lessons/training – Page 17

Frame, Round or Collection?

Palgrave-2 — Round - note the deep stepping hind legs, lightly lifted back, and general forward flow to the movement.

Which shall it be? Do you know the difference, and in a pinch, would you be able to identify it in a moving horse? Better yet, can you feel the difference when you are riding?

We use these words all the time. We "frame" our horse, we get him to "round" and we regularly work on "collection". But often, although we're sure we are working on something, we don't really know what to call it. We throw the words around randomly, seeking to describe the feeling we know exists, but not knowing the nuances between the three.

To be perfectly honest, many of our horses are rarely, if ever, collected.

(Click here to tweet that if you agree.)

These words are not interchangeable.

The three terms are distinct in meaning, appearance and feel. Knowing the difference between them helps you to distinguish between the level of engagement your horse is working at.

The "Frame"

Simply put, a horse is "framed up" when it is travelling in a pre-determined outline.

There may be the high frame, which essentially means that the neck is higher than the withers, and there may be the level frame, where the neck is at the height of the withers. In either case, the frame is usually being held in place by rein action (the hands). In comparison to no frame at all, riding in a frame might feel more comfortable and easier on both the rider and the horse.

The dilemma is that regardless of the placement of the head and neck, the back continues to be hollow and the hind end is disengaged. The horse moves on the forehand. The hind legs do not track up to the front footprints, and the front legs stride larger than the hind legs. Often, this body position is held in place by the hands. There is little or no release of the reins and the frame is being protected by a backward pressure that traps the horse's front end and restricts the hind end.

The best giveaway to a frame is that the horse falls out of the frame - either farther forward on the forehand, or the head and neck arches up and the back hollows even more. The claim to fame of the frame is that it does not maintain itself without either constant pressure from the hands, or momentary "jerks" on the mouth to communicate to the horse that it should keep its posture in place.

"Round"

A horse travels "round" if there is a certain level of engagement from the hind end. The hind legs reach further forward underneath the body, and the hind stride length approaches the same distance as the front legs. Due to this reach, the hind end dips down slightly while the front end levels out or rises slightly higher than the withers. A round horse is bearing its weight more on the hind end, freeing up the front end to be more expressive and fluid. The rider's weight is carried more evenly with a mildly lifted back.

A release of the reins allows the horse to stride "forward" toward the contact. There is a better sense of freedom in movement than in the framed up horse. To be round, the horse must be "on the bit" (go here for an excellent description),"on the aids" and moving with better "connection."

"Collection"

Typically, horses in collection move up and down more than forward, so collection is desired especially in events such as reining, western trail and dressage.

In dressage, collection is the highest level of training for the horse. In other words, travelling while collected is difficult and requires a sophisticated level of balance, mental/emotional control, and understanding from the horse. The collected horse has developed the strength to tilt the haunches so the hind legs are far underneath the body, and the front end (head and neck included) are at the highest point. The horse moves in an "uphill" manner.

Collection is achieved primarily by the seat and legs. The hands are the last to act, and ideally, serve to "catch and recycle" the energy produced by the seat and legs. The horse is not kept in place - the collected appearance is the result of the activity of the hind end. Let go of both reins, and the horse should stay in collection for several strides.

"Collection itself, however, is a state attained only after many years of patient, systematic, gymnastic work, which is made evident in a shorter, higher, rounder, more active stride. It is to be attained solely through greater balancing of the horse on the hindquarters, based on forward impulse - and not merely by shortening up the horse from the front. The horse's motion must remain forward, fluid, and energetic, and must always continue to show the correct footfall in all gaits. The hallmark of true collection is a clear lowering of the croup, brought about by the deeply bent, engaged haunches that carry more weight." (Herbermann, 1999, p.67)

To be perfectly honest, many of our horses are rarely, if ever, collected. Much of the time, we are working in a degree of roundness - whether more or less round - rather than in collection.

All this talk begs the question:

Why bother?

That shall be a topic for another day!

