lessons/training – Horse Listening

Intentional Rider Development – The Workshop

Yes, you love horses for how they <poof!> your stress away. You love them for how easily they can truly be therapeutic - mentally, physically and emotional. And you love them just because they are who the are - horses, sweet, goofy, spicy and everything in-between.

But if you're like me, you're a natural life-long learner. And when it comes to horses, you know you can never learn enough. You can ALWAYS take the responsibility of becoming a better partner for your horse!

I mean, none of us is perfect, and horses and riding are THE picture you would find if you looked up "imperfection" in the dictionary. Even the most advanced riders have so much to work on. I've watched Grand Prix level riders improve over the course of 10 years, still riding Grand Prix.

If you're a regular blog reader, you know I'm always harping on taking riding lessons. Even as we become comfortable with our level of skills, people like me want to continue developing - for the sake of the horse.

You can take lessons but there's an important piece that's often missing with the once a week lesson program - everything outside of the lesson. Anyone who wants to make consistent improvement in any skill area works on everything that goes into the skill: the mental, emotional and psychological aspects that support the physical skill. At the upper levels of any sport, there are professionals who help an athlete along with all those aspects.

But what can we do as regular riders? Maybe we just want to improve that trot to canter transition. Or we want to teach the horse to shift weight back to the hind end so the front legs aren't impacted as heavily as they are "au naturel".

If you read my blogs regularly, you'll also know that my mission for myself is to continually grow, develop, try new things, and step out of my comfort zone. This includes riding and ground work and relationship-building with my horse. It's all part of the same package.

So over the years, I've slowly and steadily built this online resource so other people who are also interested in self-improvement can use it for themselves. First off, I started the blog. I continue to share tons of free articles here so that everyone can take what they want from them. (I also "listen" to all your comments and thoughts - just because I love the interaction!)

Then I built the Practice Sessions, which is a membership-based platform where I go into detail - specific theory, specific aids, complete patterns and quality of movement exercises, and much more.

In 2016, I authored Goal Setting For The Equestrian: A Personal Workbook to fill a void in the horse publications of the time. I wanted something to help guide me in organizing my thoughts, remembering what I did, monitoring my and my horse's progress, and having a space to analyze and reflections. I've used several copies of the book myself over the years, as have thousands of people who have bought either the digital or paperback version.

But now, with online meetings becoming an easy and efficient way for people to meet from around the world, I can take it to the next step (yet again)!

I'm now offering an Intentional Rider Development Workshop.

This workshop is live and interactive. It's not like you will sit there and watch a bunch of slides while I talk (although there will be a handout and lots to do), but we will basically co-create our individual plans of what we want to do with our horses over this coming year.

a woman writing a business idea on a paper

Did you know that students who set goals, or have goals set FOR them, learn 250% faster than those who are told to "do their best"? Research has shown that simply,

People who set goals are more successful. They work hard, and succeed on purpose.
- Harry Che, Goals On Track.

But my Intentional Rider Development Workshop isn't JUST about setting goals, although that's a good part of it. It's also about how we can stay motivated, how we can track our progress and how we can include our horse (and all his quirks!) in our dreams.

I'd like to invite you to join me. I have two dates currently: Feb. 18th and Feb. 26th. Join me and plan for your 2023 riding season - from the comfort of your home!

Learn how you can design your way to positive and effective change - for the benefit of your horse.

It's on sale now for only $27 USD. The workshop will take approximately 90 minutes. We will gather in a small group and reflect and plan and think - about our horses! Just click on the image below for more details.

Skip Into A Straight Canter Transition (Exercise)

1. Start at F, on the left rein, already in trot. Head across on the diagonal. Canter in right lead as you pass over X.

2. Now, continue the rest of Step 1 in canter. Contrary to most patterns, we won't do a corner. Instead, start a half 20-m circle before you reach the corner, and continue in the half-circle in canter. Develop a slight bend through the half-circle.

3. Trot before you get to M and change across the diagonal again in trot.

Now, do everything in the opposite direction!

So transition to canter as you pass over X, this time in the left lead. Do the half-circle in canter and transition back to trot before F.

Repeat several times.

The theory behind "Practice Sessions" is that you need to practice in order to see benefits. So as you ride through the pattern, you might find that you need several repetitions just to get each component. THEN, once you and your horse know where you're going and what you're doing, you will be able to work on the nuances that are at the heart of this exercise.

The Details

The Corner

Use the corner to help set up for the diagonal line. As you head into the corner, a half-halt might help your horse maintain his balance as he navigates the tight turn. You might need additional "go" (two legs on) going through the corner, which will allow the horse to engage the hind legs enough to head into the diagonal with enough strength. Treat the corner as a tight bend and turn your own body into the bend the same way you expect from your horse.

The Diagonal Line

Now, the beginning of this line will give you a moment to focus on tempo and balance before the upcoming canter transition. Look for a 1-2-1-2 consistent tempo. Work on travelling in a straight line (no noodling!) and send energy again from the hind end to the front end. You might want to strengthen the trot if it feels under power. Or you might want to half-halt to contain too much energy.

The "Skip" (Transition Over X)

Prepare for the canter before X. You might need to set up a little for the right lead, because you just came off a left turn!

Look for the corner of your horse's right eye (flexion). Many horses will be still looking left at this moment. Having correct flexion will help your horse with everything from knowing where he's going next, to not wavering off the diagonal line, and finally, to knowing which lead to take.

Use a little right leg to balance the horse's right rib cage and shoulder (and prevent it from falling in). Sit balanced on your new inside seat bone (the right) and then... a little "windshield wiper" swish of your outside leg to ask for the canter depart.

The transition should be nothing more than a change of leg, in the correct lead. There should be no rushing, scrambling, head tossing, stopping, or deeking to the left or right. You know you (finally!) have a skip when nothing changes other than the gait. The line stays straight, the horse's outline stays the same, the energy just continues to flow as it was in trot. You can keep your balance because your horse was already in balance. And the horse is light on his feet!

The Half-Circle

The half-circle gives your horse time to enjoy the canter for a moment. See if you can develop the stride length (without speeding up), create a mild 20-m bend in canter, and still maintain a consistent tempo. Prepare for the down transition and trot before the next turn, so that you can trot again into the straight line.

The Final Picture

I mean, this is an easy pattern, no? (Joke!)

All you are doing is a trot figure eight with diagonal lines, and cantering from X to the end of the half-circle. 🙂

At least, the idea is to make it look easy after you've got a good handle on all the parts.

Work on developing ever smoother transitions, both up and down. Figure out where you need to do the half-halts to contain energy, and where you need additional leg to maintain energy. Where does your horse have a tendency to lean in? Which lead departure is the more difficult one? Through repetition, you can improve the weakest parts, then the next weakest, and so on.

Changing sides and gaits in this way creates quite a workout for you and your horse, teaches straight lines as well as bends, and gives you opportunity to develop the timing of your own aids as you fine tune the details.

Have fun!

If you like this sort of pattern work, take a look at my Practice Sessions Premium Membership. The Practice Sessions are a complete program beginning with exercises like the one above, designed to improve specific aspects of the horse and rider. All set up and ready to go, all you have to do is watch the video, print off the pattern PDF and head to the barn!

But there's so much more! There's quality of movement exercises, theory "Mini-Classes" on specific aids and figures, a fantastic group of riders who motivate and encourage each other, and so much more! Click here to learn more.

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the new Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

design your overarching goals
long- and short-term planning,
debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information.

Top 5 Reasons To Warm-Up and Cool-Down On The Trail – At The Walk!

You don't even need "real" trails. Walking around the perimeter of a beautiful grassy field would be just as useful - and enjoyable! If you don't have a field, then pretending that you're in a field while walking the edge of your ring can help achieve many of the following goals as well. 🙂

While I also use the trails to develop my trot and canter, I want to focus on just the walk for this article - and for the warm-up and cool-down portion of your rides. Many experts discuss the importance of walking before and after a riding workout/lesson. There is good reason for it, as the horse's joints, ligaments and tendons need to warm up before the real work, and what better way than through the low-impact, but highly effective walk?

But there's so much more to be gained by walking on the trails! Here are the top five reasons to add that walk before, after, or both before and after the "lesson" part of your rides:

5. Develop a great free walk

There's no better way to develop a truly "free" walk than heading on the trails and letting the excitement of open space and the great outdoors do the work for you - all without it feeling like work at all. Most horses walk better out on the trails, even when leaving the barn (!) than they do in a ring.

Then that walk that happens on the way home - that's the one that we aspire toward in the ring! Practice it out in the fields and bring that feeling to your walks later on during your ring rides.

4. Bonding time

Bonding takes time, and getting out on the trails gives you the time you need to really get to know your horse. What's he like if you go on the trails before your workout? How is he different after the workout? What does he look at? Can he leave the barn as well as he comes back to the barn? Can you join other horses, and then leave them?

A simple walk on the trail will give you adventures to go through and opportunities for improved communication. You'll learn things about your horse (and yourself) that you might not otherwise. See how this can improve your ring rides as well!

3. Practice spooking

This might sound a little funny but if your horse happens to be a little more spooky outside, use it as an opportunity! Go where you know your horse will feel most comfortable, and start there. If possible, go with a friend who has a "babysitter horse" who will help your horse be more comfortable. Work on going forward, walking (not trotting or running off), stopping and actually relaxing at the halt at random points along the trail (including on the way home).

If your horse spooks, find strategies to use to teach him that he can spook all he wants, as long as he doesn't rear/buck/bolt/spin or even stop responding to you because of a distraction. In fact, teach him all about how he can look around, see things, and still walk on the path, maintain his tempo, and be safe to ride.

When he gets better in his comfortable area, then go just a little further out and practice all over again!

2. The physical benefits

There's a lot to be said about muscle memory. The physiological improvements take time to develop but might be noticeable even after a few regular outings. The tendons and ligaments strengthen and limber up over time and combined with muscles relaxation (especially if you've figured out #3!), walking "well" will become a habit.

I learned to walk "well" when I first started to train for competitive trail. The experienced riders that I was fortunate to meet taught me so much about how great a walk can be. At first, you might have to encourage your horse to step out, but over time, he will easily pick up the pace himself.

What can a walk do for your horse (and you too, of course)? Done properly, it can be an awesome way to condition - and yes, it does condition, if you have a brisk pace and a long stride. Longer reins (as opposed to shorter reins that you'd need for trot/canter) can allow the horse freedom of movement. The variable footing and the slopes of the trail teach the horse to step carefully, maintain balance and even use the hind end!

1. The joy of it.

And this is the clincher. Never mind all the good things that happen physically, and all the fantastic training moments! It almost goes without saying that riding in the great outdoors is just a joy in itself. Your horse gets to see new sights and go places (exactly what he was bred to do). For us, the smell of the foliage, the critters scurrying about, the amazing oxygen... it all adds up to providing an experience that most of us who live in suburbia simply don't get anymore. Add to that the time spent with your favorite equine friend... and it really is what life is all about!

But it doesn't stop there!

If you do take the time to do the walk before your ride, you might be pleasantly surprised about how nicely your horse moves once you get back into the ring. And to top it off, you can then go straight into an active trot/canter warm-up, or into the workout section of your ride.

If you do the walk at the end of your ride, your horse will be nicely cooled down - pulse and respiration back to normal - and relaxed by the time you head into the barn.

It's a win-win any way you look at it!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises To Add Variety To Your Riding Routine

Stop wandering round and round aimlessly!

Horse Listening Book 4 is a compilation of the best patterns that have been shared on the Horse Listening Blog. The book is divided into five sections: Warm-Ups, Left and Right, Straightness, Suppleness and Collection. Each section has specific exercises and theory based on its topic.

But there's more!

There is a Special Center Section dedicated to only Transitions - something that we can all work on throughout our riding careers. And finally, scattered throughout the book are chapters that clearly explain theory, technique and skills that can help improve the featured exercises of teach Section.

Use these 20-minute exercises!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

9 Great Ways Lunging Can Add To Your Regular Riding Program

Once we get into riding our horses, ground work can easily be left to the wayside, in preference to getting on and going places and doing things. But really, the quality of your ground work is a great indicator of how well your rides are going to go, and a reliable way to work on the basics without being on your horse's back - even once in a while.

These days, people get all worked up about fancy ground work that requires years of education and practice. In contrast, lunging is accessible, easily learned, needs just basic equipment, and can be done anywhere there is good footing and room for a circle.

If you can add a lunging session even once or twice a month in place of your regular rides, you might find that your horse does so much better later on when ridden. Here are nine ways lunging can add to your regular horsing around routine. While I can only get into a brief description here, I hope you can use these ideas with a little help from a mentor or instructor.

1. Movement without the rider.

First off, lunging allows the horse the opportunity to move freely without the weight (and influence/interference?) of a rider. There are many times in a horse's riding career when he will actually benefit from not being ridden, and rather, be allowed to move on his own.

When you feel that your horse will benefit from a little walk/trot/canter, bring out the lunge line, even if you think you'll get on afterward.

2. Controlled spiciness!

While some people let horses run loose in the arena to get their "heebie-jeebies" out, there may be times when it's in the horse's best interests to NOT get worked up or overly romping and lunging is a great way to moderate the amount of spiciness while still having the opportunity to move actively.

3. "Legging up" after a long winter's break.

I make it a rule for myself to include more lunging after a lay-off, just to let the horse find his own strength, balance and suppleness before I ever get on. I might stick to lunging only for a number of sessions, then lunging for a shorter time before riding, and then finally, riding without any lunging at all.

The horse will benefit from the straight-forward exercise, get used to moving again, and get a little huffing and puffing workout. You'll also notice that he's much better to ride after the lunging sessions than if you were to just plop on and try to get him going.

4. Evaluation.

Use lunging any time you feel you need to evaluate the horse's movement, or condition. There's a lot of information that can be gained from observing the horse as he works in each gait. You might want to watch a horse move on the lunge for a pre-purchase exam, or to learn more about his particular movement, or to assess a physical problem.

5. Transition workout.

Transitions are the best, even WITHOUT the rider! Work on the quality of both the up and down transitions, do progressive and non-progressive transitions, and make sure you do them both ways. Ask for transitions at random times, don't stay in one gait too long (or do the opposite and stay longer than usual, just to develop stamina), and get this one - you can even work on transitions within each gait, just to work the horse's hind end!

6. Communication/responsiveness to the person on the ground.

It goes without saying that the more you work together from the ground, the better your communication is going to be. You'll have to learn enough voice and body cues to get your horse to do all the things we're talking about - from the middle of the circle!

Over time, all the body language will become second nature to both of you. There is such a thing as "great" lunging.

7. (Riderless) hind end striding under/half-halts.

Now we can get more into the training aspects of lunging. One of the things you can work on from the ground is getting your horse to reach underneath better with the hind legs, and respond to half-halts from the rein. Better yet - you get to be on the ground where you are stable, and watch the effect your aids are having!

Use the lunge whip lifted upwards to ask for "forward" and the lunge line attached to a "bit

bit converter lunging horse — Bit converter for lunging

converter" to have even pressure on both sides of the bit. Then ask the horse to move forward, and "catch" the horse with the lunge line and ask the horse to half-halt. Teach the horse to NOT run faster with a go cue, and rather, become more powerful in the gait. See if you can influence the quality of the gait right there from the middle of the circle.

8. Moving straight on the circle.

We talk about this all the time when riding, so why not start from the ground? Add a pair of side reins to help keep the shoulders of the horse straight, even while moving on the circle. Make sure they are even length so that the horse can use both sides of his body evenly.

Some horses will bulge one shoulder or the other, even with side reins. In this case, ask the horse for more impulsion (#7, above), and see if you can get him to straighten out with that extra energy. Work the hind end to straighten out the front end.

9. Rounding over the back/stretching to the bit.

This one takes a little more explanation than I can give here, but it can be done. Once again, you can play with energy from the hind end, sent forward so that the horse learns to reach to the bit. If the side reins are long enough and allow the horse some room (not too long), you can teach the horse to stretch in a gait, right on the lunge line. I have a great demonstration of this in one of my Ground Work Sessions in my Practice Sessions group. Click here to learn more about the Practice Sessions.

Now don't get me wrong. I'm not saying that you should go out and lunge day after day, hour after hour. In fact, too much lunging can be detrimental to the horse's tendons and legs. But adding lunging into your regular riding and training routine can be of great benefit to you - and your horse!

Horse Listening Book Collection - beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands! Click on the image for more information.

Have you ever wished your horseback riding lessons could come with a user manual? Do you feel that you could serve your horses better as a rider if you only know how and what to do? From the writer of the popular Horse Listening blog comes a new collection of one of the most enjoyable and rewarding activities of all time: horseback riding.

Reader Review for Horse Listening – The Book

“I love Kathy’s blog so I knew that I wanted her book as soon as it came out! I find myself rereading different sections as I am in different “phases” of my riding. I highly recommend this read for any equine enthusiast!” – Cdh, Amazon Five Star Review

Click here to learn more.

A Stretch and Strengthen Canter Exercise

Need some "legging up" in canter?

Working in canter for an extended period of time (let's say, around 5 minutes) has many benefits, and if you want to know why, read the article that I wrote here. The exercise below is an awesome way to develop (you and) your horse's conditioning, work on suppling the horse over the back in canter, play around with balance and hind end engagement, and just work toward something as simple as maintaining a steady tempo.

