7 Essential Aids For An Epic Canter Transition

When you first learn to canter, it's about all you can do to get the horse to change his legs from a two-beat trot to a three-beat canter. You do pretty much anything you can to make the transition happen - lean forward, kick, kick harder, kick some more, let the reins go, use your voice....

You might feel like the canter is a huge speed-up from the trot, and when the horse finally does canter, the euphoric feeling of strength and power sends you into a rocking horse motion that just can't really be adequately described to the non-rider.

But then you get better at it.

You realize that the canter departure doesn't have to resemble a rocket launch. You develop your aids till both you and your horse look a lot more civilized - and a lot less frantic. At some point, you realize that you can trot, maintain the trot rhythm, and elegantly step into the canter. Your aids become invisible, prompting less educated onlookers to think that the horse is reading your mind.

So how exactly do you develop an epic canter transition? How do the aids become refined enough to create a smooth, balanced and active upward transition? In the following seven steps, I've tried to break down each component of the transition in order to explain the nuances that go into a split-second movement! Although it might seem a little complicated, I hope that it can describe each moment that goes into a better developed canter departure.

Once you know each part that goes into the one movement, you might be able to problem-solve your departures with your horse and focus on one or two aspects as needed.

1. It All Starts With the Seat

Well, we already know this. But how does the seat exactly play into the transition? First off, your seat should be trotting when the horse is trotting. So if you are sitting the trot, your seat bones are actually moving in the rhythm of the trot. Be sure to promote a strong but not fast rhythm - one that your horse finds easy to move in while remaining supple.

If you are posting the trot, sit the last few strides before the canter. Use your seat to draw up the horse's hind legs, asking for more impulsion.

2. Use the Inside Leg/Outside Rein

The inside leg has a very important job in this moment. Apply the whole leg (from ankle up) at the girth to ask the horse for a mild bend to prepare for the inside lead. If your horse has a tendency to lean in just before the transition, your inside leg becomes even more critical in helping the horse maintain balance by not allowing him to drop his rib cage toward the middle of the ring.

The outside rein does little except to act as a "neck rein" - the one that sits onto the horse's neck and prevents him from drifting to the outside. It also can apply the half-halt aids before and after the departure.

3. Half-Halt Preparation

Do one or two or three half-halts before the transition.

We often tend to "throw everything away" (as in, lengthen the reins, take the legs off the horse, fall to the horse's front) as we head into the gait change. Fight that impulse and instead, keep the horse together. Keep yourself together!

Falling to the forehand and trotting faster before the canter almost always ensures a low-quality canter gait. Although the horse might transition, he will likely be on the forehand, braced in his neck and jaw and hollow in his back. He will also likely fall back to the trot sooner than later, no matter what you do to keep him going because he simply can't maintain his balance.

Instead, after you ask for impulsion, half-halt the horse to balance his weight to the hind end. Keep your legs on for impulsion after the half-halt.

4. Use the Outside Leg - Ask For the Lead

The outside leg initiates the lead. Some people call it a "windshield wiper" motion: swing your lower leg behind the girth to ask for the first stride. The horse's outside hind leg should strike off into the lead as your leg reaches back.

5. Canter With Your Seat

So far, your seat should have been trotting. Now, it needs to transition. So you go from two seat bones moving in tandem with the horse in the trot, to a canter motion with the inside seat bone leading (to allow for the horse to take the inside lead). Your seat now needs to promote the canter movement - swinging back and forth thanks to your supple lower back.

Keep your shoulders fairly still by moving through your back. The swinging movement allows for the illusion of your shoulders staying still while the horse is moving.

6. Use the Half-Halt Again

Just because the horse is now in canter doesn't mean that you should stop riding! Many of us tend to freeze in our aids, opting instead to just hang on to the increased movement of the canter. Well, as soon as you have enough balance and are able, ride actively again.

Half-halt - once, twice, three times maybe - in the rhythm of the canter. This helps the horse to stay "together" after the transition. The sudden surge of energy needs to be controlled so that it doesn't just fall on the horse's shoulders and forehand.

7. Canter on!

Now all you have to do is commit to the horse's movement. Your seat should allow the movement that your horse offers, and it's your job to not let your upper body fall forward/backward/sideways while your seat follows, follows and follows (unless you do another half-halt).

* * * *
When you first start paying attention to each of these aspects of the canter transition, you might need to actually think through every part, talking your body into the necessary activity while negotiating the canter movement. But rest assured - with practice and time, things become more and more automatic, and then you can focus more on your horse's specific needs.

