lessons/training – Page 9 – Horse Listening

How To Get The Most Out Of Your Riding Lessons

You've booked your lessons and can't wait to get started. You're all set and just waiting to see what your instructor has to tell you. That's all you need, right?

Well, yes and no. It is great to be prepared with horse and equipment ready. But there is so much more you can do to maximize the potential for learning from each and every lesson. Here are some ideas on what you can do to really benefit from your instructor's time and energy.

Be in the ring and ready to go.

Some instructors want to do the warm-up with you in order to guide you in a way that is most suitable for your horse. In that manner, they can start you off with exercises that help your horse with his specific difficulties. They also give you ideas on what can be done when you're riding on your own.

As you become a more advanced rider, and you and your instructor know each other better, there might come a time when you might be told to be warmed up and ready to go. This gives you both more time for the learning part of the lesson, when you can try new things or reinforce something you are still working on.

The bottom line is be ready. Get in the ring before the lesson is scheduled to start. Have all your tack adjusted and secure so you can start right away. Be on the horse and walking by the time your instructor is ready for you.

Interpret instructions into physical movements.

There is an art to being a good student. Your instructor tells you what to do but it is you who has to know how to make it happen. Learning how to be the translator of verbal instructions is a difficult skill to develop, especially when you are first introduced to a new skill or concept. However, it is one of the most important keys to having great lessons and reaping rewards from what is taught.

Try even if you think you can't do it.

This happens all the time! Your instructor might tell you to do something and all you can think is, I can't do that! Or maybe you think, I've never done that, we're not ready!

In any case, give it your best shot. You'll realize that your instructor is likely not going to push you so far out of your comfort zone that the skill will be impossible for you. There is no other way to expand your horizons, so just go with it. Most skills take a long time (years maybe) to really develop, so just get started and work on what you get.

We all go through self-doubt, especially when faced with new learning.

Maintain a steady lesson routine.

Nothing can be learned in bits and spurts. You need to develop a routine, for both you and your horse, in order to make any kind of significant change in your riding and/or your horse's training. Most instructors offer lesson packages or monthly schedules. Take advantage and slot yourself in for regular lessons.

Lesson more often if possible.

Many of us take lessons once a week, but if you really want to make an impact, you should aim for two or three lessons a week. The secret to making a substantial change in your physical ability is to do it repeatedly, under supervision, as much as possible.

Watch other riders.

Many of us are visual learners. If your instructor has other students, try to stick around and watch them if at all possible. Even if they are more or less advanced than you, there is always something to be heard or seen that can clarify a concept in your mind. When you sit by the side, you can have more time to really listen to your instructor and watch what the outcome is with another horse and rider. All this information is helpful in your own learning process.

Ride together.

If you tend to have private lessons, you'll enjoy riding with others to break up the routine. You'll be motivated by what the others do. Your horse will be motivated by the other horses in the ring. When others ride at the same time, you'll have a chance to see and then do. It's great for the kinesthetic learners who need to do to learn.

Audit or ride in a clinic.

There is nothing better than adding a clinic to your regular lesson routine. If you can participate in a clinic, you get the chance to get an outside perspective on you and your horse. Often, you'll be surprised at how the clinician picks up on the exact same points that your instructor tells you routinely. Other times, you might hear something told to you in a different way that makes you connect the dots that you already knew about, but come together just because they were presented in a different manner.

If you can't ride, you can always go watch. Even if you don't know the riders or the horses, you'll see what other people do, how they learn and what exercises to use for particular skills. You can listen to the clinician's explanations. There are always things to learn by watching.

Read.

I always say that you can't learn to ride by reading. I still agree with that statement. However, reading is an excellent addition to your practical lessons. There isn't always enough time in a lesson to go into detailed explanations - and that is where books (and blogs!) can fit into your learning program. You might be able to pick something up theoretically that you can later use during your ride. If you are prepared with some knowledge, you might be able to pick up the meaning of your instructor's directions quicker than if you have no background whatsoever.

Watch videos.

And I don't mean the 13-second carefully edited ones on TikTok!

There are so many instructional videos put up on YouTube and other platforms these days that there is likely someone you can watch and follow in exactly your level and interest area/discipline. Many of us are visual learners and even though we can't actually feel what the rider feels in the video, it still helps to watch the process and the result.

Well, I hope some of these strategies are helpful for you, and wishing you the best lessons ever!

Are there any other strategies you use to get the most our of your lessons? Let us know in the comments below.

Collection: A Beginning Exercise To Try

I made a fairly bold statement in a previous article that was about differentiating between frame, roundness and collection. I said that most of us don't actually ride in collection with our horses, even when we think that's what we're doing.

I still stand by that comment, especially because there are a couple of misconceptions about what collection really means.