Reference:

Herbermann, E., (1999). Dressage Formula, Third Ed., J.A.Allen, London. p.67

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If you enjoyed the above post, you might also like:

From A Whisper to A Scream: How Loud Should Your Aids Really Be? Should we be “loud” in our aids, or should we be working as softly as we can in hopes that our horse can respond to lighter and more refined aids?

When Do You Start Riding Your Horse? This question was being posed to me by a very respected and horse-wise mentor.

Do You Make This Timing Mistake When Riding Your Horse? The timing of the aids has to do with everything.

When “Good Enough” Just Isn’t Good Enough In Horseback Riding: Hate to tell you this, but you DO have to get out of your own back yard!

Top 10 Ways to Reinforce Your Horse’s Correct Responses

reward — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

As riders, we need to look for any excuse to celebrate our horse's achievements. Good riders are forever thankful for their equine's efforts as they push further stronger deeper and reach new heights. A happy horse is a willing partner, and many horses will give everything they have if they feel your acknowledgement and encouragement.

Don't fool yourself.

Your horse knows exactly how you're feeling during the ride. They can "mind read" (more like body read) and know precisely when you are frustrated, upset, angry and conversely, when you are relaxed, forgiving, joyful and ecstatic. We all know that positive feedback is as powerful a way to communicate as any other, and likely more appreciated by your four-legged friend.

Rewarding your horse doesn't have to be done on the ground with a treat in hand. In fact, encouragement received under saddle is more immediate and fulfilling than anything that is done on the ground after you ride. The key is to identify the right time to communicate your "yes", and to know how to do it in movement.

So, without further discourse, here are ten simple ways to let your horse know he is on the right track.

10. Think, "Yay/Wow/Great/Fantastic" or whatever you feel at that moment, and be convinced that your horse can read your mind. Even though horses can't read minds, they can definitely read the involuntary messages your body sends through your seat, legs and hands - and they know if the thought was positive or negative. So yes, just thinking something nice will transfer seamlessly into your horse's mind.

9. Say a soft, low "good" under your breath so only he can hear it. You don't have to share your thank-you with the whole world; just say it loud enough for the horse's ears to flick back in your direction.

8. Pet your horse, but DON'T smack him! Somewhere along the line, people thought smacking a horse was a good thing, and would be interpreted as such by the horse - it must be, since the horse is so big and strong, right? Well, now we know that the horse's skin is even more sensitive than human skin. It stands to reason that a smack feels like a smack, and a pat or rub is a much more appreciated method.

7. Better yet, slightly release your inside rein while you pet your horse with your inside hand, in rhythm with the stride. Can you rub your belly and chew gum at the same time? Then this one is for you!

While your horse is in motion, reach down lightly (but don't lean too far forward as you will change the horse's balance), and move your hand along the horse's neck in a forward/back movement, preferably in rhythm with the horse's head bob. Keep holding the same rein length through the petting action. In canter, this will release the inside rein while the neck is reaching forward/down, and then the contact will be gently taken up again by the time the neck comes back/up again.

The idea is not to interfere with the horse's movement, but to give a gentle inside rein release while petting the horse.

6. Gently (very small movements) open and close your elbows in synch with the horse's body movements - blend in with him so that he has freedom to swing his head and neck into the movement. You can give through both your elbows in order to move the hands and bit along with the horse. This will create a moment of harmony - no restriction, no instruction, no comment. Just follow along and encourage the horse to take a bolder forward stride thanks to less "stop" from the bit.

5. Move a little bigger into the movement of the horse. You always have the option of "releasing" with your seat: let your lower back become loose and supple and follow along in an encouraging, enthusiastic manner - your horse will love the freedom in his back and just might reach further underneath himself with the hind legs in response.

4. Hold your rein length but give a gentle half halt with an ending forward release so your horse can stretch forward into the contact. In this manner, you can create a small space ahead of the horse that he can reach toward. If done diplomatically, a horse always appreciates feeling the slight freedom of extra space to move forward into.