Though we are talking about so many steps all subdivided here, in reality, it all comes together within a few seconds - from preparation, to the request, strike-off and follow-through. Eventually, it happens so seamlessly that the departure becomes just a quick thought - one that transpires between both you and your horse in an epic, seemingly mind-reading fashion!

How do you ask your horse for the canter? Let us know if there is anything missing in the comments below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the first book in the Horse Listening Collection: Horse Listening, The Book

"There are many reasons why we enjoy riding horses. Maybe one of the most appealing facets of riding is the sense of freedom: freedom from our own limitations, freedom from gravity, freedom to (literally) roam the Earth. Time stands still while we have the privilege of feeling movement from the back of our four-legged friend. Riding gives us the place to just be.

Of course, there are other purposes too. Some of us revel in the challenge of learning the skills required to becoming a good team member of this unlikely duo. Riding is like no other sport or recreational pursuit simply because of the equine partner that must not only carry us, but also do so effortlessly and gracefully. As we develop our specific skill sets, we also grow as human beings in character, emotional maturity and mental acuity.

But there is one other motivation that drives some of us to persevere in the never-ending learning process that is horseback riding: improving the horse. As your own skills develop, you begin to realize that not only can you meet your own needs through riding, but also that you can even become an instrument of benefit for the horse."

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Where Does Your Half-Halt Start? Here Are Four Suggestions

The term "half-halt" is used in the English riding disciplines, and the Western folks call it a "check". In both cases and regardless of bit type and rein length, the feeling that goes through your body is the same. Because under most circumstances, the half-halt shouldn't start from your hands.

What it's not:

- a jerk

- a strong and steady pullback

- a taking up of rein followed by a full drop of rein

- a sideways movement of the reins either left or right or both

- a turning of the wrists downward

Technically, it's not something done by the hand. Although the hand certainly plays a role in the end of the sequence of aids, it shouldn't be where the aids begin. And it can't be active through the beginning, middle and end of the half-halt.

Because just messing around in the horse's mouth isn't where the riding's at! (Click here to tweet if you agree)

The Whole Body Half-Halt

Good riders ride from the body.

They use their seat, their torso, their abs, their legs. They stay tall and supple in their position, and rather than allowing the horse to carry their weight in the mouth (through an unreleasing rein aid), they influence their horse through every other aid possible. The hands become the icing on the cake after the body has done the talking.

In all the cases below, the hands strive to do nothing but stay lightly closed and steady. They should take up the rein contact so that the horse can feel some pressure, but they don't use pressure to cause pain in the mouth. Instead, they work with the torso to send one collaborative message to the horse. The elbows should be on the body, softly bent and allowing or resisting as needed. The rein and the bit in the horse's mouth should be the last part of the aid sequence.

Since we've already talked incessantly about the half-halt, go here to find out what it is and here to figure out how to say "go" and "no" at almost the same moment.

Before we can talk about how to do the half-halt itself, be sure that you do, in fact, have some "go". You can't use any of the aids below if there is no energy forward to start with. So first, "go".

Then, let's take a closer look at where the half-halt actually originates.

1. The Seat

Most half-halts will originate at the seat. This is the area that is in direct contact with the saddle, and the root of our balance and position. By resisting the horse's movement through your seat, you will bring the horse's energy and weight more to his hind end and therefore off his forehand.

So as he goes along, you can either flow along (release) or resist (brace) to stop his forward (and maybe downward) energy. You can tighten through your legs, your thighs and "grip" more with your rear end (!!).

In any case, the horse will feel this through the saddle. His response will come from his back rather than his mouth. Beware of using too strong a seat and stifling the horse's flow of energy. You want to resist for a few strides, in rhythm with the horse's movement, and then release.

2. The Lower Back

You can focus your attention a little higher in your back, to the lumbar area. Rather than gripping with your seat, your back does most of the resisting. In making a slight backward motion in rhythm with your horse's strides, the lower back can send a softer, less demanding half-halt.

Use this starting point for a "ballerina" horse - the one that doesn't need much input and responds quickly and honestly.

3. The Upper Back

This half-halt helps the horse lift the front end more than the others. If you begin your aid from just behind your shoulder blades, you can influence the horse's head height and the amount of weight he is putting on his front legs.

Use this starting point for the "rooters" - the horses that grab the bit and plow down to the ground. It gives you a nice alternative to just slamming the horse in the mouth with the bit. This way, he learns to actually rebalance himself rather than having to deal with pain in his mouth.

4. The Hands

Did I just say that the half-halt shouldn't start at the hands? Well, there might be one time when you can use just finger strength (although your arms are still part of your torso as you move along with your horse).

If your horse is already on your aids, and he feels soft and supple and is confidently moving along, you might want to just not stop your communication with him. You might want to keep the flexion of his head, or softly touch his tongue to prepare for a transition. You might want to just continue "talking" to him so that he doesn't end up tuning you out.

Use your fingers. Keep the same lightly-closed fist, but soften and tighten your fingers within that fist. Some people call it "squeezing a sponge" because that's what it should feel like. Pay close attention and see if you can literally feel the horse's tongue in your fingers.

Just remember that you can't do even this lightest of half-halts without the seat and the body. The hands must be a part of the body's communicating aids and not acting on their own.

So there you have it. I use these half-halt locations interchangeably, depending on the horse and how he feels. I find it helps to zero in on the specific body parts so that you can intentionally send the message you want to send.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the book:

Riding gives us the place to just be.

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

The Art of Slowing Your Horse’s Leg Speed Down Without Losing Energy

Many horses tend to just go faster faster when you ask for more energy. They translate leg aids to leg speed, thereby coming more to the forehand, heavier on the reins and less balanced.

We often talk about how good tempo is one of the most basic aspects of good riding. When you find the "right" tempo for your horse, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover that the balance and weight can improve with little effort on your part. Your reins lighten up. You stop feeling like you're on a roller coaster going down.

In our previous article, we talked about why you should help your horse slow the legs down. Now, let's see how you can establish a calmer, more reasonable tempo that will allow your horse to swing more through the back, stride deeper under the body and carry the rider's weight with better strength.

1. Slow Down the Legs

Sounds easy and fairly obvious. First off, just get the horse to stop the leg speed. Do this fairly quickly. In other words, don't let the horse go around the ring a few times before you start to ask him to slow down.

As soon as your horse speeds up, slow him down. It is your job to be as clear as you can be in your aids. Explain to him that your impulsion aids do not translate into leg speed. Teach him that he can accept your aids without feeling like he has to brace, go faster, or otherwise become uncomfortable.

Some horses need more convincing than others to slow down. It depends on how sure they are about running "away" from your aids - if you have been letting them run for a long time, you will have to repeat and be patient. Do as much as you need, but as little as possible to get the legs to slow down. This is the first step.

2. Accept Under Power

The next thing that usually happens is that the horse thinks that he has to stop everything. Maybe he breaks to a walk or halt. Maybe he just does this low energy, super strung out under power trot.

But there is more to it than that. Because if you just slow the legs down, you will likely lose a lot of the energy at the same time. In that case, the horse moves his legs slowly, but continues to arch his back and drop his neck because he has to. There is no energy available for him to lift his back to carry the weight of the rider.

So it isn't really only about slowing the legs.

The key to finding the horse's ideal tempo is to slow the legs while maintaining energy.

If, after you slow down the legs, you feel like you and your horse have fallen into quicksand, and each step feels like it has to drag to the next step, you know that's not what you wanted.

Here are the steps to finding energy while slowing down.

3. Gently Allow More Energy

If you soften your body and begin to move along with the horse, he will often offer more energy once he settles into the rhythm. You should just ride when he offers an increase in impulsion. Pet him lightly when you feel him take initiative.

If the horse doesn't offer, then ask in increments. When the horse goes to speed his legs, half-halt to slow down again. Ask for more energy but half-halt the speed. Do this over and over again until the horse maintains the leg speed but starts to engage through the hind end.

Keep in mind that you are part of the equation here too. If you ask for energy but then speed up your posting rate, then the horse will automatically speed up his legs to keep up. So when you ask for energy, make sure you "hover" on the forward phase of the post just a split second longer. Don't fall back to the saddle - carry your own weight down slowly enough to not disrupt the horse's speed.

4. Find the Balance Between Slow But Strong

Sometimes, the horse might slow down and not even know that he can increase his energy. This horse needs gentle encouragement to allow the energy through his body.

Other times, the horse might fluctuate between fast/slow/fast/slow. In this case, it's your job to be the metronome for the horse, and to dictate the slower leg speed after you ask for more energy. This horse might become confused because he is sure that your leg/seat aids mean faster leg speed. You have to take the time to change your "language" so that he understands that increased energy does not mean increased leg speed. This horse might need weeks of practice before he is convinced that leg speed is not what you're after.

5. Ride With Commitment

Once you find the energy, you have to ride differently. You can't just push him along and let him brace. So you have to hold your own weight, release a little more through your own back, control your post in the slower rhythm, and basically "be there" with your horse in an energy-but-not-speed feel.

It's Easier Said Than Done!

As with most things in riding, changing your internal speed, increasing your internal energy and putting it all together can be quite the challenge. Because, as with all things riding, it starts with you. But it is possible and even if you've never thought about the horse's leg speed, you can do it with some intention.

You know you're on the right track when your horse takes his first few "swinging" steps in slowness. You can feel it through the saddle, with a sudden trampoline-y feeling that many riders describe as a "swing". Maybe your horse arches his neck a bit, lifting the base of his neck and stretching over the top.

You know you're getting it when he gives you a snort, and his expression softens or his ears point softly forward.

And you're definitely there if you find your reins just got longer miraculously on their own, because the horse just rounded and let his energy travel over his topline. (In this case, gently take up the loose rein because you don't want the bit to suddenly move in the horse's mouth.)

How do you slow our horse's legs down? Let us know in the comments below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the first Book:

Riding gives us the place to just be.

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Top 10 Ways to Be A Star (Horse Riding) Student

walking beside — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

You've booked your lesson.

You've paid your money (or will right after the lesson).

You're taking the time and you've spent effort getting your horse ready.

So now you THINK you're ready for the lesson. But think again.

Being a star student in horseback riding is an art in itself. Aside from the many variables (like the weather, distractions, mood of your horse) that might play into your lesson, there are many other factors that are critical to making the ride enjoyable and useful for you, your horse, and yes, even your instructor!

There is no greater pleasure than the one AFTER your lesson, when you can bask in the glow of hard-earned sweat, and reflect longingly on all the feels, aids and balances that you will try to emulate without your instructor's presence over the next week.

In the meantime, take a look-see through this Top-10 list to see how you rate in your Star search!

*P.S. The items on this list assume that you have your own horse and are riding independently, although many could also apply to a riding school situation.*

10. Do Your Homework.

In other words, don't wait until the lesson to finally pull your horse out of the back field. If you know your horse always goes better the day after you ride, ride him the day before your lesson, so he is at his best when your instructor arrives. If you need to give your horse a day off, then ride two days before and let him rest in between. If you haven't worked in a ring for the past month, book your lesson for a day three weeks down the line, after you've had many rides on your own to get him even slightly "legged up."

9. Be On Time.

If you set the lesson for 10am, be groomed, tacked, bridled, helmet on and maybe even in the ring (depending on your instructor's preference) by 10. Don't make her stand around to watch you groom, unless that is part of the lesson. Try to max out your time with her, in the ring!

8. Be Warmed Up.

Some instructors like to teach through the warm-up. But at some point, you will likely have developed a solid enough routine that you can go ahead and warm up before your instructor arrives. You don't have to run your horse off his feet, but if you know your horse takes 20 minutes to just begin to loosen up, do that before your lesson. Even if your lesson ends up going a bit shorter, the warmed-up horse will be ready to go (as will you) and again, you can get the most value for your time.

7. Park Your Ego at the Gate.

This one can be tough. We all have insecurities and fear factors that are difficult to let go of in the face of even constructive criticism. Letting go of your ego must be learned just as any riding skill you attempt. Try, try again, and do your best to not let your feelings interfere with your ride. Let your instructor do and say what she thinks will benefit you the most. Otherwise, you'll get lots of sugar coating and no results.

6. Think Later.

I guarantee that most of us think too much while we are riding. Although thinking seems to be necessary when you are reprogramming your body to do new things, it is a hindrance when we are trying to move in tandem with a horse. Things happen too quickly for you to have the time to think, send messages back and forth through your body, and then hope for a good result. So think as little as possible and do as much as possible. Save your thinking and questions for when you are on the ground, before or after the lesson. In the meantime, put every ounce of your energy into focusing on your aids and your horse.

5. Don't Stop Riding.

This happens all the time and seems counter-intuitive to learning. As soon as we are challenged with a new concept, we stop the horse, drop the reins, sit flat and begin to consider. Which is exactly what the horse doesn't need. Imagine that your instructor is telling you something that is relevant for that second. And if you don't ride it out, you miss the opportunity to learn. Not only that, once you stop, your horse thinks he's gone on vacation (and so does your body) and you lose all the tone and balance you worked so hard to achieve.

So - keep riding, even if you are grappling with a thought (see #6) and don't really know what to do.

4. Respond Quickly.

Many riders go round and round and round, seemingly oblivious to their instructor's suggestions. So, for example, your instructor sees a good opportunity for you to get your horse into a balanced canter, out of the trot, in just that particular corner, in that particular time frame (which is usually only seconds). She tells you to canter. And you don't. But you trot on, past the corner, past the next corner, and then, finally, step into your first canter stride on the straight line.

Although you did get the canter, your horse is now on his forehand, strung out and struggling to take that first stride from the hind end. The straight line was not a help to your horse, which was exactly why your instructor asked for it in the corner! 😉

Let's say your instructor didn't give you enough time to prepare for the corner. Maybe her instructions were a little later than you needed them to be. What then?

Canter as soon as possible after the moment. Or, make a sharp turn, head right back to the set-up area, and attempt the corner again. No need to worry, just do it.

3. Listen, Try and Trust.

These three qualities may take a long time to develop if you don't do them intuitively on your own. But let's face it - you are asking someone to teach you what they know. So of course, it's important to listen to what they say, even if you don't agree at the moment. Then, give it a try. Trust that they are here to get the best out of you, and have your best interests in mind. If you get to a point that you cannot do these three things, maybe it's time to find another instructor.

2. Make A Change.

The best students have enough skill and gumption (is that a word?) to make a difference in their horse, based on what their instructor is saying. So if she wants you to get your horse to use his hind end, then do it. If you think you already did it, but your horse doesn't respond, do it again! Or do something else. Or pop in a half-halt and then use your seat and leg again. In any case, make something happen. It might not be the right change, but do something. Then you can fine-tune the horse's response.

1. Stop Talking and RIDE!

Hands up if you are one of those riders that talks while they ride (my hand is up)! When your instructor is in the ring, don't! Instead, listen, try, do, do again, change something... focus all your energy on your own body and the horse. Then talk about it after the ride or through the walk breaks.

Trust me, this list is based on personal experience! Although I've taken lessons for more years than I can count, I have to admit that each of these points take time to actually learn to do well. But every one of them is worth the effort, and makes your lesson experience more positive, more educational, and most importantly, more beneficial for your horse.

Because he is the one that matters most!

Do you have something to add to this list? Post in the comments below!

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

From Horse Listening Book 2: Forward And Round To Training Success

"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?

We all want our horses to improve in their athletic

development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....

But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going. Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.

Or not."

Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.

The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:

happier in his body

happier in his "work"

better balanced all-around

Click here for more information:

Available as an eBook or paperback.

How to Loosen Your Way to A More Effective Riding Seat

seat learned — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Many of us have less than adequate movement through our hips and lower backs to start with. Whether our joints, ligaments and tendons are shortened (tightened) through age, or through tension, or (over)use - or for whatever other reason - I think that more of us have tight lower backs than not. Many of us have to work hard to "loosen" through the lower back - which then translates to a more active and released core, hips, legs and even upper body.

There are some people who have wonderfully flowing backs and soft but toned abs, cores, and upper backs. So if you are one of those people who have little to no issues with following the horse's movement, please disregard the rest of this article!

On the other hand, if you bounce in the saddle, fall out of sync with your horse's movement, or otherwise feel less than balanced and effective, maybe some of the following ideas might help.

Bring Attention to the Lower Back

One of the easiest ways to isolate the lower back area is to touch it while you are riding. So, put both reins in one hand and place the back of your other hand in the small of your back. Feel the amount of movement that goes on there. Is it flowing easily with the horse's movement? Is it too tight? Could there be more movement and release?

Try this at the walk, trot and canter as it will be different at each gait. Don't be surprised if you find tension even at the walk. We often carry more tightness than we think we do.

Keep your hand over the lower back area and start playing with movement at each gait. Try some transitions and see how the energy flows (or doesn't) through your lower back in the transitions. When do you brace? Where do you flop?

Once you have a good feeling of what is actually going on, work toward moving that area more with the horse. Look for better flow, better rhythm through your own back and less bounce in the saddle (especially in the canter).

The Secrets to the Looseness

We're taught very early in our riding careers to not "arch" the lower back. There are many good reasons for this, with the most important being that your seat will not make correct contact with the saddle and the pelvis will tilt incorrectly. The other one, of course, is that we don't want to cause injury to the lower back in the first place. But there is one thing that most people don't mention about the "arch."

Many of us (*again, please disregard if this isn't you!) are so tight in our lower backs that we have lost the natural arch that should be there. So while riding, even if you feel like you are arching your back, you likely won't be arching in the way that causes a negative effect to you and/or your horse. Precisely because of your stiffness or tightness, what feels like an arch is likely more of a straightening of your lower back. So while you feel like you are in the arch moment, you are in fact only allowing your pelvis to tilt enough to actually keep position while the horse moves.

The other secret is that you must "loosen" in movement. Your supple back will allow the horse's supple back. You will be moving into and out of the arch in rhythm with the horse's movement - thereby not really holding an arch at all.

Once you have the feeling with your hand in your lower back, remove your hand and take up the other rein again. Think/feel to the lower back and keep it moving as if your hand is still there. Any time you feel the stiffness coming on, take your hand back there again and find the looseness.

What Not To Do

Finally, beware the "flop." The opposite extreme of the tight back is the jello back. If you find that you let your lower back go too much, thereby really arching too deeply, you have to hold more tension at the end of each stride so that you don't just flop into the saddle.

There is such thing as too much of a good thing!

There are many more details to developing an effective riding seat, but finding that flowing lower back is the first step.

All you really need to do is become more aware of the movement through your lower back, to know what it feels like to really allow the back to move in tandem with the horse's back, and to release enough to be able to maintain an honest three-point position in the saddle.

How do you ensure that you have a "loose" lower back when you ride your horse? Let us know in the comments below!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the book:

Riding gives us the place to just be.

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Two Secrets to Easing Your Horse Into Suppleness

All riding disciplines value a horse that demonstrates suppleness while elegantly transitioning through his paces, floating weightlessly with pleasant engagement and enthusiasm. But many of us find that our horses feel more like rigid cardboard. Instead of bending seamlessly left then right, we find ourselves in a never ending tug-of-war against a braced jaw, poll, neck, back and hind end.

So precisely because we do not want to hurt the horse, we do nothing.

Working on bending into the corner — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Instead, we become passive riders, not interfering with the horse but also not helping him achieve a healthier weight carriage. He travels with a stiff gait, crooked and hollow and eventually works his way into lameness - not because of what we did, but because of what we did not do.

We eventually learn that just hanging on and letting the horse travel incorrectly is not the solution.

On the other hand, we don't want to push, pull and pretzel the horse into a fake shape that falls apart at a moment's notice anyway.

How can we find the happy medium?

Recently, I learned all over again about suppleness not through riding but through yoga and "listening" to the responses of my own body. Sometimes, there is no bigger lesson learned than through a personal first-hand experience.

To find suppleness in your own body, try practicing yoga. Or any martial arts, or dance or gymnastics.

Or choose another physical activity that you enjoy.

Then take notes.

Learn about how you can become more supple in your body.

As you move through the stretching and bending routines, you will soon realize that you won't be able to force your body into looseness! In fact, the harder you try, the more tense your body will become. Instead, you will have to just go through the movements until your body can release through the muscles, tendons and ligaments. But this will take time.

The next time you go to yoga (or your activity of choice), your body will be more supple just on its own. You won't have to force or crunch - the muscles, tendons and ligaments will simply be more giving and "loose."

The same can be said for the horse.

The quickest way to suppleness in the horse is through regular practice and steadfast patience.

First: Practice

Practice is the first step toward suppleness. In riding, this translates to working on specific exercises that encourage the horse to move with more fluidity and grace. This means that rather than doing nothing, or just hanging on during the ride, we need to set up situations that promote release of the muscles.

Even if your horse feels like he simply can't soften or supple, work on getting him to release his topline. Ask for more impulsion. Try some stretches, work on bends. See if you can "accordion" the horse a few times, at the walk, trot and maybe even at the canter.

If your horse feels too tight to really respond, ease up on your aids a bit. But still ask and continue setting up the situations. Bend left, turn left. Bend right, turn right. Keep the turns soft and large but still try to get a mild bend from the horse.

Remember that the idea isn't to crank him into position. Rather, you want to invite him into softness through the body. This is something that cannot be forced.

Second: Patience

If you don't see instant results, don't get too disappointed. Understand that the stiffness you feel is deep within the horse's body and it might take several rides before he can loosen enough to respond to your expectations.

Patiently use your aids but don't rush him. Wait for him especially if you notice increased tension in response to your aids. Don't get stronger. Don't become frantic. Just ask and wait.

If the tension persists, finish the ride on a calm note and call it a day.

Try again the next ride. Work toward small improvements each day. You might be surprised to feel a more supple horse just like that!

How do you work on suppleness? Let us know in the comments below.

Now is the time to re-evaluate your goals and path to riding success!

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look our Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

design your overarching goals

long- and short-term planning,

debrief your special events such as clinics or shows

reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals

sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Done With Going Round and Round on the Rail? Try the “10/5 Challenge”!

go and no — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Do you ever get stuck in the same rut ride after ride? It is true that finding a routine is a good idea because it gives you and your horse a sense of structure that you can build upon over time.

But there are times when you want to spice things up before you pack it up!

Use the 10/5 Challenge when:

- you're both done with that 50th loop around the rail and want to do something completely "off the wall" (pun intended!)

- you feel that everything went right in the ride and there's still more left in you and your horse for a bang-up last effort

- you want to get the kinks out and release tension in you and your horse

- you want to develop hind end engagement and larger hind end strides

- your horse is feeling a little lethargic and "uninspired"

- your horse is too pumped up and needs to put his energy somewhere

- you want to fine-tune your aids and transitions

- you want to play a little with a "last dance" before you're done for the day

In any case, this exercise will help both you and your horse work out of your tightness. It encourages your horse to loosen over the top line, work out his balance and engagement, and in general, become better able to work through any transition.

The 10/5 Challenge

The idea is pretty simple. You want to do 10 strides of one thing and then 5 strides of something else.

For example:

- 10 strides canter/5 strides trot

- 10 strides left and 5 strides right

- 10 strides canter/5 strides walk

- 10 strides leg yield/5 strides shoulder-in

There really are an infinite of variations you can use.

But I love the first one the most, especially for beginner to intermediate horse and riders, so let's break that one down more for an example.

The 10 Strides Canter/5 Strides Trot Challenge

1. Canter

Go into a canter. Make sure you have a "decent" canter to start - encourage your horse onward if at all possible.

2. Count strides.

The idea is to hit the transition on that 10 mark, and be absolutely picky about changing gaits in the 10th stride.

3. Transition to trot.

You might have to really prepare for this transition at first. Chances are, your horse will not be expecting such a downward transition so soon, so be ready to reinforce your asking aids as soon as you can. The idea is to stay in that 10 stride number. So be picky.

4. Transition to canter.

But watch out! Don't "sit" on your laurels! Those 5 strides are over before you know it, and you have got to get back into the canter on the fifth trot stride!

And there is the real challenge. This exercise requires you to be sharp, accurate and physically in sync with your horse. The quickness of the transitions will jolt you into a higher level of accuracy and timing. The physicality of the transitions will have you both huffing and puffing in no time. Just remember to keep breathing! You might solicit a nice body-shaking snort from your horse in the process. That is a good sign.

5. Do it again!

The first time is probably going to be the easiest for a while. The next bunch of tries will really highlight the areas that need to come together for a better transition. As your horse starts to realize that there will be more and more transitions, he may go through some tension and resistance before he can gather up his strength and balance to be able to smoothly make so many transitions.

You might discover a few issues as well! Initially, the transitions come up very quickly. You might feel overwhelmed and thrown off balance a bit. Keep at it. If you find yourself not making the 10 strides, do 12. But aim for 10. Figure out how to adjust your timing for the transitions. You might have to do the "ask" for both the upward and downward several strides before.

Practice. Stick with the program 10, 20 times even if things don't go well. You will get better at it and your horse will become more balanced. Things will start falling together. The next time you try this, you might discover that the horse has an easier time with the transitions and responds more smoothly and efficiently to the aids.

Of all the exercises I've used, (click here if you'd like to see more of these sort of ideas in my first book) I'd recommend this one the most for anyone to try at any level. It works well with an advanced horse/rider combination as well as for the beginner rider or horse. You can make it a very basic exercise of one simple transition or complicate it as much as you would like. If the canter/trot is too simple, move onto something that challenges both you and your horse. Do the transitions while you change directions. Change leads and then break to the trot. The variations are limitless!

If you have tried the 10/5 Challenge, let us know in the comments how it worked for you. What went well? What problems did you run into?

If you like this sort of pattern work, join my Practice Sessions Premium Membership. The Practice Sessions are a complete program beginning with exercises like the one above, designed to improve specific aspects of the horse and rider. All set up and ready to go, all you have to do is watch the video, print off the pattern PDF and head to the barn!

But there's so much more! There's quality of movement exercises, theory "Mini-Classes" on specific aids and figures, a fantastic group of riders who motivate and encourage each other, and so much more! Click here to learn more.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the first book in the Horse Listening Collection: Horse Listening, The Book

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Two Steps to Facing Fear While Riding Horses

*Note: Safety first! Always use any of these suggestions at your discretion. Always check to see if your horse is reacting to some discomfort or misunderstanding, especially if the behavior is unusual. There is no one-way-cures-all method to riding. Feel free to change anything to meet the needs of you and your horse.

buck — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

When you start to ride horses, there comes a time when you must face your own mortality.

Because riding horses isn't just about feel-goods and swoon-moments and lovey-dovey pet him behind the ears satisfactions (although those surely are wonderful occasions).

Invariably, one day, your horse looks you in the eye (or not) and says, "No!"

Or maybe it's more like he sees/hears/feels some great horse-eating monster-thing and suddenly, his flight or fight response kicks in and sure enough, he FLIES! Good luck to you, wingless human, who wishes to share in his space and time continuum! 🙂

After one or two (or more) parting of ways, you will surely begin to dread, or at the very least, physically tense, in anticipation of the next event. You might find yourself nervously looking around for the next monster. Occasionally, you might become reactive or even apprehensive and then you become part of the problem.

However, in possibly all horse disciplines, you are taught to never show your fear to the horse. If you do, the horse will pick up on your emotions and respond in kind. There is some truth to that. Horses are mirrors of us and often read our body language much earlier than we intend. So your tension can breed his tension and then you both end up spiraling into something that becomes much worse than it could have been.

Why Fear is Good

Never apologize for your fear. In horseback riding, think of fear as a good thing. It is what protects both you and your horse from danger and keeps you safe.

Fear can help you draw the line that guides you into making life-saving decisions. Instead of fighting it out with a 1000-pound animal, maybe it's ok for you to get off his back and call it a day.

Instead of pushing the situation to a level that makes you deal with something you cannot or should not or do not want to have to go through, you can tone down the exercise, going back to an emotional level that your horse can tolerate or that you can comfortably ride.

But sometimes, you don't get a choice in the matter. What to do then?

How to Ride Through It

1. Focus on Your Seat

Easier said than done, right?

There is one key method to staying on when the horse throws you a spin, buck or lurch.

Loosen through your seat.

Take every bit of energy and strength you have, and through the up/down/sideways/lurch moment, let loose. Rather than tightening your lower back, make it move with the horse. Find that saddle and let your seat glue in and go in whichever way it has to. The rest of your body will follow (trust me on that!).

Put all your attention into (not tensing but) releasing.

Stay open in your body. Avoid hunching over into a "fetal position."

Think, "Velcro seat!!"

Ride through it.

Keep your cool.

Stay consistent.

Don't get mad/even/offended or feel resentment.

Then, as soon as you have a semblance of balance and you feel confident enough to start talking (physically) with your horse again, go right back to what you were doing before the excitement began. Do Step #2.

2. Stay on topic

Your job, other than not falling off, is to be an active rider by continuing to give The. Same. Message.

Just like that. Calm, cool, and thinking... "We were having a nice conversation before you interrupted!"

Go right back to getting that inside bend. Restore your balance by reestablishing the horse's balance, rhythm, straightness, stride length - anything and everything that will help him go back to his calm outline and way of going.

Then be ready for the next time.

Of course you're going to look for the next spooky corner. Or listen for the next sound.

It's perfectly fine and even useful for you to be aware of your surroundings. You SHOULD know what causes your horse's behavior and be able to predict what's coming next. Just don't let your horse do the looking.

Make sure that your body "stays on topic." You might not be able to stop the next spook from coming, but if you were planning on going with a nice bend through that corner, you aids should clearly keep telling the horse to bend. Sticking to the program helps the horse know that you are predictable and consistent.

Prove Your Leadership

The horse is almost always relieved to find that you are willing to be the leader in your horse/human herd. He will often relax and become more confident when he knows that despite the monsters that are lurking in every corner, he can boldly go forward and strong because you will guide his way. You will tell him what to do. You will keep him safe, not (only) because you love him and have the best at heart for him.

But because you can physically stay with him, and then correct or help him in his time of need.

Over time, you will realize that your actions will help your horse in his reactions. Your emotions will be more easily controlled and your confidence will allow you to stay purposeful, rational and active during the unplanned moments of your ride. Although there is always the potential for the unexpected, you can take steps to minimize the risks.

Buy the book for many more riding tips!

Personally signed books available! Give the best gift for the horse lover in your life (or for yourself!

). Send me a message for more information.

From the first book in the Horse Listening Collection: Horse Listening, The Book

Riding gives us the place to just be.

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horses. Riding. Life.

Category: lessons/training

7 Essential Aids For An Epic Canter Transition

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Where Does Your Half-Halt Start? Here Are Four Suggestions

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

The Art of Slowing Your Horse’s Leg Speed Down Without Losing Energy

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Top 10 Ways to Be A Star (Horse Riding) Student

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

How to Loosen Your Way to A More Effective Riding Seat

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Two Secrets to Easing Your Horse Into Suppleness

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Now is the time to re-evaluate your goals and path to riding success!

Done With Going Round and Round on the Rail? Try the “10/5 Challenge”!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Two Steps to Facing Fear While Riding Horses

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips!