lessons/training – Page 14

5 Steps to Effective Short Reins

Don't be intolerant of the short rein! Just as with any other movement and technique that is taught to horses, short reins can be very beneficial to the horse when applied correctly.

It's not that you should never ride in long reins - but many disciplines require shorter reins.

Simply put, the bit allows us to communicate effectively with our horses, keeping us safe on the back of the horse and permitting communication between two otherwise unlikely partners.

Reasons for A Short Rein Length

You might want a shorter rein length for several reasons:

Control

Let's face it - not every horse is so well trained that you can get away with very little direction from the mouth. In fact, we might even say that maybe only 5% of all horses are trained to that level. So yes, for the average rider and horse, we need the reins to indicate direction to the horse. We also need reins to slow or stop the energy, and we can even use the reins to redirect the energy to the hind end.

Horse's balance and well-being

The reins play a significant part in how the horse travels over ground, under the weight of the rider. Although the other aids also help the horse with balance, speed control and use of the body, the reins act as the final reinforcement.

If the horse travels long-term in a stretched out, disengaged body outline that is unhealthy for his muscles, joints and tendons, then his overall health will be affected. The reins do play an integral part in encouraging a strong body, controlled balance (that doesn't fall forward or "upside down") and regulation of the energy.

Different rein lengths affect the body of the horse differently. Sometimes, when you think you are being kind by letting the reins out, the horse has to change his balance in order to compensate for the longer body and the heavier weight on the forehand.

Connection/Timeliness

Riding a horse is all about asking and answering questions. There is constant communication going back and forth between the horse and rider primarily through the rider's aids (which include the seat, legs, hands, torso, etc.).

Rein length might affect the clarity of this communication and determines how clearly and quickly you can communicate with your horse.

5 Steps to Developing Comfort With A Short Rein Length

1. Shorten the Reins in Increments

Instead of just tightening and pulling on the reins (and effectively squishing the neck into a shorter length), shorten the whole body of the horse first. Use a series of half-halts to bring the hind end underneath, round the horse's overall body outline, and take up the rein as the horse's body gets rounder. This may take several half-halts. It might also take an entire warm-up with several exercises aimed at "bringing the horse's hind end under" so that the front end can come up and allow the shorter reins.

2. Recognize How Short is Short Enough

The length of the reins really depends on the horse's training level, strength and conformation. It isn't easy for the younger horse to maintain a body outline that allows for a very short rein; one horse's "short" may be longer than another's.

3. Achieve A Light Contact

In all disciplines, one of the goals of riding is to achieve lightness. A soft rein contact can only happen when the horse is truly straight and balanced. At this point, the reliance on the rein diminishes and you might discover that the pressure on the reins reduces not because you have lengthened the reins but because the horse is better able to control his balance and level of collection.

Creating space without letting the reins out is one method of developing lightness in contact.

4. Less is More

When it really comes down to it and once you have your others aids in place, you can use the reins only for intermittent, subtle use. But be forewarned: it will take time, infinite patience and practice, and determination for you to get to this level and for your horse to respond at this level. Don't be discouraged if you find yourself grappling with the physical coordination it takes to get to this point.

Your communication will occur more through your body than through your hands, and your horse will become more "in tune" with your subtle weight shifts and seat aids.

5. Better Understanding

At this point, both you and the horse have progressed through to a higher level of training and know better what to expect in your work. Thanks to this better understanding, the horse requires less guidance, especially from the front end.

So there you have it! Of course, I know this is purely my take on a sometimes controversial and complicated subject.

What are your thoughts? Have you been able to achieve a light but short rein contact? Is there anything you'd like to add in the comment section?

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?

By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

- the rider’s aids

- the use of the seat

- the half-halt

- accurate turns and circles

- transitions

- horse ownership and horse care

- goal setting for the rider

- rein lameness

… and much more!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Find the Space Between the Give and Take in Horse Riding

Scene 1

The rider holds the reins tightly, pulling backward, providing little give and take through the arms, elbows and shoulders. The tension radiates through the rider's body to create a tight back, an unmoving seat, and clinging legs.