3. Stop asking for anything. Sometimes, it is good enough to stop everything and just let the horse go along for a few strides. Beware - "stopping" doesn't mean that you suddenly drop everything and become a lumpy bumpy bag of jelly that causes the horse to fall to his knees! You can "stop" while maintaining the status quo - keep doing what you were doing, hold yourself strong and fluid, but just refrain from asking for anything more for the time being.

2. Accept his idea. Often, a horse will take initiative and offer something that you didn't ask for. Instead of correcting or changing what he did, enjoy the "freebie" and just ride along for a moment. You can get back to your topic in a few strides, but teaching the horse to take initiative, especially in the early stages or when the horse is young, can go far to developing a great rider/horse rapport in the long run.

1. Do your horse's favourite movement. All horses have preferred movements that get them all excited! For example, my gelding loves the stretchy trot or canter - he snorts and reaches and the ears flick forward. My mare gets jazzed up with the flying change - again, rambunctious snorts, perky ears, and expression in her face and overall body outline. Find out what your horse's favourite movement is, and then do it at the end of a session or after something difficult!

***

The sooner you can reinforce your horse's actions, the sooner he will connect the reward to the desired behaviour. Be light, quick and to the point. Then, go onto the next part of your ride. Look for more to celebrate as you transition into the next movement.

Most importantly, reward quickly and often.

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Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?

By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

- the rider’s aids

- the use of the seat

- the half-halt

- accurate turns and circles

- transitions

- horse ownership and horse care

- goal setting for the rider

- rein lameness

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Demystifying “Contact” in Horseback Riding

Sometimes it feels like the word "contact" has other-worldly connotations. Is it related to celestial retrogrades, or long-told mythical verbal traditions, or is it a yogic position unreachable by the average equine enthusiast?

Simply put, it is a "must learn" skill that every horseback rider needs in their toolbox.

In fact, "contact" as it relates to horse riding is a lot less mystifying than it might initially appear. It is true that "one never arrives" to the perfect contact, and you can devote a lifetime to developing the ultimate level of contact between you and your horse.

But to think that correct and effective contact is something out of the reach of the average rider is simply not true.

Picture This

handshake by Aidan Jones — Handshake by Aidan Jones

Developing contact with your horse is very much like shaking hands with a person. You reach for the person's hand and the other person reaches for yours. You close fingers relatively gently (we are not considering those strong shake-your-shoulder-off aggressive shakes!) around each other's hand and you mutually lift and drop your hands in the shake.

In general, it feels nice to shake someone's hand. You both show a willingness to meet in the middle and share a physical bond that connects you together.

Here's another picture: We've all seen partners in figure skating reach for each other's grasp as if by some mutually-shared secret that is known only to them. As they skate along, their "contact" changes from hand to hand, forward to backward, always meeting at a designated point, never appearing forced or contrived. We see the results - almost imperceptible communication that enables both partners to use each other's talents to bring out the best in each other. You could imagine a similar situation between ballroom dancers, and other such activities.

And so it should be with a horse.

To initiate contact, you must shorten the reins. Don't let anyone tell you that it is "cruel" to shorten the reins on a horse. In fact, intermittently picking up and dropping the contact on the bit might actually cause discomfort for the horse.

So... shorten the reins but don't pull! The trouble that many riders get into with contact is that they think that short reins means pulling reins. This is far from the truth.

Once you have achieved a useful rein length that allows you to hold the bit in the horse's mouth, your next job is to keep that contact steady. This is where it gets tricky - take up contact, and then keep it there (prerequisite: strong core muscles and hands that are independent of the seat so they can respond to the horse's needs rather than using the mouth for balance).

Next, invite the horse to reach forward into the contact. This is the part of the "handshake" where the horse goes to meet you. The trick here is that you have to create room within the contact for the horse to literally reach slightly forward with the whole body (including but not limited to the head and neck) to meet your hands at the end of the bit.

Initiate the horse's reach by asking for more impulsion - from your legs and seat - and then allowing the energy over the horse's back and into your hands. Create a millimeter of space (don't drop the reins!!) for your horse to reach toward. If you feel your horse surge forward into a rounder body outline (creating a "lifted back" to carry you with), you know you're on the right track!

What do you do when you have contact?

Maintain it and then try something new!

Work toward getting your horse "on the bit". You might want to ask the horse to reach further underneath itself for more collection. You might want the horse to transition into another gait. Maybe you want a bend, or a counterbend. In any case, you will always be working toward promoting a better weight bearing position for your horse while you are on his back.

The point is that without contact, you will always surprise your horse into the new movement, you will likely cause discomfort or even pain in the horse's mouth, and there will often be inconsistencies in your communication.

One thing to remember is that the quality of your contact can always be improved. We do always seek "better" contact, developing in the softness, lightness, gentleness and effectiveness of the touch. Each new circumstance requires a small adjustment to the quality and level of the contact, and each horse has different requirements and tolerances.

However, one thing remains true: a horse in good contact is a happy horse! And isn't that what we are all aiming for?

Note: Different disciplines require different "styles" of contact (i.e. western riding using curb bits) but there is nevertheless always a minimum level of contact that enables the horse to work at its optimum.

How do you describe "contact"?

From A Whisper To A Scream: How loud should your aids really be?

We ask ourselves this question repeatedly. Should we be "loud" in our aids, or should we be working as softly as we can in hopes that our horse can respond to lighter and more refined aids?

The answer is not simple. To determine the strength level of your aids, you need to know several factors that go into making your decision:

What is the educational level of the horse? If you are riding a young or fairly inexperienced horse, the horse will need a lot more "support" from you than a more mature and developed horse.

You need to, in effect, be there for him. He will likely be less balanced and responsive than you would like, and your aids will need to be strong and secure enough to clearly explain to him what you want. You do not need to be "punishing", but the amount of strength you put into the movements may be more than you think you should be using.

How sensitive is your horse? The sensitive horses generally do not do well with a "shouting" aid. They are the ones that often resist the aids. They get tense, unresponsive, or outright demonstrate their displeasure through "disobedience" such as kicking out, bucking or even head shaking.

For this type of horse, you really need to "zone in" to your own body language and be absolutely clear on your expectations. Being sensitive, your horse might be over-reactive to your aids in the first place, so you have to be sure to not be too overbearing yet absolutely clear so as not to confuse. Be careful to be firm and clear, but at the same time, look for every excuse you can to be light and respectful. The trick is that you need to be so balanced as to be "on" with your aids all the time without increasing the volume. Sensitive horses do best when there is consistency and clarity. This can be very challenging for a rider.

Analyze your horse's conformation. Believe it or not, your horse's conformation plays a large part in the use of your aids. If your horse is built "downhill", he will probably always have difficulty lifting up through the forehand, and will likely always need support from your aids to be able to maintain his balance in a way that keeps him moving correctly and staying sound through the years. If you are riding a thicker, larger horse, chances are, you might need to be "louder" in your aids to get the same results that you would from a smaller horse. If the horse is built for his job, you might be amazed at how light you can be to get phenomenal movement.

Analyze your horse's previous training. If you are riding the horse after someone else has ridden him, you may have to adjust your aids to the level that the horse is expecting, or blueprinted at, by the previous rider. You might start with the level that is sufficient to be clear enough for the horse and work toward the lighter level that you want to achieve.

How does your horse feel today? Like people, horses change moods and levels of inspiration from one day to the next. On a windy, fresh day, your horse might be enthusiastic and even a touch over-excited. On a hot, humid day, your horse may not be so inspired and would rather be having a sun bath than working in the heat. In each case, you will need to adjust the strength of your aids.

What is your level of training? This one must be said! If you are a beginner rider, your aids will be executed in a very different manner than those of a more experienced rider. You will have to develop the level of coordination needed to be able to become lighter over time. Lightness does not mean you simply let go of all your aids and hope for the best (in fact, an educated horse might be offended by that)! Light aids are very difficult to acquire and even harder to execute. It all comes down to experience and education.

So to answer the question: it all depends! You have to be the judge, and know how to read in between your horse's lines.

The difficulty here is that on different days, the same horse may require a "different" rider. You must step up to the challenge, and be willing to change your "style" to suit your horse. Many horses sigh with relief when they discover that their rider knows what she wants and is willing to put the work in to be clear and consistent.

In the meantime, you are always seeking the ultimate lightness of aids. You are always seeking the moment when you and your horse "become one", moving in harmony, balance and lightness. It will come sooner with some horses than others. The main goal is for you to enjoy what each horse offers each day, in the best way that you can.

So, how do you decide how "loud" you need to be in your aids?

Do You Make This Timing Mistake When Riding Your Horse?

Have you ever given your horse an aid and got nothing in return?

Perhaps your horse simply didn't respond? You did it again, and nothing resulted even the second time.

Perhaps your horse gave you an unwanted response - did he pin his ears, scramble forward or even throw out a little buck or kick?

Most of us would then repeat the aid, and expect the horse to "learn" the correct response, because after all, it is the horse that needs to understand what we are doing, and not the other way around!

If you ever find yourself in a vicious cycle with the horse not improving and possibly deteriorating in response, there could be one other variable that you might not have considered - the TIMING of the aid.

The timing of the aid has to do with everything - time it wrong, and you might as well be doing nothing, or worse still, irritating your horse.

Every gait has an inherent rhythm to it. You can probably already feel the "swing" of the horse's back in that gait. You might already know how to post and/or sit rhythmically in the trot, and follow the canter gently through your seat so you don't smack the horse's back with each stride. You can already use your seat and leg aids and steadily, with feeling, use your hands to keep the energy "recycling" back into the horse rather than let it all out the front.

For the most part, your horse is quite pleased with your riding skills! But you know that you and your horse are not yet "one" - there is something missing that prevents you from moving together in tandem - the type of communication that makes onlookers think that you can read each other's mind.

Breaking down the stride

Simply put, the horse cannot respond to your aid if the inside hind foot is on the ground. Once that foot lands on the ground, it is immobilized and unable to do anything other than bear weight.

Not Moment — "Not" Moment: Aiding at this point in the right lead canter stride would only irritate or confuse the horse

The time to use an aid is when that foot is heading off the ground into the air. You need to energize the leg as it is cycling through the air into the next stride. It is through that moment when the horse is able to reach further underneath the body, or take a lateral step, or change gait. The moment resurfaces every time the horse takes the inside hind leg off the ground, but it is there only for that moment!

You have to find that moment and make it useful. Applying an aid should be done in rhythm within those moments - stride by stride rather than maintained steadily through several strides. You may find yourself, in effect, dancing your aids to the horse, in the rhythm that works best for him.

Trot Moment: In this moment, the left (inside) hind leg is preparing to lift off the ground. The left front leg (and right hind) is going to be weight bearing.

It may sound complicated to time your aids, but it really isn't too difficult. Rather than having to focus on the inside hind leg (which can be difficult if you haven't developed the "feelers" in your seat), you can look to the inside front leg for a clue as to what the inside hind leg is doing.

When to time Your Aids

Walk or Trot: Apply your aids when the inside front leg is on its way back.

Canter: Apply your aid when the horse is in the "down stride" of the canter

In both examples, the inside hind leg would be in the moment of elevation. Should you apply the aid in that moment, the leg would be able to respond as it is still gliding through the air.

Canter Moment: Aiding should have already been applied as the left (inside) hind leg is lifting off the ground.

That is all there is to it! Pay close attention, wait for the moment, execute the aid during the moment, and let the horse respond.

Try it and tell us know how it works out!

Secrets to a Great Turn (a.k.a. “Shift Out to Turn In”)

If you "listen" carefully, can you feel your horse's subtle weight shifts when you begin a turn? Can you tell if your horse uses his hind end while heading into a turn, or does he feel stiff and awkward, almost like he's leaving his legs behind the movement?

Most horses will enter a turn in the latter manner, if nothing is done to "set up" the turn in the first place.

What You Don't Want

You will know this type of turn by identifying these signs:

He will brace against the reins. You might find that he increases the pressure on your hands, gets hollow in his back, and shortens his stride length (in the hind end) as he goes into the turn.

He may throw his shoulder down into the ground. This looks and feels like the horse goes momentarily "stick-legged" - rather than flowing easily underneath you, the leg feels rigid and unmovable. Generally, he will "lose steam" through the turn - it looks like he is lazy and unwilling to go forward.

Finally, he will probably lift his neck and head in an effort to counteract the imbalance to the forehand.

It is likely that he will continue through the turn, and the legs will take you where you want to go, but the posture and balance of the horse is compromised through the entire movement.

What You Do Want

In contrast, the well-prepared turn looks and feels very different:

Before beginning the turn, the horse shifts his weight, steps further under his body with his hind legs, rounds his back, and reaches for the bit.

He increases his impulsion (even if it appears like no change to the onlooker) and appears to be eagerly (not necessarily quickly) moving forward.

When he begins the turn, the change of direction seems effortless and intentional. The legs just flow in rhythmical, ground-covering fashion.

And as always, the rider appears to be doing nothing!

4 Steps to a Great Turn

Step 1: Shift the horse's weight to the outside (using the inside rein and leg).

Step 2: Support the bend with the outside rein and leg.

Step 3: "Bounce" off the outside aids (inside rein should be light and almost unused).

Step 4: Inside front leg reaches in to the first turn step, followed lightly by the body.

Step 5: Half-halt, right through the turn. This last half-halt helps your horse stay in balance after the turn.

Step 1 and 2: These occur on the straight line before heading into the turn. This is also the moment of engagement - when the horse reaches further underneath the body, lifts the back, rounds and reaches for contact. The weight shifts to the outside just enough to allow the inside of the horse to free up to step into the turn. Once Step 2 is complete, the horse is prepared with a nice light bend, ready to take the first turn step.

Step 3: The "bounce" is the result of your outside aids becoming active. It feels like first you embrace the horse as he fills your outside rein and leg, and then you become active and gently urge him to step away from it all. Through this step, you maintain an inside flexion first with your inside leg and then with your inside rein.

The perfect Step 3 feels like you have a fluttering contact with your inside rein, and the horse is lightly wrapped around your inside leg but pleasantly swelled to the outside. Your own body is exactly in balance with the horse - your hips and shoulders open into the turn in parallel with your horse's shoulders.

Step 4: The horse is now taking his first step into the turn. It is as if you set it all up, and now you are setting the horse free! Here, you just follow - with your seat, hands and balance.

Step 5: A half-halt shortly after the first turn step will help the horse stay in balance rather than give to gravity. Keep riding - don't stop your leg, seat and hand aids just because you started the turn.

You now have a choice - take another step into the turn, or come out of the turn.

Don't be in a rush!

In general, it may take several strides to achieve Steps 1 to 3. Your horse may continue to brace/throw his head/drop the shoulder, maybe even worse than before you tried to set him up. Learn to wait through the upheaval. Keep your aids on calmly but insistently and wait for the moment that you can reward him - even for a small change in the right direction.

Try this at the walk, then trot and canter. Your horse should always enter a turn the same way - shift out to turn in.

One last thought: do not rush the turn, for the turn itself is not the end goal. The goal of this (and any) movement is to help your horse achieve balance within the movement. The movement itself is a breeze after that!

Don’t mistake the halt for a stop!

Don't do it! Don't mistake the halt for a stop.

They are two entirely different maneuvers.

It LOOKS like a stop but it really isn't

Avoid using the terms 'halt' and 'stop' interchangeably. They are completely distinct. The stop is as it says - a complete stop. Done. Over with, been there. Finished. Use the stop at the end of your ride, just before you get off.