This exercise is also good if you find that your horse often drops his back (and "giraffe necks") when you transition to canter, or during the canter. We want to teach the horse to loosen through the back and allow it to move while in canter.

You will use the whole arena for this, with circles at A and C. Try to do this in an easy pace - not too fast, not too slow. You can always build up the horse's impulsion as he settles and begins to use himself better, without adding speed to it. The pattern sounds like it isn't much work, but there's quite a lot going on when you go around a few times and let it work you and your horse.

Start at A. Canter on the right rein.

1. 20-m circle

Start with an easy, softly stretching 20-m circle. Think of it as a half-stretch, so not really stretching down as you would for say, a 2nd level dressage test. But do make it a stretch, so that your horse can carry his head a little lower than usual, and stretch through the back a little more than usual.

Ride in half-seat yourself, and take most of your weight off the horse's back.

Keep a mild 20-m bend, keeping your horse on a large circle but watching the outside shoulder. Keep the shoulder straight and allow the bend to happen through the body, not just through the neck.

2. 10-m circle

When you get back to A, do another circle, this time much smaller. Make it a 10-m circle, with more bend, and this time, sit into the saddle and bring the horse up into a nice uphill outline. This circle requires more collection, so keep the canter active and strong but add in the deeper 10-m bend.

3. Canter on up the long side of the rail

After the 10-m circle, head into the corner and then go straight up along the rail. Go back to the half-seat, and ask your horse for the small stretch again, this time on the straight rail. The long side of the ring should allow you plenty of time to strengthen the canter (not speed up, though) and develop a nice, even tempo and stride length.

Strengthen: If your horse feels good, isn't pulling down on the reins, and feels like he has good balance, ask for a little longer stride and a little more impulsion. Don't let the reins go longer and make sure you ease the horse into the bigger movement. (If your horse does pull down on the reins, just sit up a little and ease up on the canter, or even do a down transition to trot, and then canter on again. We want the horse to strengthen the canter, but not to end up on the forehand. So use trot transitions to bring the horse into balance again, as needed.)

You're feeling for a bouncier, more trampoline-y canter. You should also feel like you spend more time in the air than on the ground.

4. 20-m circle

Go through the next corner and back to a 20-m circle at C. Stay in the half-seat for the 20-m circle, and keep the horse in the mild stretch. The difference between the stretch here and on the rail is that you have to re-establish a bend (even though it's just a mild bend) so you're also working on the lateral suppleness on this circle.

5. 10-m circle

Now do a 10-m circle at C. Sit, prepare for the bend as you come back to C, and then bring the horse uphill again in his outline. Use this circle to let your horse do a little "carrying", have a higher and shorter outline, and use his now more active hind end to take some weight off the forehand.

6. Canter down the long side of the rail

Then ease out of the 10-m circle through the corner and down the next rail in the half-stretch (for him) and half-seat (for you) position again.

And repeat! If you want, you can do this pattern several times in a row one way, and then take a walk break, and do it several times the other way.

You can also do the whole thing in walk and trot, either as a warm-up or as a cool-down. The concept of stretching and then shortening the back is a great way to supple and strengthen the horse's back and hind end in all gaits.

If you like this sort of pattern work, join my Practice Sessions Premium Membership. The Practice Sessions are a complete program beginning with exercises like the one above, designed to improve specific aspects of the horse and rider. All set up and ready to go, all you have to do is watch the video, print off the pattern PDF and head to the barn!

Horse Listening Book Collection - beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands! Click on the image for more information.

Goal Setting For The Equestrian - A Personal Workbook

Included in the book:

design your overarching goals

long- and short-term planning,

debrief your special events such as clinics or shows

reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals

sample goals and pages

Click here for more information.

An Easy Way To Start Counter Canter

You're doing great at the canter! Your horse is able to strike off at will, maintain a strong but balanced canter, stay straight and transition down. You can pick and choose which lead you want. You can maintain a steady, even contact in canter, and you can even improve your "connection" by asking the horse to move forward even while in canter!

Just when you think you've finally got it all down, you discover that it's time for something new - the "counter" canter! Since when is it ok to canter in the wrong lead?!

Well, as you likely know, the "wrong" lead and the counter canter are different in two distinct ways.

First, the wrong lead is "wrong" because you asked for the true lead and got the opposite answer! So in fact, it was an incorrect response to possibly incorrect aids.