The horse may or may not have a tightness to the neck, but because of the pull on the reins, there is little opportunity for him to balance using his head and neck. His strides are short, his back may be hollow and he is likely on the forehand.

Scene 2

The rider lets the reins out to the point of creating a "loop". There is no contact with the mouth, other than at points of time when the rider needs to communicate something: stop, turn or downward transition.

The horse's neck and body is l-o-n-g and strung out. Hind legs are stepping out behind the horse's croup. This horse is also probably on the forehand and hollow in the back but for completely the opposite reasons.

So whether it is a perpetually pulling hand or an occasionally rough, abrupt hand, you must know that every time you use your hands improperly, you are assuring your horse shortened usefulness and an unhappy life. - Charles de Kunffy, The Ethics and Passions of Dressage, p. 60

There is no doubt that there is more to riding than just what the hands are doing. We already know that the seat, legs and hands together are actors in the same performance and must work in combination. But for the purposes of explanation, let's do an in-depth analysis of the role of the hands.

The scenes above demonstrate the extremes of what can be done with the reins: too much contact versus not enough contact. You've probably watched both types of riders at different times, or maybe you've explored or experienced both ends of the pendulum yourself.

Eventually, with enough experience, we learn that neither technique represents an exclusive path to effective riding. As with so many other things in life, we need to find the happy medium.

Try This

1. Find the correct placement of your hands and arms. Your elbows should have a nice soft almost "L" bend in them and hang in line with your body. Your hands should be in front of the pommel, no more than four inches higher, forward, sideways or backward (we call this the four-inch box).

2. Your hands cannot move backward from the box. In other words, you won't pull back and your elbows won't go back past your body line.

3. Your hands cannot move past the front of the box. In other words, you won't push the reins ahead or open your elbows so that your arms straighten.

4. Your hands can give and take within the four-inch parameters of the box - but the catch is that the give and take comes from your elbows, not your fingers! The rein length should not change during the give or take (although you may need to readjust your rein length from time to time if the reins slip through your fingers or you intentionally want to lengthen or shorten them).

Keep your reins short enough to allow you to provide support instantly, but also long enough to allow for the horse's level of training and muscle development.

And that's it! From here, you can ride as usual from the seat and legs, and reinforce your aids with the hands.

If the horse pulls, you resist with a bracing from your elbows and seat. But you don't pull back.

If you want to give a release, only slightly open your elbows to create a little space forward in the horse's mouth so he feels a supported freedom (i.e. not thrown away) to move into that space. Do not lengthen the reins out or straighten your elbows.

The give and take should be so invisible that only you and the horse know it happened. Anything bigger and the horse's balance will be affected. Ideally, you should alternate between a give and take as needed depending on the horse's balance and the movement being performed.

Do you have any other tips for finding the space between the give and take? Comment below.

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New! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

If you enjoyed the above article, you might also like to read:

The #1 Rider Problem: The Outside Rei n! The outside rein is the most underused and poorly understood of all the aids, and here’s why.

From a Whisper to a Scream: How Loud Should Our Aids Really Be? Should we be “loud” in our aids, or should we be working as softly as we can in hopes that our horse can respond to lighter and more refined aids?

Interpreting the Half-Halt: This topic is a tricky one but here is a shot at it.

How to Halt Without Pulling on the Reins: There is a way to get your horse to stop without pulling on the reins.

Stepping “Forward” in Horse Riding: The term ‘forward’ is used liberally in horse riding but is often misunderstood.

16 Ways to Not Become Bored During Your Ride

Riders sometimes complain that riding in a ring can become too boring. If you're bored, your horse is certain to be bored too. But there are literally hundreds of exercises you can do with your horse if you are creative enough. Here is a list of just a few ideas to keep ring riding fresh and interesting for both you and your horse.

1. Ask for more "go" and stay for the ride! Don't let go of the reins but also don't pull (and maybe half-halt if your horse loses balance a bit to the forehand) and don't get left behind.

2. Try a "loop": coming out of the corner, head on a diagonal line toward the 1/4 line, then head back into the next corner. This will require your horse to go from one bend to another and back, all along one length of the ring.

3. Try a loop in the canter - this introduces a counter-canter - what fun! Stay fairly straight in the counter canter - don't bend too far to the inside.

4. Count a certain number of strides per transition. For example, aim for 5 walk strides, 10 canter strides and then 8 trot strides. Go back to the walk and try it all again.

5. Try a figure 8 or two: one way is to use the diagonals and ends of the arena. The 8 should cross exactly over "x" (the middle of the ring). Another way is to make the 8 look like two balls attached in the middle (like a snowman), with the circles being more in the center of the ring, off the rails. This one is more challenging for the horse - one circle tends to be larger than the other, and the change through the short center tends to be more difficult.

6. Do a figure 8 with canter on one circle and trot on the other. Transition right in the middle of the 8.

7. Play with transitions: canter - to halt - to back up 5 strides - to canter.

8. Ride right into the corner of the ring and maintain the strength of your stride whether in walk, trot or canter. Keep a true bend as you enter the corner, and increase impulsion as you exit.

9. Do 4 circles as you go around the ring at A, E, C and B (dressage ring letters), one a little larger or smaller than the others. Be really picky about exact size and shape of each circle, and maintain a bend corresponding to the size of the

10 . Play with the canter-trot to increase impulsion and get the horse to reach further underneath with the hind end.

11. Try the not-canter to improve your transitions from trot to canter.

12. Do a circle at A. After completing the circle, head into the corner with a good bend, straighten up to come out, and fly through the diagonal in a lengthen or medium trot. Finish by doing a circle in the opposite direction at C. When your horse gets good at the bend changes, add an additional variable of changing gaits at each circle.

13. Circle at A, lengthen across the diagonal, come off the short end at the 3/4 line and leg-yield to the rail.

14. Do a 3-loop serpentine and work on correct bend to bend with a true straight line in the middle.

15. Play with the serpentine: maintain all as in #14, but change gaits from loop to loop.

16. Accordion your horse: on a large 20m circle, get the horse to stretch down and out with the neck (with light contact on the reins), then come up and shorter in the neck (engage the hind end to raise the neck), then stretch down and out again. This can be very difficult as there is variation in the balance of the horse, as well as in the length of the back and neck. Be sure to use many half-halts to maintain balance through the changes of body posture.

Well, you get the idea. I'm sure you can think of other fun exercises you can work into your regular ring ride. Be creative, decide what you want to do and build your ride into a series of exercises that develop from one to the other. Challenge yourself and your horse and you will never again be bored by the four walls that surround you!

Do you have any other interesting exercises? Share them in the comments below!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Personally signed books available! Just send me a message.

Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?

By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

- the rider’s aids

- the use of the seat

- the half-halt

- accurate turns and circles

- transitions

- horse ownership and horse care

- goal setting for the rider

- rein lameness

… and much more!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Why Rising Trot Is Not Rising At All

posting — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Not all rising trots are equal.

There are three reasons we rise at the trot. First, we might want to take our weight off the horse's back - and the easiest way to do it is to rise (or "post") every other stride in rhythm with the horse's movement.

Second, maybe we want the horse to have the opportunity to reach further underneath his body with his hind leg. By rising while the outside shoulder reaches forward (called rising on the correct "diagonal" leg), we remove our weight from the saddle just as the horse's inside hind leg comes off the ground. This encourages and allows the horse to step deeper with the inside hind leg, which is the balancing leg especially on a turn.

Third, we can influence the horse's activity level - we can change horse's leg speed by posting faster or slower. The horse tends to follow the tempo of our seat, and if we can control that tempo, we can be more effective without ever having to go to the hands or legs.

The next time you go to a show, or visit the barn when there is a riding lesson, stop and analyze the way that the riders ride the horse's trot.

Look for the riders that appear to be working most in tandem with the horse and then watch their technique. What do you notice?

They don't move up and down.

Instead, they move forward and back within the movement of the horse.

That is, their pelvis comes forward to the top of the pommel, hovers there for a moment (or even two), and then gently settles back into the saddle, off the cantle (ideally). The "forward" movement follows an upward arc toward the pommel, and the "back" follows a similar arc.

The knees are soft and the angles demonstrate little change.

What they are not doing is standing up and down in the saddle.

There is very little rise. Why not?

When you move straight up and down, you fall behind the horse's movement. As you work to regain your lost balance, you come back down heavily and push your weight straight down to the ground. This might shorten the horse's stride, throw him off balance by putting him to the forehand, and may even cause back discomfort over the long term.

Stay in balance in the trot.

If you can move forward and back with the horse's movement, you can maintain a much more organic balance.

Use the trot bounce to send your pelvis on the arc toward the top of the pommel and steady yourself at the top of the movement with your inner thighs. Then arc back with control so you can mindfully rest on the horse, causing as little discomfort and interference as possible.

If you can move efficiently within the horse's movement, you can even influence the horse's length of stride and speed. You can slow down the horse by slowing your posting down, or conversely, you can speed him up.

The next time you ride, pay close attention to your rising trot technique and play with forward/back versus up/down.

Then let us know what you think in the comment section below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Buy the books for many more riding tips! Horse Listening Book Collection.

Personally signed books available! Just send me a message.

Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?

By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

- the rider’s aids

- the use of the seat

- the half-halt

- accurate turns and circles

- transitions

- horse ownership and horse care

- goal setting for the rider

- rein lameness

… and much more!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

“Go and No”: The Connection Between Forward and Half-Halt in Horse Riding

Without forward, there is no half-halt but without half-halt, there is no forward. (Click to tweet this if you agree.)

Let me explain.

Has it ever happened to you that after you kicked (or preferably, didn't kick but used more seat/leg for energy), the horse flew out from under you, running faster and faster until he fell to the forehand and perhaps had to scramble his way back to balance?

Or conversely...

Has it ever happened that you went to half-halt (or check) and the horse braced his neck against your pressure, slowed the rhythm and reduced energy until you thought you were stuck in quicksand?

In both cases, there is one aid given to the horse but the other is missing. And there seems to be no other way: if you want to control energy, you have to have energy in the first place. If there is no energy, there is no controlling.

What to do?

We have to learn the coordination between "go and no" - all the while, keeping our balance to give the appropriate aids while not pulling on the reins.

Try this:

Teach your horse to kick (not literally!) into gear when you use a light leg and encouraging seat (that floats right into the movement that your horse offers). Then, before it's too late and he loses balance completely, use a restricting seat, contact with your (probably outside) rein, and a little leg to help the horse's hind end to come underneath his body.

See if he steps deeper underneath his body, rounds more, becomes bouncier, and breathes deeper (or gives you a well-earned snort). Look for more swing in his stride, more reach through his shoulders, and a lighter contact pressure on the reins.

The rhythm should be unaffected. A half-halt is a re-balance; it isn't a "putter down into the slower gait little by little and let the energy peter out." Therefore, the idea isn't to interfere with the horse's gait and tempo. Instead, your aim is to celebrate the energy your horse gives you and redirect it not only straight forward, but also a little upward, so the overall balance tilts a little to the hind end.

Keep your balance.

Encourage more energy.

Keep the tempo the same (not faster or slower).

Get the "go", then get the "no".

And let us know how it works out in the comment section below.

****

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

More articles you might enjoy:

Stepping “Forward” in Horse Riding: The term ‘forward’ is used liberally in horse riding but is often misunderstood.

The #1 Problem of the Year: The Outside Rein! The outside rein is the most underused and poorly understood of all the aids, and here’s why.

6 Ways to Unleash the Power of Your Riding Seat: As you become more subtle in the aiding process, you will begin to discover just how powerful the seat can be in guiding the horse without disturbing and interfering in his movement.