The halt is far removed from the stop. It is a movement, and as such, it is just as engaged, energy-bound, and balanced as any other movement the horse can do. Think of it as a canter - without the legs moving, or the progression through space. Picture a car stopped at the red light. The engine is on and the moment of departure is at hand. Your horse should be ready and prepared to proceed to any movement you ask directly out of the halt.

Develop a rhythm, and maintain the momentum.

The halt has a rhythm similar to the rest of the movements. It also has momentum. The horse's hind legs go underneath the body and are prepared and waiting to step into the next movement at a moment's notice.

Don't break the momentum - even when you go to halt.

If you 'stop' instead of halt, the momentum is lost and the horse loses balance, strength and precision. The body becomes flat. The legs feel like they are 'stuck in the mud'. It is virtually impossible to do anything other than stagger out of the stop. The horse seems surprised if you ask for something after the stop.

Because the secret is that the halt is still a movement.

In classical dressage, the halt is considered a movement. By definition, the halt is a "suspension of progress, especially a temporary one." It is a pause, but it is just that. Keep the horse round - similar to a nice trot - and just stop the forward progression through space.

It is NOT a stop-moving-your-feet-and-throw-it-all-away feeling.

It is more of a wait-wait-wait-and-now-GO! feeling.

You NEED your legs going into the stop!

The horse should round its back and reach further underneath the body with the hind legs - all of this happens before the halt. Use your legs to lift the back before the horse halts. Keep the horse straight and half-halt into the movement. Avoid using your hands to pull on the horse's mouth. Instead, halt from your seat. THEN, halt from the hind end. The front end remains balanced and light. The back is round, the contact is consistent. The legs will stop square if the approach into the halt is energetic, forward and balanced.

Be ready to gracefully step out of the pause at a moment's notice - to walk, trot or canter.

Don't do it! Don't mistake the halt for a stop!

P.S. One last thought

The "test" for the halt: the horse is round, reaching for the bit, and SQUARE with all four legs. Then you know you did it!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Other articles you might enjoy!

The 99% Lucky Rule: We're lucky 99% of the time when we are around horses. How to avoid the other 1%.

Speaking Horse: (a.k.a. "Pushing the Envelope"): It is important to know that speaking "horse" doesn't mean getting all cuddly and cute. Read to find out how to "speak" so that horses appreciate your presence.

Quit to Persevere: When quitting is the right thing to do.

The Truth About Balance: It isn't only about balance in the saddle - find balance in all areas of the horse's life.

How The “Not Canter” Can Drastically Improve Your Transitions

Imagine experiencing the dread that comes along with having to do something particularly undesirable. Except in this case, in some miraculous way, the "powers that be" come to your rescue - and actually rescind the request. Can you imagine the relief you would feel when you realize that you would NOT have to do the task?

Some horses get into the same emotional (and physical) bind when it comes to transitions. At times, it can happen even to the best of horses - a new learning phase with higher expectations might spark either mental, emotional or even physical stress. There may be ear pinning, tail swishing, hopping, kicking out, teeth grinding - so many signs that your horse might be finding the task too difficult.

Every time you ask (with the correct aids), the horse resists. The situation becomes ugly - you have a hard enough time just sitting the bounciness, never mind getting the transition. You kick, use your voice, use the crop, rock your body over the forehand of the horse - anything to get that canter!

The horse's response can range from a mild hesitation to an outright buck or rear. Eventually, you win - the horse launches himself into a lurched, scrambling canter, running off at warp speed just to keep the three-beat gait. Ears are pinned, tail is swishing, and the strides feel awkward and unbalanced.

Many riders feel that the discomfort must be a sort of right of passage, and the horse must be driven through this awkward and unbalanced phase. Surely, the horse MUST give in one day and eventually settle into a nice calm, rhythmical canter - it only takes time and enough repetition. Right?

Well, probably not.

It is true that some horses do "give in" and eventually canter more promptly - but there will always be an element of tension and lack of balance. What needs to be changed is the pattern of asking - the horse needs to be shown how to be calm and confident in the canter departure.

There are many methods to teaching a good transition but the "not canter" works easily and well if performed with gentleness and empathy. It is actually very simple - the difficult part is the waiting and patience that is required.

How to "Not Canter"

Establish a good calm, slow, rhythmical trot.

Apply the aids for the canter.

Then do not canter.

That's it!

Of course, your horse will react the same way he has the past hundred times. He'll pin his ears, shake his head, grind his teeth. He'll tighten his back and brace himself for a launch into the canter universe.

And you will NOT.

You will keep trotting - keep the rhythm, staying steady, slow, calm. Wait until he releases the tension, finishes the hops and tail swishes. Wait for the sigh of relief when he realizes that he doesn't have to perform on the spot.

Re-establish the trot.

Then, ask for the "not canter" again.

Keep doing this and wait for the horse to respond more calmly to your aids. He may be confused at first - why ask for something when you don't want it? But eventually, he'll see that the canter aids don't have to cause all that tension.

Celebrate!

If he happens to reach further underneath himself with his hind legs, you will celebrate. If he snorts and swings better in the trot, you will celebrate. If you discover that he takes larger trot strides, you will celebrate. Because even though these are not the canter, they are all the prerequisites to a good canter. They are all mini-steps in the right direction.

Then ask for another "not canter". And another. And another.

One time (probably sooner than you expect), the horse will canter. But it will be hesitant, slow stepping, breaking back to the trot. And you will celebrate that too!

Stick to the program - calm, slow, rhythmical trot. Put on the aids again: "not canter".

Wait for the next canter attempts, and once or twice, accept the canter. Do your best to follow the movement - but don't force it. Accept tentative attempts. Encourage by petting and ONE time, ask for a real canter. If there is a hint of tension, back off and "not canter" again.

Feel free to quit at any time that you feel your horse has somewhat calmed. You can always pick it up again tomorrow.

And be sure in the knowledge that this "not" path to the canter is much faster and truer than any method that requires force. Your aim is to prove to the horse that you will always give him the benefit of the doubt, and that you are willing to wait for the "results".

Happy riding!

Note: The "not" technique can be used for any movement: the "not trot" (from a walk), the "not walk" (from a trot or canter), the "not shoulder-in", etc. It is essentially a frame of mind - can be used anywhere and any time!

**Caution: The "not canter" might not be helpful in all circumstances. If a young horse is cantering for the very first time, this would be counterproductive. Also, there may be instances where a horse might become too excited if the energy is contained too long. Always use your best judgment in using any techniques, and seek the help of a more advanced rider/trainer if necessary. And always let the horse be your guide - you should be able to identify fairly quickly if the horse appreciates the technique.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening Book 2 – Forward And Round To Training Success

Stop printing off the articles! Your favorite training articles are compiled in this beautifully bound paperback book. Have everything at your fingertips - this book can be taken to the barn as a quick refresher or leisurely read at home.

From the book:

"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?

We all want our horses to improve in their athletic

development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....

But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.

Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.

Or not."

Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.

The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:

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better balanced all-around

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Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

The timing of the aid has to do with everything - time it wrong, and you might as well be doing nothing, or worse still, irritating your horse.

Breaking down the stride

When to time Your Aids

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Don't do it! Don't mistake the halt for a stop.

They are two entirely different maneuvers.

Develop a rhythm, and maintain the momentum.

Don't break the momentum - even when you go to halt.

Because the secret is that the halt is still a movement.

You NEED your legs going into the stop!

Be ready to gracefully step out of the pause at a moment's notice - to walk, trot or canter.

Don't do it! Don't mistake the halt for a stop!

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

How to "Not Canter"

Establish a good calm, slow, rhythmical trot.

Apply the aids for the canter.

Then do not canter.

That's it!

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening Book 2 – Forward And Round To Training Success