The Misconceptions

Collection isn't only about being slow. Many people think that if they slow down their horses (think disengagement of the hind end), that they are "collecting". It is true that upper level horses don't move their legs quickly, but the slowness doesn't come about because of lack of forward. In fact, it's quite the opposite. If the horse needs to elevate the legs higher, then he needs more time to do that. The legs move slower to allow for the increased "joint articulation" and movement required in collection.

Collection isn't about shortening the stride length either. People often think that if they can get their horses to travel over less ground, that they're collected. In fact, the leg activity increases. Although the horse takes more steps in less space, the energy goes into forming higher and rounder leg movement rather than just moving ahead over ground.

This is how I explained collection in the article:

In dressage, collection is the highest level of training for the horse. In other words, travelling while collected is difficult and requires a sophisticated level of balance, mental/emotional control, and understanding from the horse. The collected horse has developed the strength to tilt the haunches so the hind legs are far underneath the body, and the front end (head and neck included) is at the highest point. The horse moves in an “uphill” manner.

Collection is achieved primarily by the seat and legs. The hands are the last to act, and ideally, serve to “catch and recycle” the energy produced by the seat and legs. The horse is not kept in place – the collected appearance is the result of the activity of the hind end. Let go of both reins, and the horse should stay in collection for several strides.

In The Beginning

Collection is difficult for both rider and horse to achieve, especially in the beginning, because of the re-definition of aids that needs to take place. While the horse and rider are in the novice stage of riding, leg aids can be used to just move, or to perform a transition.

But when you start working on collection, you will change your seat and leg aids to mean something different. In this case, leg aids need to mean "engagement" rather than just "go". Your expectation, as the rider, is that the horse puts more energy into the movement, without going bigger or faster or longer or changing gaits. In fact, your leg and seat aids combined will be morphing into something new to tell the horse: put more energy into your movement, reach deeper underneath your body, and begin to tilt your pelvis so that you can start to carry rather than push.

An Exercise

There is a (seemingly) simple exercise you can use to start to teach you and your horse what collection feels like. It can help your horse begin to feel what it's like to reach under with the hind legs and tilt the pelvis (even if just a little). It basically puts you into "assuming the position" rather than trying to force anything.

These are called "nested circles." The trick with doing them is that they both should start at the exact same point. So if you start the large circle at C, but then go into the small circle three-quarters into the circle, you'll lose the purpose of the exercise. Make sure you start them at the same place.

Do the large circle first. I have it spaced out here at 20 metres, but you can adjust the size according to your riding space. The key is to make it large and evenly round. Take the opportunity here to activate your horse's hind legs.

You only need a mild bend, so although you want flexion (the horse looks in the direction of the turn), you can keep the horse fairly straight and focus on energy and activity. Make the strides large, find your ideal tempo and stay at that tempo, and then focus on the accuracy of the circle.

Then do the small circle. In the diagram, it's a 10-metre circle but again, you can play with the size a bit. Just don't make it too large, nor too small. You need it small enough to ask for a fairly deep bend, but not so small that you horse has trouble negotiating the turn in the first place.

Bend! As you approach the small circle (in the last quarter of the large circle), apply your bend aids - inside leg at the girth, outside leg behind the girth, your core and shoulders turned to the middle of the circle, mild inside rein contact for flexion, outside neck rein for direction - and bend before you hit C again. Then, move into the 10-m circle.

The horse should now have a fairly deep bend in the hind end as well as the front end. But make sure he doesn't just fall to the inside. The image of "wrapped around your inside leg" works well here. Complete the 10-m circle.

But Don't Forget!

This is where we all fall apart a bit. We tend to flop - either to the inside of the turn, or in our seat. Stay tall, turn in but don't lean or collapse, and keep riding!

During the small circle, you need to focus on more than just bend. You also have to encourage the horse to maintain or even increase his energy level. You can accept a mildly slower tempo with the legs, but you can't let the energy dissipate. In fact, you need to do everything you can to encourage your horse to stay in front of your leg especially in the small circle.

At first, you'll feel a bit like a teeter totter. You will ask your horse to go, and he'll go but fall to the forehand and begin to rush off. Half-halt and try again.

If you don't ask the horse to go, he might break gait or quit altogether. Or sometimes, you ask the horse to go and he just runs off.

Be patient through these tries. Both of you have to learn what it feels like to carry rather than to just push with the hind end. Both of you need to figure out how much energy you need to put in to maintain the gait with more activity and roundness.

So listen carefully to your horse, and see how much go you need and how much half-halt you need to not let the energy just run off.

If you find yourself and/or your horse huffing and puffing after just a few tries - congratulations! You're on the right track. You'll both need to develop the stamina to keep moving in collection over a longer period of time.

If you feel like you're just going from "go to no", then you're also on the right track. Over time, you'll be able to be more diplomatic in your aids and your horse will become better at keeping his own balance.

Give this a try. Did your horse step deeper on the smaller circle? Were you able to keep up the activity level while on the smaller circle? Did you have any difficulties? Let us know in the comments below.