Second, the wrong lead will likely be imbalanced. The horse possibly drifted to the outside from the shoulder, or from the hip. The body is probably not bent in the direction of the lead. And so the horse is moving along at a choppy three-beat gait, which looks and sounds like a counter canter, but is brought on by lack of strength or balance.

While counter canter and the "wrong" lead are one and the same, the way you arrive to each is the distinguishing factor.

So how can you start riding a counter canter, in a way that doesn't disrupt the horse's balance too much, doesn't put too much mental strain on the horse, and allows for continued forward movement, all at the same time?

The "Loop"

The loop is a standard dressage figure, used often in trot and canter. The trick to the loop is that it starts with one bend, changes to the other bend, and then ends in the original bend - all along one rail length!

You can start the loop in trot first, until you have a good understanding of what you need to do.

In dressage tests, the middle of the loop is placed at X, which requires the horse to do a fairly steep diagonal line (the green dotted line in the image). But when first training the loop, I like to start with the "shallow" loop (pictured here in red), mostly because it does not require as much engagement and left-to-right suppleness.

The midpoint of the shallow loop lands on the quarter line. The shallow path is usually easier for horses or riders that have not tried the loop before. Over time, I make the loop deeper until we can use X as the midpoint.

After you've made progress at the trot, you can start working in the canter. The idea is that you start in the true lead (left lead at F), and travel off the rail toward X, stay in the same lead (counter canter) as you head back to the rail, and finally end up in the original balance at M, heading now toward the short side of the arena.

The relative straightness of the line is the reason why this exercise is a fairly simple way to introduce counter canter. The straightness helps the horse maintain almost the same amount of power in the hind end, and there are only a few strides of actual counter canter before the horse goes back into the true bend.

Now, I just mentioned that you want to change bends in trot when you go over the midpoint of the loop. So if you started with a left bend, you'd switch to the right bend over the midpoint.

In canter, it will be different, because in general, you will stay in a mild left bend to help the horse to keep his left lead through the counter canter section. As you get better at it, you can "approach" straightness, but in general, we stay in the same bend throughout the loop.

The Aids

Because you're essentially just travelling in canter along a series of bends, the aids are common to the turn aids:

Inside leg at the girth (to prevent the shoulders from falling in)

Outside leg behind the girth (to prevent the hips from swinging out)

Inside rein slightly open

Outside neck rein, or direct rein for half-halts and straightening the outside shoulder

Weight is on the inside seat bone

Rider's shoulders are parallel to the horse's shoulders

In The Beginning

When you first start a horse on the loop in canter, you might get two results.

The horse might break stride at the midpoint, where the change of balance occurs. In this case, just balance the trot, and canter again as soon as you can. The next time through, try to ask for more engagement with your outside leg to help keep the horse's outside hind leg active.
The horse might do a flying change at the midpoint. Many horses learn to do flying changes based on balance changes, and this is what the loop will help you to overcome. You want to teach the horse to respond to the aids rather than just switch leads every time he changes direction. So if your horse changes leads, calmly transition to trot, and canter off in the left lead again.

In both cases, consider making your loop even more shallow, like the blue loop in the diagram. This might help your horse stay in better balance and not feel like he has to make that flying change.

Well, there is so much more to say about the counter canter! But this might give you a solid starting point that will help you begin to explore all that there is to learn about canter, and the canter leads. Enjoy!

Buy Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Personally signed books available! Just send me a message.

Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?

By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

- the rider’s aids

- the use of the seat

- the half-halt

- accurate turns and circles

- transitions

- horse ownership and horse care

- goal setting for the rider

- rein lameness

… and much more!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

The Three Basic Rein Aids Explained

The Open Rein — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Have you ever been told to use a rein aid but didn't know what it was or how to use it?

When you're riding (especially in a lesson), there might be little time to explain all the nuances of a particular skill in movement. By the time the instructor explains the details, the horse has already moved from one end of the arena to the other, and likely, a completely different skill is needed by that time!

It can be very helpful to know the different rein aids and how to apply them so that you can respond as quickly as possible in the given situation. Also, it helps to know how to apply the rein aids while riding on your own, so that you use the most useful aid at the best time.

So which rein is which, and why should you use which, when? 🙂

1. Open Rein

This rein is generally the first rein a rider learns to use. It's fairly simple to do and the result is instant, so it's easy to teach and gives the rider a sense of control. It is also the first rein aid to teach a young horse, for basically the same reasons. However, it is a rein aid that can be used right through to the highest levels of riding, exactly because it is a basic rein aid that can help pretty much every movement, no matter how complicated or athletic.

It's simple. Just open the rein by taking it away from the neck. I like to think that it creates a small space between the rein and the neck - say about 1"-3" off the neck. Your elbow stays on the body while the forearm opens to the side.

The open rein is usually used to the inside of the movement (so, if you're tracking right, you use the inside rein) but it can also occasionally be used on the outside to help the outside shoulder move more toward the outside.

Purpose

The open rein is useful for two purposes.

The first is that it turns the horse's head (flexion) and neck in the direction of opening, and thus, the horse generally follows the rein and turns in that direction.

The second, which is more complex, is used with a leg aid. The inside leg applies pressure to ask the horse to shift his weight to the outside by encouraging the horse's inside shoulder to step away, which then creates the open rein biomechanically. This type of open rein is often used to keep flexion while in a leg yield.

2. Direct Rein

The direct rein is exactly as it sounds: direct. With your elbows on your body, hold the rein so that it creates a straight line to the mouth. Then, apply pressure toward your hip on the same side as the hand.

Be sure to NOT pull your elbow back off your body. You don't really want to actually pull the rein back. You just want to create the feeling of the pressure, or contact, often done in conjunction with the rest of the aids.

Purpose

This rein is often used to stop the horse. When you apply even pressure on both reins, the horse should respond by slowing or stopping the legs, depending on how you use the rest of your aids (legs, weight, back).

It is also used for the infamous half-halt. So while you are using the "resist" action in the lower back for the half-halt, the reins are used with a direct action (toward the hips) to support the half-halt.

A single direct rein on the inside can also be the creator of "flexion", which is when the horse turns his head just enough that you can see the corner of the eye looking in the direction of the movement.

3. Neck Rein

The neck rein can be confusing until you have a really good understanding of what it does and how to apply it.

This rein is placed on the outside of the neck. The horse feels the rein, and steps away from it. So for example, the left rein placed literally on the left side of the neck causes the horse to move right.

This rein is always used on the outside of the neck, on the opposite side of the movement.

Purpose

The neck rein is a very powerful rein.

It acts as the initiator of the turn: left rein on the neck means turn right.

It can also stop the outside shoulder from drifting out. This can be especially useful when a horse "bulges" the outside shoulder and drifts out or steps away from the intended direction.

In a similar manner, it can also straighten the horse's body by encouraging the outside shoulder to stay "in the body" rather than bulging outward.

OK.

There are, of course, other rein aids that are taught for different purposes. But it helps a lot to know these three basic rein aids because you can build on these as you become more experienced and subtle in your skills.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From Horse Listening, The Book:

"There are many reasons why we enjoy riding horses. Maybe one of the most appealing facets of riding is the sense of freedom: freedom from our own limitations, freedom from gravity, freedom to (literally) roam the Earth. Time stands still while we have the privilege of feeling movement from the back of our four-legged friend.

Riding gives us the place to just be.

Of course, there are other purposes too. Some of us revel in the challenge of learning the skills required to becoming a good team member of this unlikely duo. Riding is like no other sport or recreational pursuit simply because of the equine partner that must not only carry us, but also do so effortlessly and gracefully. As we develop our specific skill sets, we also grow as human beings in character, emotional maturity and mental acuity.

But there is one other motivation that drives some of us to persevere in the never-ending learning process that is horseback riding: improving the horse. As your own skills develop, you begin to realize that not only can you meet your own needs through riding, but also that you can even become an instrument of benefit for the horse."

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

5 Ways to A Spook – And What To Do When It Happens

Let's take a riding break and do a little analysis for a moment.

What happens during the spook? It helps to examine how the horse spooks, so that we can have a plan.

Keep in mind that all these training tips should ideally be done when the horse isn't spooking, so that he is calm, cool and able to respond and learn. Then when the spook situation happens, you will be relying on all that good practice to come through even while the horse is emotional.

1. Stopping every other stride

This one is a classic. The horse sees something from the corner of his eye, and he stops. Takes a long look. Then... it's hard to know what's going to happen. Maybe a lurch forward to another stop. Or maybe a deek sideways away from the offending object.

In this case, you have to teach the horse to move forward - under all (most?) circumstances. Practice getting a strong response to your leg aids in areas that are not threatening to your horse. Then it would help if you can anticipate the spook, and before he stops his feet, urge him onward.

You might want to bend him away from the scary object, so that he looks to a calmer space in the arena rather that to the scary places. But you want to teach the horse to "leak" his energy out forward, through the reins, straight ahead. (Remember the old "keep the horse between your reins and your legs"? This is when it's really helpful!)

2. "Running" through the reins

We call it running when the horse goes faster faster, or even if the horse stays at one speed but doesn't stop when the rider applies the aids. The horse might go straight, but it also happens sideways - as in, drifting out or falling in through the shoulders.

In this case, the horse doesn't stop and does the opposite: keeps those legs moving and going until he gets as far as possible away from the scary object. This can be as disconcerting as the horse that stops hard, because you have to not only stay with the horse, but ride through imbalances and sudden changes of direction.

This problem can be improved by training your horse to respond to your rein and leg aids. Calm the horse down (maybe walk when he wants to trot), keep him "underpower" (for example, jog even if you would normally trot), maintain the same rein length (don't let the rein get longer during the melee), maintain consistent aids. You have to be that ultimate active rider to make a difference.

It's important that you do this training when the horse is calm and able to learn. It might take numerous repetitions until your horse responds to your leg and rein aids "automatically" (without thinking). Once that happens, you might find that the horse is much more responsive even in high fear situations.

3. Always spooks in that one area

Some horses get scared in a certain area, or under certain conditions, and then seem to behave the exact same way every time they pass that area or are exposed to the same conditions. It's almost like they learned to spook once, and so they do it again and again regardless of the (lack of) gravity of the situation. As we know, horses have very long memories - especially of bad events!

In this case, try to ease their fear (or reactivity) by working close to that area (or under those conditions), but not so close that the horse wants to spook.

So let's say there's a corner that your horse always wants to avoid, at all costs. Don't take the horse there. In fact, do the opposite! Show your horse that he can trust you by working as near to the area as you can without making him anxious. So stay in a comfort zone area, but do keep riding and working.

Then slowly, work closer and closer to and through the corner (don't actually point him into the scary spot). Let your horse be your guide. If he becomes more agitated, go a little further away. Keep him where he is responsive and breathing and able to be calm. Then one time, drift a little closer to the scary corner and see how it goes.

It might take a month or longer to gain your horse's responsiveness and trust, especially if he has completely blueprinted the spook in that area. But each time he feels calmer about the scary situation, you have made progress.

4. Bends toward the scary object

This is sort of like #2, because while the horse bends all the way around to see the object, he is also dropping the opposite shoulder and getting ready to move in that direction. It can become a vicious cycle: the horse looks at the scary object, moves away, looks again, moves away more....

Like #2, your job will be to anticipate the coming spook and work on getting the horse to bend away from the scary object. Keep the horse moving, keep the shoulders "in the body" and bend away from the object. Once the horse can take his eyes off the object, he might settle down and know that he is safe with you as the rider. The key here is to build understanding and responsiveness under calm conditions, and then develop the same during the spook.

5. YOU spooking!

I had to add this one too. So many times, we become ingrained in our own behavior when we think the horse is about to spook. If it's happened to you time and again, your body takes over and begins to anticipate the spook by "assuming the position", so to speak.

You think the horse is going to run, or turn toward the object. You lean forward, or even turn to the object yourself! Then the horse REALLY thinks he has something to be afraid of!

This is where self-awareness comes in (and possibly lessons too). If you can feel your body tightening, or maybe starting to point to the spook object, you can change what you're about to do. Loosen through your joints on purpose. Turn you core completely away from the object. Use your inside leg to prevent the horse from falling in. Count 1-2-1-2 (like I do) and focus on each and every step.

Self-awareness, and then self-control, go a long way to teaching your horse that there is nothing to be worried about. If your body stays calm and contained, there's a much better chance that your horse will mirror you!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the book:

"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?

We all want our horses to improve in their athletic

development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....

But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.

Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.

Or not."

Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.

The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:

happier in his body

happier in his "work"

better balanced all-around

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horses. Riding. Life.

Category: lessons/training

Intentional Rider Development – The Workshop

Skip Into A Straight Canter Transition (Exercise)

Top 5 Reasons To Warm-Up and Cool-Down On The Trail – At The Walk!

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises To Add Variety To Your Riding Routine

9 Great Ways Lunging Can Add To Your Regular Riding Program

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Horse Listening Book Collection - beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands! Click on the image for more information.

A Stretch and Strengthen Canter Exercise

Horse Listening Book Collection - beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands! Click on the image for more information.

An Easy Way To Start Counter Canter

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

The Three Basic Rein Aids Explained

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

5 Ways to A Spook – And What To Do When It Happens

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding