciseRide the circle but don't diss the oval!

The oval is rarely talked about in dressage circles (see the pun?) but it can be used quite successfully for many purposes. While a circle is helpful in establishing a bend and encouraging better use of the horse's hind end, the oval offers something that the circle does not: the straight line that occurs in between two turns.

If you want to throw a little line into your circles, the oval is a great option. The horse has to learn to not only bend and adjust the hind end activity for the circle, but then he can use that increased activity to take into a line. The line allows the horse an opportunity to move more forward, increase the stride length and reach ahead. Think expansion after compaction.

Then comes the next turn. Back to engagement of the hind end, bending, and using the inside hind leg deeper under the body.

Exercise

Try this exercise for some challenging balance and transition development. 

Transition points are in the middle of each turn section.

- Start with a trot as you come out of the turn into the straight line. Go up the line at trot (probably should use a shoulder-fore to ensure straightness). 

- Begin the next turn in trot. Transition to canter in the middle of the turn. 

- Finish the next turn and head into the straight line in canter.

- Transition back to trot in the middle of the new turn.

Keep going! Do it a few times, then you can take a walk break and change directions.

If you want to increase difficulty, do walk-canter transitions. 

If you think you're ready for it, try canter-counter-canter transitions through walk (as in, canter in the true lead for half the oval, and counter canter in the other half). 🙂

Possible Problems and Corrections

Correct ovals can be difficult to master, considering the various balance shifts and bend changes. If you can be aware of potential problems, you can help support your horse through the oval to help him (and you!) maintain the best balance he can as he goes through the exercises.

I've added several links to further reading, if you need more information.

Crookedness

The oval is a great tool to show you just how straight you and your horse really are. Any drifting, falling in, or shoulder-bulging will become very evident as you negotiate the end of a turn and head into the straight line.

Horse drifts out: Use a strong enough (as much as needed, as little as possible) neck rein to keep your horse's shoulders moving on the turn and not drifting out. You can add outside leg to help keep the hips on the line and a mild open rein on the inside rein to invite the shoulders a bit to the inside (shoulder-fore) if needed.

Horse falls in: Use a direct inside rein combined with an open outside rein to help invite the outside shoulder to stay on the track. Also use your inside leg and seat bone to push the horse outward.

Shoulder-Bulging: By this, I mean that the horse leans (or "falls") on one shoulder or the other. It can happen on the inside shoulder or the outside, depending on the crookedness of the horse, even if the horse still moves in a straight line. In either case, ride with two direct reins (with contact but not pulling), hands in front of the saddle by the withers, and don't let the horse take the reins away from you. Stabilize yourself through strong elbows on your body and tight core, and you can stabilize the horse too.

Add some leg for impulsion and get the horse to straighten thanks to the forward energy.

Speeding Up On The Line

Many horses will have a tendency to speed up after they round the final part of the turn. The extra energy and strength achieved by the turn will prompt them to speed up their legs and head off into the sunset! Beware of that extra tempo, because extra speed invariably means falling to the forehand.

You can't let all the energy just fly out the "front door", so to speak. This is where half-halts are essential in helping to keep the horse balanced and moving uphill as much as possible. Maintain the leg speed by half-halting even as you turn the last corner before the straight line. Then half-halt as needed as you straighten.

Your horse will begin to predict the balance control after you do this a few times. Always remember - you don't want the leg speed to increase. If anything, you want the stride length to increase. Not the speed!

"Sucking Back" on the Turn

The opposite can happen as you come into a turn. Your horse might actually disengage in the hind end - shorten his stride, hollow his back a bit, slow down... think that he leaves his hind end out behind him. You might actually feel like he becomes more comfortable as he moves less and stops swinging through the back.

It's perfectly reasonable for a horse to do this as he enters a turn, because negotiating a turn off a straight line takes work and strength. In this case, you will need to be aware and feel it coming on. Use both legs to encourage your horse forward, and use your reins to prepare for the bend and turn aids.




Again, you're not trying to get your horse to launch off to oblivion, but you are working on maintaining the energy you acquired on the straight line.

Using the Rail For the Turn

This is generally a rider problem. Sure, the horse might want to drift to the rail, but the track the horse takes is always determined by the rider.

Because it's a rider problem, it can be easily fixed! Make sure that you turn off the rail early, not at the end of your ring. Teach your horse that he can come off the rail at any point on the line. Then head to the opposite rail off the end of the ring as well.

You can also work on staying a few feet off the rail itself when you're on the straight line. Practice teaching the horse to move straight on his own, not using the rail for direction. If you have a large ring, this can be easily done. It's harder to do in a small ring, but you can make a point of staying off the rail even in that case.

Well, have fun with this exercise and let us know how it went in the comments below! What did you find success at? What was the challenging part? What do you need to change to improve you and your horse's balance as you negotiate the transitions and bend?

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Goal Setting For The Equestrian
Click to learn more.

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look our Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

  • design your overarching goals
  • long- and short-term planning,
  • debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
  • reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
  • sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information. 

The Essential Open Rein

open rein
Right open rein. My wrists could be more upright (thumbs on top). Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Depending on whom you talk to, the open rein may be considered the "go to" aid, or the one rein aid with the bad rap. Many people move onto more sophisticated rein aids fairly soon in their riding process, convinced that the open rein is only for the young or the inexperienced.

The thing is, this rein aid is like the letter "a" in the alphabet. You simply can't start reading without knowing how it works and what it can do. Even when you become a fully mature, experienced reader, you can't just drop that letter in favor of all the others. It's always there, ready to be used in different ways, in a variety of circumstances.

And so it goes with the open rein.

What is the open rein?

It's the simplest, most basic rein aid we learn. It is of course useful in all the disciplines and with all types of bridles because of its primary effect, which is to invite the horse into the open space created by the rein action.

To open the rein, you simply move it away from the horse's neck, in the intended direction. Note that you don't pull back while you open. The pressure on the rein should be the same as it was when your hand was close to the neck. Your elbow should still be on your side as usual (i.e. don't open your elbow in the direction as well - no "chicken wings!"). The opening comes from your forearm as it moves away from the horse's neck.

The rein should be only 4 to 6 inches off the horse's neck. It doesn't need to open wide, or for you to take your hand to your knee (however tempting that may be at times). In fact, as you get better at opening the rein, you can reduce the distance from the horse's neck. Most advanced horse and riders can find the smallest open rein as useful as a wide one. Think maybe 2 inches off the neck as you progress in your balance and aids.

It sounds so simple, right? Just like the letter "a". Once you know the sounds (short and long a), you're ready to read every word it's used in!

Till you come across the more complicated words!

There's more to it than that.

So here's the thing with the open rein. Although that rein is fairly simple, it can't happen on its own. There have to be supporting aids that go along with it. So while you're working on the one rein, you have to coordinate your seat, outside rein and leg aids at the same time.

Otherwise, you will accomplish little. The only thing that happens if you use the open rein in isolation is that you literally turn the horse's nose in the direction of the pressure. He may or may not follow that pressure (has your horse ever moved in the opposite direction of the rein aid?). He may swing his neck in the direction and lose his straightness. He may also lose balance and engagement.

So in reality, the open rein isn't for the faint hearted!

When can you use an open rein?

Here are five common situations in which you could use an open rein to encourage better balance, throughness, impulsion and suppleness, depending on the situation. I'll start at the beginning for a beginner rider and horse, and then develop into more advanced use.

1. New Rider

The new rider clearly benefits  from learning the open rein. As hand-dominated human beings, we are always pointing toward the objects of our attention. One of the most intuitive ways to learn to direct a horse is to essentially "point" with the rein. Open the rein to the direction you want to move in, and the better educated horse will comply.

However, you should also use your entire body and outside rein to support the open rein. Click here to read a detailed description of how the body and reins can work as one to achieve a turn from the whole body, rather than from just a rein.

2. Young or Uneducated Horse

The open rein is one of the first rein aids a young horse will learn, even if more developed rein aids are introduced shortly thereafter.

Used with the supporting aids from the rider's body, the open rein will teach the horse that pressure on the mouth translates into movement in a direction. It is an uncomplicated aid and naturally invites the horse to step into the opening created by the rein.

3. Straighten The Outside Shoulder

Does your horse have a tendency to "drop in" to the turn or circle? This means that when you turn, the horse cuts the circle toward the inside of the ring, thereby not really staying on the arc of the circle at all. You are lucky that your great seat can follow his trajectory, otherwise, you would continue on the circle (horseless) while he heads off somewhere completely different!

In this instance, the outside open rein can act as a correction.

A slight open rein on the outside will invite the outside shoulder to stay where it is and prevent it from falling in. In effect, you're creating some space to help encourage the shoulder to stay on the arc of the circle (straight on the circle). This is straightness.




You also need a direct inside rein (the rein that goes straight from the horse's mouth to your elbow, parallel to the horse's neck) as a support. This rein will also help to keep the horse's head from turning completely to the outside.

4. Invite Flexion

A mild open rein will invite the horse to turn his head just enough for you to be able to see the corner of his inside eye. That way, he will be looking in the direction of travel. Flexion is the beginning of softening of the poll, throughness and maintaining balance.

The inside open rein, coupled with an active inside leg, will encourage the horse to flex to the inside. You can also use an outside direct or neck rein (depending on if the horse is on a straight line or on a turn) to prevent overflexion to the outside. Flexion is the beginning of bend, so with the correct seat and leg aids, you can progress to bend as the horse becomes more educated.

5. Shift Weight To The Outside

This is the most complicated use of the open rein, and follows flexion.

Using an inside open rein (and outside rein as described above), and an active inside seat bone and leg, you can actually ask the horse to step out, away from the opening rein. This can be very helpful when you want to shift the horse's weight off the inside shoulder, and initiate a flexion or bend at the same time.

It also allows the horse to learn to step straight through with the inside shoulder rather than fall in or duck toward the middle of the ring (similar to #3 above, but focusing on the inside shoulder instead). A straight inside shoulder can be a big help when it comes to allowing the energy through the body - which means improved impulsion, throughness and suppleness. 

I'm sure there are other uses for the open rein that I haven't thought of. Let us know in the comments below what your experience with the open rein is, and how you use it in your rides.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Goal Setting For The Equestrian
Click to learn more.

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the new Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

  • design your overarching goals
  • long- and short-term planning,
  • debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
  • reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
  • sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information.

It Really Is All About The Horse’s Back – Video

Which starts with the the hind end: impulsion, engagement, "stepping under".

In case you haven't seen this video yet on my Facebook page, I thought I'd post it here.

This has to be one of the most informative videos I have seen about how riding affects the horse's back. There are visuals, radiographs, an instructor's perspective, as well as veterinarian explanations. The video is 18 minutes long, so save it for when you have enough time to sit and really watch.

One of the riding recommendations is to use the stretch as a way to help the horse develop his topline and strength over the back. I've written quite a bit about this over the years, and I'll attach links below. Needless to say, I'm a "stretchy fan" - if you're familiar with my writing (and riding) - so I am thrilled to see this information presented so clearly. 

Of course, I'm not saying that you should go around in a stretchy all the time - just as a way to develop strength, suppleness, "forward", and comfort for the horse - especially in the early years of training. You can start with a stretch, take a break with a stretch, finish with a stretch. Intersperse it through your whole ride.

I'm hoping you'll find some nuggets of useful information here. Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hokqRs9GbrI



From the blog archives:

How To Stretch Your Horse Over The Topline

stretchy walk

Why An Active Stretch Is Nothing Like A Neck Down

Stretchy Walk

An Awesome Over-The-Back Suppling Warm-Up At The Walk

Stretch 1

Ode To The Stretchy Trot

stretchy trot

How You Can See A Horse's Active Back - And What To Do When It Happens

active back

 

 

 

 

 

 

Horse Listening

Don’t miss a single issue of Horse Listening! If you like what you are reading, become a subscriber and receive updates when new Horse Listening articles are published!  Your email address will not be used on any other distribution list. Subscribe to Horse Listening by Email

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horse Listening The Book

Lighten Your Horse’s Forehand – From The Hind End

ctcw collage
Photos by NBanaszak Photography

I often watch riders pulling up on their reins to ask their horses to raise the head and neck. While we don't want the horse to trudge along with all their weight on their front legs, just pulling up on the rein is not the answer.

The horse might lift his neck in response to the discomfort in his mouth, but invariably, he drops it again within a few strides because a horse simply cannot lift the head and neck if the rest of the body is tending toward being on the forehand and strung out (not engaged in the hind end). He may try to please you by cranking his neck up, but that movement will only put more weight on the forelegs and tilt the horse's body more to the ground.

So how do you lighten the forehand, using the horse's "natural" biomechanics, especially in the late novice to beginning intermediate stages of training? Try this amazing transition exercise and see how your horse feels after several repetitions.

This exercise is a good one for several reasons:

First, it "tunes in" your horse to your aids, mainly because there are many things going on in succession. It also makes you stay active and balanced through the sequence of movements.

Second, it works on helping your horse bring his balance back to the hind end, while lightening the forehand.

Third, it requires more impulsion which in turn helps the horse round his back and strengthen over the topline.

Fourth, it adds "spice" to your flat work, which is nice for everyone!

Exercise

  1. Canter
  2. Trot
  3. Canter
  4. Walk

Start At Canter

Get to the canter, preferably from a walk. If a non-progressive transition is too advanced for you or your horse, do trot before the canter but make it as short as possible.

Canter several strides - let's say 20 strides. You can make it longer or shorter depending on your needs.

Transition to Trot

Once you have an active and rhythmical canter, do a downward transition to trot.

Do not stay in trot for long. Ideally, go back to the canter within three to five strides. If you can't make it that quickly, do as many strides as you need, but keep working toward three to five as a maximum.

Transition to Canter

Immediately ask for a new canter departure. If your horse slows down the canter tempo a little, accept it and slow your seat down too. You want to encourage any attempt your horse makes to "carry" rather than run. If his neck comes up, accept that too, because as he tucks his hind end under, his front end and neck will naturally elevate. Don't catch him in the mouth or pull on the reins or make him drop his head. Simply continue riding with the newly elevated forehand.

Transition to Walk

This one may be the most difficult, after all the energizing you just did. But it's well worth the effort.




Ideally, you would canter right to the walk, and then march out of the down transition in a forward flowing, active walk. However, it might not happen that way for a while until your horse understands. He might trot before the walk, or fall heavily to the forehand as he lurches to a walk.

That is ok. Just keep trying, keep feeling for and adjusting your timing of the aids, and use half-halts in preparation for each downward transition.

Continue the sequence with a new transition to canter after 3-5 walk strides, and start it all over again.

Notes

It is easier for the horse to do this exercise on a large 20-meter (or bigger) circle to begin. As you get better at it, you can do the transitions on a straight line (more difficult). If you get really good, you can do it on a circle, then on a line, then change directions to a new circle - all the while, going through the transitions.

The key to this exercise is to minimize the trot and walk sections so that the horse's weight shifts back and frees up the front end. The canter encourages the hind end while the trot and walk help to prevent the horse from falling to the forehand.

You can change the sequence to keep things fresh: canter-walk-canter-walk, canter-walk-canter-trot, canter-trot-canter-trot. It's really up to you, how your horse feels and what you want to get out of the exercise.

Keep in mind that this exercise is fairly taxing and requires a lot of muscular effort. If your horse isn't very fit, don't do too many in a row. Break it up with some walking or other low impact work before trying again, or do just a few each day for a while until your horse has a chance to build up stamina.

I like the canter-trot-canter-walk because of the walk at the end. It gives us a chance to gather ourselves up, take a breath and prepare again for the canter. I also think the walk-canter transition is very helpful in getting the horse to work from the hind end, which is always one of my major goals.

If you do try this exercise, let us know how it went in the comments below. 

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Goal Setting For The Equestrian
Click to learn more.

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the new Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

  • design your overarching goals
  • long- and short-term planning,
  • debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
  • reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
  • sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information.

The “Next Stage” In Backing Up Your Horse

back up
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

It's true!

You can do a beautiful back-up without ever releasing the reins. Soft ears and poll, engaged diagonal footsteps, straight and balanced.... Well, maybe after a lot of patient practice and with good communication between you and your horse.

I know what you're thinking: WHY wouldn't I want to release the reins if it's all that good?

Before I answer, I want to recap what I already wrote a while ago about the aids in the "Forward" Back-Up. At that time, I was writing the aids for a beginner - horse and/or rider.

 

 

1. Shorten the reins so you have contact.

2. Start with a gentle squeeze of your legs.

3. As the horse takes that forward step, he leans into the pressure of the contact and realizes that he cannot step ahead. The legs then begin the backward movement. At the same time, lighten your seat slightly to the front of the saddle.

4. Once the backward motion has started, lighten the contact (don’t throw it all away!) in order to give the horse a release.

If you want to read all the details, click here for the original article.

So you might notice that in #4, I had said to lighten the contact to give the horse a release. I wrote that while I was starting to teach my own horse, Cyrus, the back-up. He was still fairly young and we were in the beginning stages of learning to back.

In The Beginning

He would often make "mistakes" (not really, because he was trying so hard - but they weren't the answers I was looking for). He would lean forward into the bit pressure. Sometimes he walked straight out of the halt with no hint of backing up. He might raise his head high, or drop his head super low. Other times, he'd back, but his legs would be "sticky" and kind of drag backward in a 4-beat sequence.

But as soon as he was even close to backing up, I'd soften the reins to let him know he was on the right track.

Slowly but surely, he got the idea. He went through a better phase - understood that when there was a "go" aid from my seat and legs, and with contact, he should move backwards. His legs became diagonal more often, and he kept his head level most of the time. He got better at stopping and walking forward again just from my seat.

No Pull Required

Now, we've gotten to yet another level of accomplishment. He is actually the one who reminded me that I don't actually have to release the rein when he backs up. Why?

Because I don't need to put any pressure on the reins period. Not even to initiate the movement.

This is what we speak of when we say that a horse in "on the aids". He has gotten so good at the back-up that I can initiate the movement only with my seat and legs. He will continue to back as long as my seat and legs are active.

New, Invisible Aids

Here are the more advanced aids. For the onlooker from the ground, it looks as if I have done nothing. For Cyrus, my movements are so slight that I don't imbalance or interfere with him in any way (well, the best I can).

1. Shorten the reins enough to have them be straight but with (next to) no pressure. Alternatively, if you ride with longer reins - as in western riding - then hold the reins as you normally would with no extra pressure.

2. Slightly tilt your seat until you lighten the tail bone area enough to free the horse's back. Don't actually tilt your upper body - your body position should stay the same.

3. Wrap your legs around the horse and squeeze. No kicking or jabbing with the spur. Just "active" legs versus "passive".

These aids should be enough to signal your horse to back. Because he is more experienced, he will likely not lean into the bit at all - the seat and legs should be enough for him to understand that he's backing.

He was so good the other day that I didn't have to give a release of the reins, mainly because I never had to take up any pressure in the first place. He has become so much better at backing straight that my legs don't have to put any extra pressure at any point to straighten his body - same even pressure through the back-up.



And then, when I re-tilt my seat back to the normal (3-point) position, and keep my legs active, he knows to walk out of the back, and march forward - straight.

I probably don't have to tell you that it is an amazing feeling! And I also should remind you that it has taken us several years to get to this point. Although it takes time, the practice is well worth the effort, especially when you get to the "invisible aids" point.

We aren't perfect every time, of course. I imagine he won't be as light and responsive when there are distractions, or if I take him off property. But each time we make this sort of progress, we raise the bar just a little and look forward to more exciting challenges ahead.

How are you doing with your back-up journey? Have you tried invisible aids? Comment below.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the new Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

Don’t miss a single issue of Horse Listening! If you like what you are reading, become a subscriber and receive updates when new Horse Listening articles are published!  Your email address will not be used on any other distribution list. Subscribe to Horse Listening by Email

If you enjoyed these tips, you can find many more in our new book, Horse Listening – Book 3: Horses. Riding. Life. now available for purchase! 

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horse Listening Book 3

Read more valuable tips here:

#1 Rider Problem: Confusing Aids: How to get from using aids in isolation, to being more harmonious with the horse.

7 Essential Aids For An Epic Canter Transition: Your canter transition doesn't have to look like a rocket launch!

What Do Leg Aids Mean? The leg aids can give many sophisticated messages.

From A Whisper To A Scream: How Loud Should Your Aids Really Be? We repeatedly ask ourselves this question. 

What Is Contact? The First Stage: A three-part series about the development of contact.