Top 10 Ways to Reward Your Horse: A happy horse is a willing partner, and many horses will give everything they have if they feel your acknowledgement and generosity of spirit.

Demystifying “Contact” in Horseback Riding: Does “contact” have other-wordly connotations? Here is why effective contact is within reach of the average rider.

How to Improve the Sewing-Machine Trot

trot stride — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

It's called a sewing-machine trot because of the up-and-down movement of the legs. We sometimes call the horse a "leg-mover" and basically mean the same thing.

Essentially, the horse lacks adequate length of stride in the movement.

The legs move but the body does not go anywhere. The horse does not use his torso in the movement. Rather, he is often tight and tense through the body, and there is little swinging in the gait. Sometimes, we mistake the lack of progress as smoothness, but it really is rigidity in horse's the back and joints.

It is easy to get fooled into thinking that the sewing-machine trot is a good trot. When you are on the horse, the frenetic movement might make you think that the horse is working well. It is moving, after all!

But what is sometimes less apparent is that all the movement happens without support from the hind end.

Clues

In fact, the back is often hollow and the energy does not flow back to front. The head may be held high, the base of the neck low, and the majority of the horse's weight falls to the forehand.

One of the easiest identification factors of the sewing-machine trot is lack of "tracking up". The hind leg stride is so short that it falls one or two footprint lengths short of stepping into the front footprints.

You might also notice that the front legs take a bigger stride than the hind legs. In pictures, the hind legs appear close together underneath the hind end area, rather than drawing equal an upside-down "v" with the one made by the front legs.

What To Do

First, slow the legs down. Reduce the tempo and allow the horse to get better balance. Let his feet catch up to his body, so he doesn't feel like is constantly running away.

Second, once you feel the tempo become more reasonable, address the hind end. Ask for more engagement by using the canter-trot or a similar exercise. Just be careful to not allow the tempo to increase again. Speed is not the intention.

Third, after you feel the burst of engagement, use a half-halt to balance the energy. Don't let it go "out the front end" - rather, contain it and allow the energy to create a longer stride and more movement over the back.

Look for a slower rhythm, but a stronger energy surge. Feel more bounce to the movement. Notice the horse naturally want to round more and reach better for the bit.

Through it all, avoid pulling back. Instead, keep working on half-halts, impulsion and a resulting slow(er) rhythm.

How do you improve the quality of the sewing-machine trot?

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Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Please enjoy other articles here:

Secrets to a Great Turn (a.k.a. Shift Out to Turn In): Can you tell if your horse uses his hind end before taking the first step in the new direction, or does he feel stiff and awkward, almost like he’s leaving his legs behind the movement?

Don’t Mistake the Halt For a Stop! Don’t do it! Don’t mistake the halt for a stop. They are two entirely different maneuvers.

How the “Not Canter” Can Drastically Improve Your Transitions: Every time you ask (with the correct aids), the horse resists. The situation becomes ugly – you have a hard enough time just sitting the bounciness, never mind getting the transition. What to do? This article remains one of our most popular posts of all-time.

The #1 Problem of the Year: The Outside Rein! The outside rein is the most underused and poorly understood of all the aids, and here’s why.

What To Do When Your Horse Isn’t Being Cute

As we identified in the last post, some horse behaviors that we might think of as being cute might carry different connotations when deciphered from a herd animal's perspective. This time, we will analyze examples of specific behaviors and what you might be able to do about them.

What NOT to do:

Don't get mad.

Don't get even.

Don't lose your cool.

Although these are just suggestions, remember that there is rarely a need to get mad and become physically aggressive to get a result. Stay calm, be purposeful and most especially, be consistent.

****Please always remember: when working with, on or around horses, always make decisions that ensure your safety as well as the horse's safety. If in doubt, back off and reevaluate before things escalate.****

Pawing

Horse Speak Definition: In general, pawing is a sign of impatience or anxiety. The horse wants to move.

What To Do: If the horse is being held by a handler (for example, in a show environment), then by all means, allow the horse to go for a walk. Better yet, use the energy to teach or perfect something while the horse is walking. Try getting the horse to step away from you as he is walking. Can he cross his legs (front only, back only, both front and back) while he is walking?

Walking off might not be suitable in all situations. If the horse is in cross-ties in the barn, you can still easily stop the pawing by picking one foot and asking it to step forward/back/ forward/back until the horse is ready to stop moving. Then give the horse the opportunity to stop. If he isn't ready to stop, go to it again!

Head Nodding

Horse Speak Definition: Head nodding is also another sign of excess energy or tension.

What To Do: Change the topic and do some of the same things suggested for pawing. Always aim to get the horse to step away from you rather than step into you so that you demonstrate your leadership to him.

Pushing you out of the way

Horse Speak Definition: This one can become very dangerous since every time the horse gets you to move away from him, he will become more and more convinced of his leadership over you. As you may notice in any turn-out field, the dominant horse usually gets his way and tells all the other horses what to do and where to go. Becoming the secondary citizen in your herd of two may not suit you well since you are also one-sixth the size of the horse and can be very easily hurt!

What To Do: Once again, be sure to assert your leadership. Decide on a personal space "bubble" around you that the horse should not enter. Then, before the horse steps into that space, push him out - first, with your body language (step into his space) and if he does not respond to that social cue, then follow through by pushing him away with the lead rope or bridle reins. He must never get closer to you, even while walking beside you, than what you've decided is a safe personal space around you.

Dragging you along on the lead

Horse Speak Definition: Something else (other than you) requires much more urgent attention of the horse. He is knowingly or unknowingly disregarding your communications and going where he needs to go.

What To Do: This behavior is the opposite of the one above. Should your horse drag you, do your best to stop and assume one position. Then swing his head around in a way that makes him turn to face you. Maybe you can back him up a few steps after he stops and looks at you. Maybe you ask him to step sideways away from you for a set number of footfalls.

Try walking ahead after you feel he is softly compliant. If he goes to drag you off again, go back to moving his feet where you want them to go. In all cases, do not allow him to continue taking you for a walk! Treat this behavior seriously as there is great danger of you getting hurt.

Nibbling on your hat or hair

Horse Speak Definition: Isn't it so cute when your horse reaches forward with a lovingly stretched out neck and gently nibbles on your hair or hat? NO!

Again, in the herd, the dominant horse is the one that does the nibbling. Please be assured that what you think of as being cute is a completely different message to the horse: that he is boss and you should do what he says.

What To Do: This one is easy to prevent - just don't tempt him with your hat, hair, or anything else for that matter! Stay out of his nibbling zone and consistently establish your personal space bubble.

Begging for treats

Horse Speak Definition: As humans, we get a pleasure rush when we do something nice for someone else. We especially enjoy sharing meals and treats together - sharing food is simply in our nature.

Unfortunately, herd dynamics don't follow human social norms. The only time one horse gives another horse food (or gets out of the way) is when the second horse is dominant over the first.

Every time you give a treat to your horse, you are communicating to him that he is the leader in your herd of two. This might not be a problem for some time, but should your normally gentle and sweet horse start becoming demanding and pushy, you can blame it on the repeated communication you've been giving him.

What To Do: One option is to refrain from ever giving your horse treats by hand. Some people always stick to this rule. If you must hand feed treats, be sure to avoid giving the treat at the first sign of aggressive behavior from your horse. Establish clear parameters and be consistent. If in doubt, go back to option 1!

Stomping feet or turning your way when you touch an area

Horse Speak Definition: The horse is uncomfortable for some reason and is making it clear that you should get out of his space.

What To Do: First, find out if there is truly a physical discomfort. Perhaps you will need a veterinarian to check the horse and see if there is a problem with that area.

If it is likely that the horse is being aggressive, then look to either change the behavior (redirect the energy and get the horse to move specific feet, as in pawing and head nodding above) or simply push the horse out of your personal space. Make it clear that you can move his feet and assume the leader position in the "herd" dynamic.

In all the above examples, the key thing to remember is that the horse is simply communicating to you in the way he knows how. It is your duty to understand "horse speak" and negotiate through all the herd dynamic social rules. The better you understand the "horse" definitions behind your actions, the quicker you will be in knowing how to prevent unwanted behavior, and knowing what to do about it.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

If you liked this article, you might also enjoy:

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Speaking “Horse” (a.k.a. “Pushing the Envelope”): Horses send messages out as much as humans do. Once you know how to listen to your horse, a whole world of communication can open up for you.

How To Be An Active Horseback Rider (a.k.a. Riding With Intention): What do you do when your ride isn’t going as planned? How do you respond when your horse scoots out from under you, spooks at the horse-killing object, or flat out ignores you?

Take the Credit, Bad AND Good: In our quest for balance (not just on the kind on the back of the horse), it is essential for us to look at our achievements from both angles.

Why A Release Is Not A Let Go in Horseback Riding

Release your seat after the half-halt.

Release your legs when the horse moves away from pressure.

Release your aids to reward the horse.

Release the inside rein to allow the horse to bend deeper to the inside.

Sometimes, we use the word "give" in place of release. Please use it interchangeably here.

In horseback riding, we can release any aid at any time: the reins, the seat, the legs. Regardless of riding discipline, we have to release our horses for hundreds of reasons. We use that word so many times in so many ways. But do we know what it really means?

Many people interpret the term literally as it sounds like it should be - a freedom, a giving away or a letting go of the aids. But in riding, a true release is more complicated than simply dropping everything!.

****

Let's change topics for just one minute to illustrate the point.

Do you watch any of the world figure skating championships? As I admire the exquisite coordination of the pairs and dance skaters, I am reminded of the level of harmony we need to produce with our horses to show a similar fluidity of movement (of course, anything I watch becomes somehow related to horseback riding - hehe).

So here is the scene: the guy lifts the girl, they do an intricate twist and thingy in the air, and then he "releases" her back to the ice. When you watch them, you see how carefully he carries her back down. What he doesn't do is drop her - or, simply let go.

****

The horse has four legs and he won't fall when you let go. It is true. We see riders "let go" of their horses all the time, and rarely do the horses fall to the ground (although some might stumble or trip). Thankfully, the horses hold their own and make up for the rider's lack of timing or aids or knowledge. But what does suffer is the horse's (and by extension, the rider's) balance.

Some horses lose confidence in their riders. Others learn to tune their riders out and just truck along on their own. Many plod along on their forehand year after year, doomed to some sort of lameness due to incorrect movement.

In any case, communication suffers, sometimes without the rider even knowing it.

What to do?

What not to do: let go.

Don't let go of your reins. Don't let go of your seat. Don't take your legs off the horse. Don't flop in the saddle.

Instead, work on a gradual giveaway.

Slowly reduce the pressure.

Leave your legs on but become less active.

Hold your own body but go more with the horse.

Keep a soft, delicate finger contact on the reins so your horse knows you are still talking to him.

Under all circumstances, maintain your balance.

Look for any and all reasons to release your aids.

Don't we all wish we could ride in lightness and complete balance? Just be weary of stopping or giving away or letting go completely.

Try to ride with the horse and work towards harmony and connectedness. Listen carefully to discover when your horse needs your support and when you should allow him to find his own way. There is a happy medium somewhere in between let go and absolute control.

If you can find it, you may also find a happier, more confident horse!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

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Riding Straight Through the Turn: Although it sounds like an oxymoron, travelling straight through a turn is essential in maintaining the balance of the horse.

Stepping Out of Rein Lameness: Often, problems caused by riding can be fixed with riding. It is just a matter of knowing what to do in order to counteract the problems.

Do You Make This Timing Mistake When Riding Your Horse? Have you ever given your horse an aid and got nothing in return? There could be one other variable that you might not have considered…

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