If you like this sort of pattern work, join my Practice Sessions Premium Membership. The Practice Sessions are a complete program beginning with exercises like the one above, designed to improve specific aspects of the horse and rider. All set up and ready to go, all you have to do is watch the video, print off the pattern PDF and head to the barn!

But there's so much more! There's quality of movement exercises, theory "Mini-Classes" on specific aids and figures, a fantastic group of riders who motivate and encourage each other, and so much more! Click here to learn more.

Horse Listening Book Collection - beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands! Click on the image for more information.

Buy the books for many more riding tips! Horse Listening Book Collection.

Personally signed books available! Just send me a message.

Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?

By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

- the rider’s aids

- the use of the seat

- the half-halt

- accurate turns and circles

- transitions

- horse ownership and horse care

- goal setting for the rider

- rein lameness

… and much more!

Available as an eBook or as paperback. Click here to learn more.

Five Steps To Transforming Your Horse’s “Give To The Bit”

Hint: It starts with you... and it doesn't require a pull on the reins!

Riders often talk about getting their horses to "give to the bit." If you're unfamiliar with the term, here is my interpretation of what the phrase means. The rider shortens the rein to the point that the horse feels the pressure in his mouth. Then the educated horse should soften his jaw and poll and "give" in the direction of the pull. The rider then releases his pressure on the bit.

The result is that the horse feels light on the bit, and avoids pulling against the rein pressure. The head and neck do soften in response to the pressure, and the horse's movement might in fact improve when compared to the horse that is ridden in tension and tightness.

It's relatively easy to get most horses to give to the bit in this manner. A cause and effect response (the horse finds a release when he releases) is fairly simple for horses and riders to learn and respond to.

Many people ride like this over the long term, and I have done so myself - so I know of what I speak! The problem is that most horses have to develop some sort of coping mechanism to be able to hold their body in a position that allows for the bit release (also called "framing").

Here are some issues that can develop from pulling to get the horse to give:

- hollow back

- disengagement from the hind end (i.e. less energy)

- tilted head position

- overbend in the neck

- (the dreaded) "breaking at the 3rd vertebra" in the neck

- open mouth

I'm sure there's more. In any case, if the horse shows these signs, chances are that you might unknowingly be putting the horse into a stressful position, even if it feels good in your hands. No matter how you slice it and dice it, a pull causes some sort of blockage of energy somewhere in the horse's body.

There is another way, although I have to admit that it requires considerably more coordination and balance on the rider's part. It will likely take longer to learn but when done correctly, the horse's response is worth every stumbling, fumbling minute it took for you to learn.

Almost every horse responds positively if you know how to do it, even if the horse is green or less educated.

First Step

Start with contact. Taking contact doesn't mean pull - it means that your reins are short enough for you and your horse to feel each other. Think of it as holding hands. Shorten your reins just enough for you and your horse to be able to communicate comfortably (as in, you don't want to have to pull the reins shorter after he takes off, or conversely, you won't be pulled out of the saddle because the reins were too tight).

Second Step

You must get a response from the hind end. Use your leg and seat aids to - Go! The horse should move ahead with confidence. Note that the horse shouldn't move faster. Instead, you should feel an energy surge that might even give you a bit of a whiplash feeling. This is good. Ride it! (Don't get left behind and inadvertently pull on the reins).

Third Step

Maintain contact. Don't push your hands forward, straighten your elbows, release the reins forward, let the reins go, or anything else that will drop the horse suddenly onto his forehand. Also, avoid pulling backwards for any reason. Just be there and go with him.

Fourth Step

Half-halt. Yes, here it is again! The half-halt will help the horse not fall to the forehand. It will help him maintain balance even while putting in more energy - from the hind.

Fifth Step

This is the most important step.

Give a tiny 1-inch release forward. This comes after the half-halt. You can soften your elbows and/or shoulders to give that release.

You will feel like there is nothing in your hands.

You might be amazed to discover that when you release, your horse can release too. That tiny bit of space forward allows him to reach TO THE BIT (not come off the bit). This movement automatically releases the poll and jaw, without the horse having to "learn" anything. It's just a physical response.

The end result is a horse that is moving forward, "ahead of the leg," with a naturally set neck, and a soft poll/jaw to top it all off.

But the best part is how it feels. I've called it "marshmallow contact" in the past because it feels soft and loose and sweet.

Basically, your release gets the horse's release - forward. You can be on a bend or going straight. The feeling is the same.

Initially, you might be able to coordinate all your aids only once in a while. Or you might run into problems and not get a release at all for some time. The only answer is to get good, consistent feedback from your instructor. Keep trying until you "find" it. Then you will be able to find it more frequently, and then finally, one day, you'll be able to get it (almost) consistently!

Keep at it, because in the end, it's the horse who benefits. Listen to him for snorts, a swinging back, strength in movement, deep strides, and overall tension release. And enjoy how it feels!

Buy the book for many more riding tips!

Horse Listening Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises to Add Variety To Your Riding Routine

Stop wandering round and round aimlessly!

Horse Listening Book 4 is a compilation of the best patterns that have been shared on the Horse Listening Blog. The book is divided into five sections: Warm-Ups, Left and Right, Straightness, Suppleness and Collection. Each section has specific exercises and theory based on its topic.

But there's more!

There is a Special Center Section dedicated to only Transitions - something that we can all work on throughout our riding careers. And finally, scattered throughout the book are chapters that clearly explain theory, technique and skills that can help improve the featured exercises of teach Section.

Use these 20-minute exercises!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Focus On Transitions – Week 4

This is our fourth and final week of Focus On Transitions. I hope you've been able to try some of the exercises in your daily riding, and have found them to be useful in helping to improve your horse's transitions as well as overall gaits and way of going. I'm in the process of putting together a much more complete course package for those who wanted more. Go to my Practice Sessions page for more details.

If you missed the first three exercises, click on the appropriate link below. Although the exercises have been progressively difficult, you can always mix them up and use them repeatedly over the course of several weeks. It never hurts to go back to the more simple exercises on a day that you might want to keep things easy, or skip one and go to the more challenging exercise. It all depends on you and your horse's needs.

I'd also love to hear your feedback - which ones you tried, how things went, what did they do for you and your horse. Just email me at fwdnrnd@gmail.com

Focus On Transitions - Week One

Focus On Transitions - Week Two

Focus On Transitions - Week Three

I've saved the most interesting exercise for the last one! Enjoy!

Purpose:

This week, we're going to progress into more changes - including changes of bend as well as gaits. We have embedded circles at different gaits, which will require your horse to step deeper under the body and bend more than in previous exercises. We continue with straight line transitions and non-progressive as well as progressive transitions.

You can simplify the exercise by keeping to one gait for both circles. You can make the exercise more difficult by cantering the 10-metre circle and trotting the 20-metre circle.

Goals:

Accurate 20-metre circle which transitions to a 10-metre circle
Straight and balanced canter-walk and walk-canter transitions
Effective use of corners at trot
Adequate bend for 20-metre vs. 10-metre circles
Trot to halt transition on a straight line

Aids:

See the previous articles for the walk-canter and canter-walk, as well as the walk-trot and trot-walk transitions.

Trot-Halt Transition

This is a non-progressive, downward transition that requires more energy and response from the horse than you might think.

1. Trot

As this is the last "movement" of the exercise, you come to the halt from the 20-metre trot circle. Make sure you have a strong, round trot as you come out of the circle. If your horse has a tendency to slow down on a circle, you might need to energize him from the hind end before heading onto the straight line. If your horse tends to rush, use a half-halt or two to help him balance more to the hind end before the straight line.

2. Straight Line

You come out of a mild 20-metre bend to the rail. Be sure to keep your horse's shoulders from "leaking to the outside" and pointing to the rail. Keep the horse straight on the straight line. Half-halt through the last two or three strides in preparation for the halt.

3. Halt

Stop with your seat. Keep your legs on the horse's side, but not active. Keep contact with the reins, but avoid pulling back. Try to get the halt more from your seat than your hands. Ideally, your horse should stop straight (not leaning to one side) and square (front legs parallel and hind legs parallel).

Exercise:

Start at Walk before C, on the left rein.

Transition to canter at C, left lead. 20-metre canter circle.

Transition to trot at C. 10-metre trot circle.

Make sure you increase your horse's bend for this circle. He might want to slow down a bit - you can accept that if you feel that the initial trot was too fast, but make sure you keep his energy up and the stride length long.

Continue at trot through the corner.

Walk at S.

Walk the sharp left turn at E, straight over X, and walk the sharp right turn at B.

Canter transition at P.

20-metre canter circle, right lead, starting at A.

10-metre trot circle at A.

Come out of the trot circle and halt before the corner.

You can walk out of the exercise and start the whole thing over again by walking across the diagonal (maybe in a nice stretchy walk?) and starting again before C. Or you can continue straight along the rail, and start at C going in the opposite direction. Your walk lines will be on the opposite sides of the rails.

Using embedded circles like this helps both you and your horse develop a really good sense of the bend and engagement it takes to transition between small and large circles. Add the gait transitions, and it's not as easy as it looks!

Let me know how you do. You can post in the comments below, or email me directly.

Happy Riding!

Disclaimer: Use this as a guideline but you might need your instructor to respond to your individual needs. By using information on this site, you agree and understand that you are fully responsible for your progress, results and safety. We offer no representations, warranties or guarantees verbally or in writing regarding your improvement or your horse’s response or results of any kind. Always use the information on this site with a view toward safety for both you and your horse. Use your common sense when around horses.

Focus On Transitions – Week 3

I hope you've enjoyed working on the previous weeks' transition exercises. If you haven't seen them yet, click on the links below for the first two weeks. You'll find detailed descriptions of the aids for each transition in the text of the the first two weeks.

Focus on Transitions - Week 1

Focus on Transitions - Week 2

______

Purpose:

Things are getting a little more complicated this week! We're going to head into a bit more challenge with non-progressive transitions (specifically walk/canter/walk) and a walk/canter straight line transition. In general, straight line transitions are more difficult than transitions on turns (the horses want to fell left or right). There is also a canter loop and 15-metre circles at each end of the ring.

If you have a young horse or beginner rider, feel free to change the gaits to the ability level that is needed. For example, trot instead of canter, come off the pattern when needed (nothing is written is stone!) or make the circles larger. Always suit the exercise to the student and horse, and set them up for success before moving on.

Here we go!

Goals:

properly placed 15-metre circles
straight and balanced canter-walk transitions
Effective corners
Transitions within a straight line
Impulsion to, through and after the transitions
Effective half-halts before and after changes (gait and bend)

Aids:

Walk-Canter-Walk

1. Walk

Start with a strong, marching walk. Keep reins short enough for the upcoming canter transition. Legs should be on and seat is walking.

2. Prepare

Half-halt two to three strides before the canter transition. This half-halt might be just a "whispering" half-halt because you are at the walk and there is little impulsion. Be sure your half-halt doesn't block the horse, but rather, softens him over the top line and prepares him for a deeper hind end stride as you head into the canter.

3. Canter Transition

Inside leg stays firm at the girth, helping the horse stay straight.

Outside leg does a "windshield wiper" movement behind the girth.

Seat canters.

Ideally, these aids happen in quick succession, almost at the same time. Be sure that your seat continues in the canter after the first canter stride. You might need to keep your outside leg back over the first few strides to secure the canter lead.

4. Walk Transition

After achieving a rhythmical, strong canter, prepare to walk with a series of half-halts.

Both legs become active - they put pressure on the girth, asking the hind end to come underneath for the transition.

Half-halt a few strides before the transition.

Seat changes to walk.

You might need a few half-halts after the walk transition as well, to establish an active rhythm.

Exercise:

Once again, adapt this exercise to your ring size. The letters are there for reference only.

Start at the red arrow, just before C. You are walking on the left rein.

Canter transition at C. Left 15-metre circle beginning and ending at C.

Walk transition after C, before the corner. Walk through the corner, while preparing for another canter transition.

Canter loop from H to X to K. This requires the horse to do a mild counter-canter but maintain the left lead. You might need to encourage more activity through this part in order to maintain balance and roundness (work over the topline).

Before K, prepare to walk. Walk at K, before the corner. Walk to A.

Before A, prepare to trot.

At A, do a 15-metre left circle at trot.Continue through the corner, preparing to walk.

Walk at F. Between F and P, prepare for a walk to canter transition. Shorten the walk strides and increase the energy level. You might need to work at keeping your horse straight through this short walk as well.

Left lead canter at P. Maintain the straight line to M.

Before M, prepare to walk. Walk at M.

You can start the whole thing over and do the left side a few times before you change directions to the right side.

I rode this exercise myself this week with Cyrus. The transitions do come up quickly and the relative "straightness" of the whole thing gives little room for rest. But it kept us on our toes and had Cyrus working well from the hind end when all was said and done! His gaits got freer and more balanced as we went through it several times. His rhythm slowed a bit and felt more purposeful at all the gaits. The walk breaks gave us a chance to gather ourselves for the next part of the exercise.

Most importantly, it was fun!

Have you been working on these exercises? I'd love to hear how they are working for you. Leave a comment below, or email me at fwdnrnd@gmail.com

Happy riding!

But there's so much more! There's quality of movement exercises, theory "Mini-Lessons" on specific aids and figures, a fantastic group of riders who motivate and encourage each other, and so much more! Click here to learn more.

Disclaimer: Use this as a guideline but you might need your instructor to respond to your individual needs. By using information on this site, you agree and understand that you are fully responsible for your progress, results and safety. Everything offered on this site is for entertainment purposes only. We offer no representations, warranties or guarantees verbally or in writing regarding your improvement or your horse’s response or results of any kind. Always use the information on this site with a view toward safety for both you and your horse. Use your common sense when around horses.

Want to advertise your business on Horse Listening? Click here for more info.

Focus on Transitions – Week 1

Active, balanced transitions are among the most fundamental parts of riding. Transitions are like a pass in hockey, a volley to your teammate in volleyball, or the skate-up to a jump in figure skating. Without a good transition, the horse will be unable to balance into the next movement, no matter how hard he scrambles after the fact.

On week one of our Focus on Transitions, we're going to focus on walk/trot/walk transitions as well as left/right changes of direction.

I'll go over the aids for both the up and down transitions and then you'll get our exercise of the week. We'll also go through the three types of transitions. All three types can be included in our exercise. Please feel free to let me know how things go in the comments at the bottom of the page.

______

Purpose:

Walk-Trot-Walk Transition, Change of Direction and Change of Circle Size (Bend)

Due to the 10m circle, this exercise is suitable for horses and riders with some previous training. You can simplify it for young horses or beginner riders by working on 20m circles only.

Goals:

Balance
Impulsion
Beginning of topline use
Beginning lateral suppleness
Maintenance of rhythm through the changes
Accuracy of circle size, 20m and 10m

The walk-trot-walk transition is a basic movement but don't be fooled by its simplicity! Many horses, trained or not, have difficulty managing a balanced, energetic transition in these gaits. We will work on the preparation to each transition to help develop impulsion to, through and after each gait change.

Change of direction and circle size is also added in this exercise to help the horse (and rider) develop a beginning level of suppleness and balance.

Aids:

Please note that these are general aids that do not necessarily resolve specific problems.*

Trot Transition From the Walk

Start with a good walk.

Prepare to trot.

Trot.

Go!

Half-halt.

Start with a good walk.

As in, don't just drag your horse into the trot. Get a good march, preferably on a large circle with a mild bend. Establish a strong walk rhythm before heading into a trot.

Prepare to trot.

Use a mild half-halt two or three strides before the transition. Keep the strong, forward walk footfalls right to the transition (as in, don't allow the horse to slow down or conversely, speed up the last couple of strides).

Trot.

Start with your seat. Trot in your seatbones.

Add legs - even pressure on both sides. Use as little as you need, but as much as you need.

Maintain your rein length.

Don't get left behind when the horse trots off. Do you best to not pull back on the reins through the transition (we all do this even subconsciously). However, also do your best to not let the reins out during the transition. We also do this when we're trying to not pull!

Go!

After the legs change, ask for a couple of steps of increased impulsion. This might sound counter-intuitive until you realize that the horse should have increased energy to allow the hind legs to come deeper underneath the body just as the trot is beginning. Let the horse give you this slight energy surge and ride it through. Don't block with your hands through this moment.

Half-halt.

This is like the icing on the cake. In order to help your horse maintain balance through the gait change, you still need to "recycle" the energy back to the hind end. Some horses need very slight half-halts (maybe even just from a little finger squeezing on the reins) while others need a true rebalancing from the seat. You might even have to adjust your half-halt strength in different times for the same horse. Again, stick to the same rule - use as little strength as you need but as much as you need.

Walk Transition From the Trot

Start with a good trot.

Prepare to walk.

Walk.

Go!

Half-halt.

You might be noticing a pattern in the transition aids.

The down transition aids are pretty much the same as the up transition aids. I won't repeat everything I already said above for the walk/trot transition, but all the explanations would be the same - just with opposite gaits.

Use your seat the same way (switch from trot to walk), use your half-halts in the same way, and use the Step #4 "Go" the same way, after your horse is walking. Do use your leg aids as you prepare to walk. Keep your legs on in the transition.

What you shouldn't do is use your reins to pull your way into the walk. Half-halts should do nicely and then your seat can take over from there.

Exercise:

T1d — Transition Exercise #1 © Horse Listening, 2015

We'll start with a variation on regular figure eights.

This first diagram is drawn on a large 20x60 metre ring. The second diagram is drawn for a smaller, 20x40m ring. Unless you're using these exercises for show preparation, the size of your ring doesn't matter as much as the accuracy and consistency in size of your circles.

Let's say you are starting the exercise at C, going left.

Start with a 20-m circle to the left, at the trot.

You will go around the circle one and a half times. So, you start at C but finish on the opposite end of the circle at #1.

Transition to the next circle to the right. The catch here is that the right circle is going to be half the size of the left circle: only 10m.

T1a — Transition Exercise #1, smaller ring © Horse Listening, 2015

Go around that circle one and a half times to #2.

Transition to the next 20m circle, going left again until you get to #3.

Finish with a 10m circle going right.

At the end of the pattern, continue on the rail going in the same direction as the last circle (right). This will take you back to C, going to the right.

You can run through the pattern 4 times to practice each side twice.

Transitions

There are three types of transitions in this pattern.

Each circle requires a change of direction. The repeated left and right changes will help to supple your horse laterally. Remember to use your inside seat and leg aid in preparation of the new direction.

The change in circle size helps your horse bend more on the smaller circle, thus requiring a deeper stride from the inside hind leg. Then the next large circle allows the horse to use that increased engagement into a more forward, powerful stride using a smaller bend. See if you can develop a steady tempo in both the large and small circles.

Once you have a good handle on the figure, add gait changes within the circles. Start at the trot and do a walk transition at each midpoint of the circle. You can make it easier for your horse by walking 5 strides. Or you can increase the level of difficulty by limiting the walk to only 3 strides. Just make sure that you do get a walk, and that the walk is at a good marching pace. Then go back to the trot.

Try this exercise a few times this week and see what you think. Does it help your horse develop better suppleness left and right? Do the 10m circles encourage your horse to lighten the front end a bit? Do you run into any problems through any of the transitions? Let us know in the comments below.

Disclaimer: Use this as a guideline but you might need your instructor to respond to your individual needs. By using information on this site, you agree and understand that you are fully responsible for your progress, results and safety. We offer no representations, warranties or guarantees verbally or in writing regarding your improvement or your horse's response or results of any kind. Always use the information on this site with a view toward safety for both you and your horse. Use your common sense when around horses.

How To “Allow” A Lengthening

It isn't easy to work your horse into a true lengthening. That is because most horses tend to increase their leg speed when asked for "more" by the rider's aids. Invariably, we speed up our posting tempo to mirror the horse's and soon enough we are going faster-faster and then the horse switches into a canter.

If the horse doesn't speed up, he might stay in the same trot. So in effect, there was no lengthening at all.

What is a lengthening?

The key to a true lengthen is in the horse's body. The leg speed has nothing to do with the movement (other than in horses with suspension, the tempo might actually slow down a touch). Instead, the horse should stretch in the body from hind leg to front leg, allowing the stride to open up and the body to lengthen. The head can be held high and the nose on or ahead of the vertical.

There should be a feeling of uphill movement and quite a surge of energy (impulsion) as the horse gets into full swing.

Why lengthen?

There are so many reasons to add the lengthen to your daily riding routine. First, it helps strengthen the hind end by asking for the hind legs to come deep underneath the body to start the initial push of energy. Second, it strengthens the topline by allowing the opening of the body and transferring energy through the topline, under the saddle and to the horse's neck and poll.

Third, it challenges the horse to increase energy without losing balance. This is a prerequisite for higher level movements such as the medium or extended trot. Fourth, when done right, it just feels good! Some horses (and riders) lengthen just to feel the freedom of power that it allows.

Use a lengthen after (basic) collected work and see how fun it is for the horse to "go big" after some carrying work.

What not to do.

We'll start with what you shouldn't do to help eliminate the common problems from the get-go.

Don't kick the horse faster. You need seat and leg aids, but you don't need to stun or rush a horse into a lengthen.

Don't grab a hold of the reins and pull the speed back. Use half-halts before, through and after the lengthen. But do your best to allow the horse as much freedom as possible without coming to the forehand.

Don't fall behind the horse's movement. There should be an energy surge as the lengthen develops. Make sure you keep your upper body on top and in center of the saddle. If the horse does in fact lengthen the stride, you'll cover more ground than usual. Be there!

Don't let you reins go. This is the opposite extreme of pulling on the reins. If you let the reins get longer through the movement, the horse will have nothing to support him and will likely fall to the forehand. So it's not exactly a free-for-all in rein length. Keep the reins the same length before, during and after the lengthen.

What to do.

It's easiest to introduce the lengthen to the beginner horse or rider on the long side of the ring. Use the rail to help guide your horse for the first while so that you can focus on the stride length and your own aids and body. Graduate to a diagonal line only after you have some success on the rail.

Use the short side of the ring to prepare for the lengthen. You could do a 15-m circle at A or C to prepare. Develop a good working trot in the circle. Work on rhythm, a nice controlled tempo, and suppleness both laterally and longitudinally. You can post or sit, but if either of you are new to the lengthen, it's generally easier to post while you and the horse develop your strength.

Take that good trot out of the circle and into the corner.

Half-halt into and out of the corner. Make sure your corner is forward and energetic, but the trot stride should still be the horse's normal working trot length. Pump up the energy through your seat and leg but don't let it out yet!

Develop the lengthen.

One of our most common mistakes we make in teaching and/or learning the lengthen is to think that we have to take off like a cannon ball out of the corner. This is how horses learn to stiffen, fall to the forehand and learn not to use their backs.

Instead, come out of the corner as if you're still in your working trot. Then a few strides at a time, "allow" the energy out. If you did your homework in the circle and corner, the horse should be almost exploding with energy and now has a chance to let it come through.

Remember to keep the same rein length and keep your body on top of your horse (don't lean back or get left behind). Just ride as you normally would ride the trot.

Your post might be a touch longer in the forward and back phase if the horse does lengthen the stride. If you are sitting the trot, your seat will have to follow the bigger strides. Half-halt before the next corner, readjust your seat to a regular stride length, and half-halt coming out of the corner.

What usually happens.

Chances are, your horse either speeds up or doesn't make any change at all.

In both cases, don't worry too much. Instead, go into the next circle, go through the set up and try again. The key is that you have to learn to do the allowing, and your horse has to learn to accept it. Many horses don't even recognize the allow initially. It takes time to learn how to let go.

There is also the strength factor in both of you. Your horse might be able to really give only a handful of lengthen strides before falling to the forehand or scrambling faster. You might fall behind the movement and inadvertently pull or interfere in some way.

It takes time for both of you to develop the core muscles necessary to lengthen. So don't be too hard on yourself or your horse. Whatever happens, just make a mental note and come back to it next time you ride. Don't expect it to happen overnight.

A good lengthen feels effortless. The strides bound down the rail and you can feel the surge of energy coming from the hind end. The horse should be forward-feeling, uphill and energetic. Bonus points if his ears are pointed forward and he calmly comes back to a working trot at the end!

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By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

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How To Stretch Your Horse Over The Topline

If horse movements were the letters in the alphabet, the "stretch" would be the letter E. Statistically, the letter E shows up more frequently in words of the English language than any other letter. You can find the letter E in every part of the word - from the beginning, to the middle, or even at the end. And so should the stretch be incorporated in exactly the same way during your rides.

If you are a yoga aficionado, you might relate better to thinking of the (horse) stretch over the topline as a sort of moving savasana - after completing a series of movements requiring contractions and releases (collection and extension), allow the horse to just "let go" for a few minutes, whether in walk, trot or canter, using the savasana-like stretch over the topline.

But don't just let the reins go to the buckle and become a blob on your horse's back. There is a real art to stretching the horse so that it is beneficial for him. If you just let the reins go, the horse has nothing to reach for and gets longer and longer (disengaged in the hind end), heavier and heavier (on the forehand) and hollower and hollower (over the back exactly where your weight is).

This sort-of stretch is not only counterproductive to the development of your horse's muscles, but also teaches him that he can't rely on you to be his partner in movement. If you drop him, he learns to drop you.

So what's the alternative? Here are the aids to develop a functional (or effective) stretch over the top line. You can stretch at any gait assuming that the horse doesn't just speed up and "run away". The stretch is most useful for encouraging the horse to release the muscles especially over the back and under the saddle.

1. Take Contact

Just be careful to not actually pull back. There is a difference between shortening the reins and feeling the horse's mouth, and pulling backwards on the rein. If you notice your elbows going further back than your torso, you are pulling too much. Just shorten the reins until you feel the pressure, and stay there.

2. Use Seat and Legs

This part is the the "ask" for the stretch. Use two legs together to engage the hind end. Immediately after that, the seat initiates and encourages the stretch by scooping up and forward to the front of the saddle. You can also lighten your seat - not by tilting your body forward (as in two point), but by just becoming lighter in the saddle.

Up till now, you still have the same level of contact that you established in part 1.

3. Allow the Horse to Pull the Reins Out of Your Hands

This is where things get tricky. Most people want to just throw the reins forward toward the horse's mouth. If you've ever tried it yourself, you'll know how it feels when something is just let go. Instead, you should wait for a few strides.

Once your horse takes pressure on the rein, you can let the reins out a tiny bit at a time. Even now, don't just throw the reins at the horse. Have a soft, marshmallow feel to the reins and let him take the reins out of your hands.

4. Stretch Forward and Down

This is critical. The whole point of the stretch is to elasticize the topline. To do that, the neck must move forward (to stretch the topline muscles) and down (to reach the muscles behind the wither area). So lengthening the neck straight ahead at the normal head height does not qualify for a stretch.

Of course, lengthening the neck up to the sky isn't the answer either, because the muscles behind the withers are not stretched and probably must even contract. There should be a round arc in the neck and steady contact to make it an active stretch.

5. Take the Nose Forward and Out

The key to the stretch is for the horse to take the nose forward and out at the bottom of the stretch. It shows a softness in the poll area and ensures that the stretch occurs "from the nose to the tail". If your horse stretches forward and down but keeps his head tucked under, don't worry too much but lightly push the reins forward to encourage him to take the nose forward.

Just keep that steady contact and wait for him to learn to take the reins forward even in that position. Keep asking with your aids (#2) and calmly and steadily wait with the contact. Let the reins out at the first hint of pressure from your horse.

What if your horse doesn't take the reins?

This happens all the time, especially for horses that are not used to stretching, or for riders who are new to it. There is nothing else to do - you can't take more pressure, kick more, lean forward, or get agitated. The only suggestion I have is to wait. Re-establish your contact, ask with your aids again (#2) and wait.

Look for any movement in the right direction. If your horse even thinks about taking the reins out of your hands, lighten your fingers - but don't throw the reins forward - and patiently wait for him to take the reins from you. It will come in time.

Incorporate the stretch at the beginning of your ride to loosen up his topline and set a calm, elastic frame of mind. Use the stretch at the end of the ride to "shake out" the muscles. Use it through your ride to reestablish a soft, swinging topline.

Once your horse discovers the stretch, he might want it periodically through your rides. Listen carefully and use the stretch like you'd use the letter E - all the time!

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Purpose:

Aids:

Exercise:

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Purpose:

Aids:

Exercise:

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Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises To Add Variety To Your Riding Routine

Purpose:

Goals:

Aids:

Trot Transition From the Walk

Start with a good walk.

Prepare to trot.

Trot.

Go!

Half-halt.

Walk Transition From the Trot

Start with a good trot.

Prepare to walk.

Walk.

Go!

Half-halt.

Exercise:

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Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

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Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success