horse training – Page 2 – Horse Listening

First, Plan Your Ride. Then, Be Ready To Scrap It.

Has this ever happened to you?

You know exactly what you want to do during your ride. Your horse is prepped, you have all the gear you need, and you head to the riding ring with high hopes and a set plan.

You get on, get going, and then discover that your horse has something entirely different in mind!

At this point, you have two choices: keep going with what you were planning to do, or scrap it and work on what your horse needs to work on.

Goal Setting: Step-by-Step Development

There is no replacement for goal setting in the quest for improvement in riding. When you have an idea of the path you want to take, and the skills you want to develop, it is always good to plan out what you want to do before you get on the horse's back. Each ride should be a development from the last, setting up a series of successes for (yourself and) your horse as he progresses in his training and education.

What are you going to work on today? What went well last ride, what would you like to develop, and what movements will your horse enjoy? How will you warm up? What is the "lesson" for today? How will you cool down? Make your time count, make it a quality ride and then get off.

You need to know what you want to do during a ride. There is nothing worse than wandering around and around in circles, aimlessly pounding legs into sand for little purpose other than perhaps a little conditioning for the horse.

Be clear on the basic skills your horse needs, develop them into the intermediate levels and then finally (over the course of a number of years), move up to the highest levels of training in your discipline.

When to Scrap the Plan

However, goal setting can only take you so far. Even though you are inspired to get that horse to do the next cool thing, your horse might simply not be ready.

Alternately, he might be able to do some parts of the new movement, but loses the basic, most fundamental aspects to riding - enough that the movement becomes labored, difficult and unappealing. Maybe the horse puts up a fuss and even quits.

This is when you should scrap your grand ideas, and get back down to the business of the basics.

Many of the basic movements, like maintaining rhythm, looseness, or the simple act of moving forward, are integral to all levels of riding and therefore should be worked on regularly even if you are also working on something else at the same time.

It is much more important to develop solid basics - and only after your horse is fluidly performing those, move on to more difficult exercises. Have the patience and awareness to reestablish the important aspects of movement.

Because the basics are where it's at. Without the fundamental skill set, there will never be soft, fluid, responsive, enthusiastic work from your horse.

Have you ever scrapped your plan and listened to your horse? Tell us about your ride in the comments below.

“Go and No”: The Connection Between Forward and Half-Halt in Horse Riding

Without forward, there is no half-halt but without half-halt, there is no forward. (Click to tweet this if you agree.)

Let me explain.

Has it ever happened to you that after you kicked (or preferably, didn't kick but used more seat/leg for energy), the horse flew out from under you, running faster and faster until he fell to the forehand and perhaps had to scramble his way back to balance?

Or conversely...

Has it ever happened that you went to half-halt (or check) and the horse braced his neck against your pressure, slowed the rhythm and reduced energy until you thought you were stuck in quicksand?

In both cases, there is one aid given to the horse but the other is missing. And there seems to be no other way: if you want to control energy, you have to have energy in the first place. If there is no energy, there is no controlling.

What to do?

We have to learn the coordination between "go and no" - all the while, keeping our balance to give the appropriate aids while not pulling on the reins.

Try this:

Teach your horse to kick (not literally!) into gear when you use a light leg and encouraging seat (that floats right into the movement that your horse offers). Then, before it's too late and he loses balance completely, use a restricting seat, contact with your (probably outside) rein, and a little leg to help the horse's hind end to come underneath his body.

See if he steps deeper underneath his body, rounds more, becomes bouncier, and breathes deeper (or gives you a well-earned snort). Look for more swing in his stride, more reach through his shoulders, and a lighter contact pressure on the reins.

The rhythm should be unaffected. A half-halt is a re-balance; it isn't a "putter down into the slower gait little by little and let the energy peter out." Therefore, the idea isn't to interfere with the horse's gait and tempo. Instead, your aim is to celebrate the energy your horse gives you and redirect it not only straight forward, but also a little upward, so the overall balance tilts a little to the hind end.

Keep your balance.

Encourage more energy.

Keep the tempo the same (not faster or slower).

Get the "go", then get the "no".

And let us know how it works out in the comment section below.

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Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

More articles you might enjoy:

Stepping “Forward” in Horse Riding: The term ‘forward’ is used liberally in horse riding but is often misunderstood.

The #1 Problem of the Year: The Outside Rein! The outside rein is the most underused and poorly understood of all the aids, and here’s why.

6 Ways to Unleash the Power of Your Riding Seat: As you become more subtle in the aiding process, you will begin to discover just how powerful the seat can be in guiding the horse without disturbing and interfering in his movement.

Top 10 Ways to Reward Your Horse: A happy horse is a willing partner, and many horses will give everything they have if they feel your acknowledgement and generosity of spirit.

Demystifying “Contact” in Horseback Riding: Does “contact” have other-wordly connotations? Here is why effective contact is within reach of the average rider.

3 Questions to Consider Before Riding Bareback and Bridleless

Last weekend, I had the distinct pleasure of watching Stacy Westfall work her horses and riders in some demo rides during Ontario's "Can-Am" weekend event. It was fabulous to watch her and listen to her words of wisdom. My take-home from her sessions: safety around horses is essential at all times.

You've probably already seen her 2006 video. You know, the one with her amazing horse Roxy going bareback and bridleless during an unforgettable ride that she dedicated to her then recently passed father. I'd be willing to bet that most of us didn't have a dry eye once it was over. The ride was emotional, sensational and technically correct enough to win them the championship at that show. If you haven't already seen it, here is the ride:

Shortly after the video became a YouTube sensation, many people thought it was a good idea to try and do this with their own horse.

Can you predict what happened after that?

Well, people got hurt.

The reason? Not all horses we ride are trained as impeccably as Roxy was, nor are we all Stacey Westfalls (although maybe we are in our wildest dreams).

I'm not saying that you should never try riding without a bridle. And riding bareback is surely on the bucket list for most riders as they grow and develop their skills. There is simply no feeling like sitting directly on the horse's back while he goes through his paces (assuming the horse has kind and accommodating withers).

Coming out of the sessions, I was reminded yet again about the themes that become evident to me every time I consider safety around horses, regardless of riding discipline.

Before you jump on the "no tack" bandwagon, please consider the following three questions so you can be very, very careful. You might decide that riding without tack might simply be a long-term goal to be risked only after you have considered the following stipulations:

1. Are you going to be safe?

This one is a no-brainer! Chances are, if you sit on someone else's four legs - without tack for balance and communication - you might part ways! Before you throw away your saddle and bridle, please consider: can you get your horse to do everything you need without the use of a bridle?

Would your horse respond to you during unpredictable situations 100% of the time? Can you stop him before he spooks/rears/bucks/spins? Until you can, play it on the safe side. Wear the saddle so you can balance better. Keep the bridle on so you can use it if necessary. And wait until your horse is ready.

2. How will the horse's quality of movement be affected?

We might not want to hear this, but that doesn't make it less true: not all horses are built well enough to carry the weight of a rider. This means that if we throw away the bridle and saddle, we are pretty much guaranteed that these horses will have more trouble moving correctly under our weight.

We use tack to direct the horse's movement, whether to flow energy forward or to contain movement. We can reduce tension, stiffness and imbalance through correct riding, which is usually easier to do with the help of our equipment.

Consider what less-than-perfect conformation will do to the joints, muscles and skeletal body if ridden poorly over long term. Then, you might opt for the tack before you get on.

3. Will your own riding position be compromised?

There is a purpose to stirrups, saddle seat design and saddles sized to your derrière: balance. The stirrups are not just to keep you from falling off; once you have achieved basic torso control, stirrups help you maintain optimal balance while your horse moves underneath you. Let's face it: without a saddle, you rock 'n roll on your horse's back more than it appears to the observer.

Of course, with a little practice, you could probably stay on the horse (most of the time) when riding bareback. But as your balance shifts in the movement, the horse's balance also changes. You might get thrown forward/backward, your knees might rise or you might lean to one side to counteract the effects of gravity.

The horse might fall to the forehand or tighten his back in response. His footfalls may become heavier or more labored, and he might need to drop the base of his neck (and lift his head and neck) to keep you both from really losing balance.

Well, you get the idea. The point here is to consider all the consequences of bareback and bridleless riding. If you want to be the next Stacy Westfall of your riding discipline, go through a step-by-step process that can keep you safe and your horse healthy.

Keep in mind what it will do not only to you, but (almost) more importantly, to your horse.

Because although you have a choice in the matter, your horse does not.

Have you ever seen Stacy Westfall and what was your take-away?

*Please note: The opinions in this article are solely the author's and do not represent any promotion or endorsement for either Stacy Westfall or the Can Am event.

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Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

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Horse Listening

Read more here:

What Responsible Horse Ownership Really Means: We need to keep in mind that horses are prey animals and long-time domesticated livestock. If we listen well enough, we discover that what we think of as giving might not be what the horses truly need.

10 Tips for the Average Rider: Are you an average rider? Then join the club!

Do You Want to Own A Horse? Answer ‘yes’ to these questions and you are on your way!

5 Life Lessons From Horses: If we can learn anything from horses, it is that many concepts hold true as clearly in life as they do in the world of horses.

Ride Backwards, But Ride Effectively! Although the rider had developed the correct “look”, the horse was telling a different story.

What To Do When Your Horse Isn’t Being Cute

As we identified in the last post, some horse behaviors that we might think of as being cute might carry different connotations when deciphered from a herd animal's perspective. This time, we will analyze examples of specific behaviors and what you might be able to do about them.

What NOT to do:

Don't get mad.

Don't get even.

Don't lose your cool.

Although these are just suggestions, remember that there is rarely a need to get mad and become physically aggressive to get a result. Stay calm, be purposeful and most especially, be consistent.

****Please always remember: when working with, on or around horses, always make decisions that ensure your safety as well as the horse's safety. If in doubt, back off and reevaluate before things escalate.****

Pawing

Horse Speak Definition: In general, pawing is a sign of impatience or anxiety. The horse wants to move.

What To Do: If the horse is being held by a handler (for example, in a show environment), then by all means, allow the horse to go for a walk. Better yet, use the energy to teach or perfect something while the horse is walking. Try getting the horse to step away from you as he is walking. Can he cross his legs (front only, back only, both front and back) while he is walking?

Walking off might not be suitable in all situations. If the horse is in cross-ties in the barn, you can still easily stop the pawing by picking one foot and asking it to step forward/back/ forward/back until the horse is ready to stop moving. Then give the horse the opportunity to stop. If he isn't ready to stop, go to it again!

Head Nodding

Horse Speak Definition: Head nodding is also another sign of excess energy or tension.

What To Do: Change the topic and do some of the same things suggested for pawing. Always aim to get the horse to step away from you rather than step into you so that you demonstrate your leadership to him.

Pushing you out of the way

Horse Speak Definition: This one can become very dangerous since every time the horse gets you to move away from him, he will become more and more convinced of his leadership over you. As you may notice in any turn-out field, the dominant horse usually gets his way and tells all the other horses what to do and where to go. Becoming the secondary citizen in your herd of two may not suit you well since you are also one-sixth the size of the horse and can be very easily hurt!

What To Do: Once again, be sure to assert your leadership. Decide on a personal space "bubble" around you that the horse should not enter. Then, before the horse steps into that space, push him out - first, with your body language (step into his space) and if he does not respond to that social cue, then follow through by pushing him away with the lead rope or bridle reins. He must never get closer to you, even while walking beside you, than what you've decided is a safe personal space around you.

Dragging you along on the lead

Horse Speak Definition: Something else (other than you) requires much more urgent attention of the horse. He is knowingly or unknowingly disregarding your communications and going where he needs to go.

What To Do: This behavior is the opposite of the one above. Should your horse drag you, do your best to stop and assume one position. Then swing his head around in a way that makes him turn to face you. Maybe you can back him up a few steps after he stops and looks at you. Maybe you ask him to step sideways away from you for a set number of footfalls.

Try walking ahead after you feel he is softly compliant. If he goes to drag you off again, go back to moving his feet where you want them to go. In all cases, do not allow him to continue taking you for a walk! Treat this behavior seriously as there is great danger of you getting hurt.

Nibbling on your hat or hair

Horse Speak Definition: Isn't it so cute when your horse reaches forward with a lovingly stretched out neck and gently nibbles on your hair or hat? NO!

Again, in the herd, the dominant horse is the one that does the nibbling. Please be assured that what you think of as being cute is a completely different message to the horse: that he is boss and you should do what he says.

What To Do: This one is easy to prevent - just don't tempt him with your hat, hair, or anything else for that matter! Stay out of his nibbling zone and consistently establish your personal space bubble.

Begging for treats

Horse Speak Definition: As humans, we get a pleasure rush when we do something nice for someone else. We especially enjoy sharing meals and treats together - sharing food is simply in our nature.

Unfortunately, herd dynamics don't follow human social norms. The only time one horse gives another horse food (or gets out of the way) is when the second horse is dominant over the first.

Every time you give a treat to your horse, you are communicating to him that he is the leader in your herd of two. This might not be a problem for some time, but should your normally gentle and sweet horse start becoming demanding and pushy, you can blame it on the repeated communication you've been giving him.

What To Do: One option is to refrain from ever giving your horse treats by hand. Some people always stick to this rule. If you must hand feed treats, be sure to avoid giving the treat at the first sign of aggressive behavior from your horse. Establish clear parameters and be consistent. If in doubt, go back to option 1!

Stomping feet or turning your way when you touch an area

Horse Speak Definition: The horse is uncomfortable for some reason and is making it clear that you should get out of his space.

What To Do: First, find out if there is truly a physical discomfort. Perhaps you will need a veterinarian to check the horse and see if there is a problem with that area.

If it is likely that the horse is being aggressive, then look to either change the behavior (redirect the energy and get the horse to move specific feet, as in pawing and head nodding above) or simply push the horse out of your personal space. Make it clear that you can move his feet and assume the leader position in the "herd" dynamic.

In all the above examples, the key thing to remember is that the horse is simply communicating to you in the way he knows how. It is your duty to understand "horse speak" and negotiate through all the herd dynamic social rules. The better you understand the "horse" definitions behind your actions, the quicker you will be in knowing how to prevent unwanted behavior, and knowing what to do about it.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

If you liked this article, you might also enjoy:

It’s All About Listening: Where it all began for this blog.

The 99% “Lucky Rule”: The 99% Lucky rule is very simple – when you’re around horses, and particularly in dangerous situations, you are lucky 99% of the time. That is a good rule – unless it happens to be the 1% of the time that you might be ‘un’-lucky! Then, it’s no fun at all.

Speaking “Horse” (a.k.a. “Pushing the Envelope”): Horses send messages out as much as humans do. Once you know how to listen to your horse, a whole world of communication can open up for you.

How To Be An Active Horseback Rider (a.k.a. Riding With Intention): What do you do when your ride isn’t going as planned? How do you respond when your horse scoots out from under you, spooks at the horse-killing object, or flat out ignores you?

Take the Credit, Bad AND Good: In our quest for balance (not just on the kind on the back of the horse), it is essential for us to look at our achievements from both angles.

What Responsible Horse Ownership Really Means

Horses have given us so much since their domestication approximately six thousand years ago.

They gave us power and advantage as cavalry mounts. They carried our wares as pack animals. They pulled our wagons and helped us create new civilizations all over the world. Once we settled, they plowed our fields and provided us with means to grow food.

Nowadays, horses have taken a back seat to mechanized equipment. They are owned mainly for sport or pleasure, sometimes taking on the role of a pet.

Yet they continue to give.

They give by becoming our companions, our teammates, our recreational pursuits; they help us grow, learn and play.

At this point, it's our turn to give back. However, we need to keep in mind that horses are prey animals and long-time domesticated livestock. If we listen well enough, we discover that what we think of as giving might not be what the horses truly need.

As owners of these magnificent animals, it is our responsibility to prepare them for a life within the environment and structure in which we live. By taking on horse ownership, we are taking on the duty of caring for and training our horses in such a way that enables them to survive well in our social structures.

In other words, our horses should be trained sufficiently to be suitably socialized to do well in a human-ized environment. Unless we can buy 20,000 acres (or more) of pasture land with plenty of natural resources to support a herd of untouched (wild) horses, it becomes our duty to help our horses know how to get by in this world of the human.

Some examples

Our horses should not bite. They should not kick people. They should allow people to handle them in a way that keeps people safe from harm.

And it falls to us to teach them socially appropriate behavior - because the bottom line is that if the horse does not respond appropriately in regards to humans, it will be the horse that suffers in the long run - and potentially be put down for his dangerous or unacceptable behavior.

How to Be A Responsible Horse Owner

There are so many aspects of responsible horse ownership:

- simple horse training of day-to-day tasks

- bring a horse along carefully and compassionately as a young horse

- have an intrinsic lifelong passion for learning all things "horse" (the desire for self-improvement)

- represent a horse honestly and ethically when presenting him for sale

- teach people who are new to horses in a similarly responsible manner, even if they have (possibly misguided) ideas of their own

Whether you own a foal, a young horse, or an old-timer, always be aware of your responsibility to your horse. Being a good horse listener and responsible owner means that you get to "give back" in a way that ensures a long and comfortable life for your horse - even in a humanized environment!

Use the “Canter-Trot” to Truly Engage the Hind End

The word "engagement" is second to none when it comes to horseback riding. All the disciplines ask for hind end engagement, from western performance to dressage to jumping to endurance riding - there is no other way to move than from the hind end!

We know why we want engagement: if we can get the horse moving "from the hind end", the horse can stay sound even while ridden into old age. With more weight shifted to the hind end, there is less dragging on the forehand. There is better weight bearing over the back, and the lighter footfalls save the joints and tendons. Energy from the hind end is the prerequisite for horse riding heaven and we all know that! 🙂

However, we might not be quite as accomplished when it really comes down to figuring out how we can develop hind end engagement. Many riders think that kicking the horse along and making the legs move faster is the ticket to engagement - but that is nothing further than the truth!

The key to engagement is to initiate the movement from the horse's hind end, not the front end or shoulders.

So if faster isn't the answer, then what is?

We need to find out how to ask the horse to reach deeper underneath the body without throwing their weight to the forehand, and without speeding up the leg tempo.

There are many methods to teach engagement but the "canter-trot" is relatively easy for both the horse and rider. It also accomplishes the main purpose of shifting the weight to the hind end and waking up the horse's rear engine muscles.

How to "Canter-Trot"

Start from any gait (even a reverse)

Canter (no more than three strides)

Then Trot

Before you get insulted by the seemingly simple instructions above, please take note: it's not as easy as it sounds!

Possible Errors

There might be several unwanted responses you will have to redirect before you get the desired result.

1. The horse wants to canter off into the sunset.

Many horses transition into the canter but then resist breaking back into the trot. There may be many reasons why but invariably, horses have an easier time staying in the canter (and eventually getting heavier and heavier to the forehand). This is because it takes a lot of hind end work to break the momentum of the canter!

Remember that this exercise is not intended to be a canter exercise. It is a canter-TROT exercise, so the horse has to break back into the trot within one, two or three canter strides.

2. The horse trots faster.

To engage the hind end, the horse must take a few canter strides. Just moving the legs faster into the trot is completely counterproductive to establishing hind end engagement.

If the horse just trots along faster, half-halt into a slower trot rhythm, and ask for the canter again.

Then trot.

3. The horse shows discomfort.

There might be ear pinning, tail swishing, teeth grinding, hopping... you name it. Basically, the horse is indicating either physical discomfort or mental stress.

First, ensure that there is nothing wrong with the tack, and there is nothing otherwise physically bothering the horse. If the horse is demonstrating confusion or frustration, you are likely taking him out of his comfort zone (comfortable = riding on the forehand?) and asking him to do something that he honestly finds difficult.

In this case, be gentle, calm and patient but be firm! Many horses get used to working on a heavy forehand and initially resist bearing weight on the hind legs. If this happens to be the case, then teaching the horse hind end engagement is even more essential than you think!

Keep trying for the canter and when you get it, trot.

What happens after the canter?

After the few canter strides, break back into the trot. This trot should be very different from the trots before the canter. It should feel more active, bouncier and even slower. If the hind legs are truly reaching farther underneath the body, the stride might become longer and more ground-covering.

At this point, you might want to enjoy the trot you have and move into further trot work from here. You might want to develop even more engagement and do a few more canter-trots in a row.

Alternately, you might want to move into a completely new movement that benefits from the deeper engagement you just achieved.

Play with this a few times, and then let us know how it works for you in the comments below!

Horse Listening Book Collection - beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands!

From the first book in the Horse Listening Collection: Horse Listening, The Book

"There are many reasons why we enjoy riding horses. Maybe one of the most appealing facets of riding is the sense of freedom: freedom from our own limitations, freedom from gravity, freedom to (literally) roam the Earth. Time stands still while we have the privilege of feeling movement from the back of our four-legged friend.
Riding gives us the place to just be.
Of course, there are other purposes too. Some of us revel in the challenge of learning the skills required to becoming a good team member of this unlikely duo. Riding is like no other sport or recreational pursuit simply because of the equine partner that must not only carry us, but also do so effortlessly and gracefully. As we develop our specific skill sets, we also grow as human beings in character, emotional maturity and mental acuity.
But there is one other motivation that drives some of us to persevere in the never-ending learning process that is horseback riding: improving the horse. As your own skills develop, you begin to realize that not only can you meet your own needs through riding, but also that you can even become an instrument of benefit for the horse."

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:
- the rider's motivations
- the essential skills for the rider
- some specific strategies
- solutions to common problems
- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience
Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!
Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Click here for more information.

What To Do When Your Horse Gets Excited

buck — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

As riders, we need to decipher between which response should be most beneficial in the various situations we find ourselves. Ideally, we would train both ourselves and our horses to create conditions where problems never happen in the first place.

However, we know that especially in horse riding, unforeseeable events occur. We need to be prepared with several different tools, so that we are prepared for most scenarios.

Please note: the assumption here is that there are no tack or otherwise physical or mental discomfort producing the unwanted behavior.

* Safety first! As per John Lyons, here are three rules to live by to keep you and your horse safe through any training session:

- You can't get hurt.

- Your horse can't get hurt.

- The horse is better at the end of the training session than at the beginning.

Assuming all those parameters are in place, here are some suggestions on how to train your horse through the rough times:

1. Stay On

It's often tempting to bail when your horse starts bouncing around and forgetting about your aids. Assuming you are safe enough, do your best to stick through it. Always err on the side of safety and do get off if you feel that you're safer on the ground - but then do some ground work that stays on the same topic as what you were doing under saddle.

Better yet, get someone to help you out, if possible. You could have a ground person walk near your horse to calm him down, or put you on a lunge line to help make better conditions for you to work through any problems. Getting off might reinforce your horse's behavior. Instead, ride through his exuberance to let him know that you are still there at the end of it. As soon as you have good enough balance, go right back to what you were doing, without any indication of emotional upheaval on your part.

2. Stay Cool

Nothing screams 'not leader' more than losing control of your emotions. Assuming that the horse is already in a mental conundrum, getting mad/even/scared/tense will only feed his confusion and result in more of the same. Be calm, ride it out and then get back to the topic at hand.

3. Ask Again

Some horses are over-eager to the point of getting worked up when something new or challenging is presented to them. In this case, it is wise to just quiet your aids until the horse settles down. When you think the horse can respond to you, simply ask again. Stay on topic and don't waver when your horse spots the horse-eating monster in the corner of the arena. Wait through the next confusions and then ask again. Staying calm and consistent can help many a horse become more reliant on you as the herd leader.

4. Change the Topic

Sometimes it is easier to completely change the topic. If you are asking for more throughness and you meet even more resistance, skip the forward and go to a lateral exercise. Asking for something different often gives the horse a different feel and something new to focus on.

5. Go Forward

Bucking/rearing/side stepping... they all start with a lack of 'forward'. If you allow the horse to stop his legs (even momentarily), you will effectively be asking for him to get creative. If at all possible, teach your horse to respond to moving his legs when you ask him to, so that when you're in a bind, the muscle memory is already in place and will overtake the mind. Just move. It may resolve many situations before they even have a chance to develop.

6. Focus on Straightness

When things start falling apart, the first thing to go is the horse's straightness. Although it seems that the horse loses straightness as an avoidance strategy, the resulting imbalance is often disconcerting for horses. Do your best to encourage the horse to step underneath his body, staying straight even if on a turn. Keep the shoulders in the body and the hips in line with the shoulders.

7. Be Prepared to Stay For the Long Haul

This is when stubborness is useful. Sometimes, you have to demonstrate to the horse that you will stick with the program regardless of how long it takes to achieve some level of calmness.

8. Finish As Soon As You Get A "Yes"

Other times, or when you are able to settle your horse, quitting while you're ahead may be just the ticket. Be sure to always finish on a good note - when the horse is calm and after even one step in the right direction.

There is no one-size-fits-all in riding. Though we'd love to have that perfectly compliant horse all the time, the reality is that even the sweetest horse finds something to say once in a while. If you know your horse well enough, you can get through the dicey situations in a way that helps you reach your training goals sooner than later.

Your turn: What do you do when your ride isn't going exactly as planned?

Now is the time to re-evaluate your goals and path to riding success!

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look our Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

design your overarching goals

long- and short-term planning,

debrief your special events such as clinics or shows

reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals

sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Why an Active Stretch is Nothing Like a Neck-Down

Stretchy Walk — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

In the beginning, if I could get the horse to drop his head even just below the withers, I thought I was getting a beginner sort of stretch. I was so pleased that I could influence the horse enough to get him to drop his neck.

Then as time went on, and with my ever-patient instructor at my side, I realized that just getting the horse to drop his neck actually had nothing to do with getting a stretch.

Why not?

Well, that was my burning question after about a month (or more!) of neck-downs and still no real stretch!

The Passive Stretch

In reality, the passive stretch is not really a stretch. It is more of a what I now think of as a "neck-down". The catch is that many people cannot tell the difference between a passive versus an active stretch, and therefore get caught in the passive conundrum without even knowing it.

When you are new to getting your horse to stretch, you don't know what a truly active stretch feels like. Initially, it can even be a little overwhelming to watch the horse as his neck goes down, down, down, seemingly into a never-ending abyss. It can even become a little uncomfortable to feel the imbalance the neck-down may cause, since the horse does in fact fall to the forehand in a passive stretch.

The neck-down comes from the reins. You learn that if you take the contact long enough, the horse will start looking for a release. At one point, the horse will drop his head and you will release. And so - as with anything (right?) - take more contact and the horse will quickly learn to drop his head even lower. Your release at the bottom will reinforce that he did the right thing.

And then your superstar fantastic instructor tells you that you are NOT doing a stretch!

😉

Problems

After many, many more tries, you might start to discover that the problem with the passive stretch is that it is merely a posture. Similar to reaching down for grass, the horse learns to reach down for the pressure release. If the back was hollow before the neck going down, it will still be hollow. If the horse wasn't properly using his hind end, the disengagement will continue and might even become more pronounced.

At the walk, it might not be much of a problem. At the trot, you can begin to really feel the horse leaning to the forehand. If you try a neck-down at the canter, you will really know what imbalance feels like! Beware - the horse may fall to the forehand enough to slip or trip.

The Active Stretch

The active stretch is different in so many ways.

1. It starts from the hind end. The key is that there should be movement. So without initiating impulsion from the hind end, there will be no stretch.

2. The energy travels over the top line, and because of that energy, the horse reaches forward to the bit. If the horse is being truly energetic - from the rear - he will spontaneously want to round, release the tension in the top line, and begin the stretch.

You might feel a surge of energy (I think of it as a mild whip-lash effect) which ends in the horse's desire to reach forward and down. How far he reaches forward and down depends on the depth of your release.

3. Finally, the major difference is that your release of the reins encourages the horse to reach down even more. Therefore, other than the original level of contact, there is no more taking up of rein or tightening or pulling or moving your elbows backward.

During and After the Stretch

The other major difference between the active and passive stretch is level of activity. While the horse is stretching, he is still with you. In the passive stretch, you effectively drop the horse and let go. Then, you must "take up" again (your reins, contact, energy, connection).

In the active stretch, you are still there through the whole movement. You can half-halt through your seat and reins, you can use your leg aids and you can smoothly resume the usual riding outline once the stretch is over.

The reins are not loopy, or completely released.

There is always a light, effective contact between you and your horse, regardless of where the head and neck is.

Begin to Float

You will know when you have found the active stretch. There is simply no comparison to the neck-down. You will feel:

- the horse's energy surge

- the back actually becoming rounder and stronger

- the strides become larger and bolder

- the body loosen up, the horse become enthusiastic and calm at the same time, and just this overall buoyancy that wasn't there with the neck down.

Combine all the above and you will begin to float, equine-style!

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Start from any gait (even a reverse)

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* Safety first! As per John Lyons, here are three rules to live by to keep you and your horse safe through any training session:

- You can't get hurt.

- Your horse can't get hurt.

- The horse is better at the end of the training session than at the beginning.

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Why an Active Stretch is Nothing Like a Neck-Down

The Passive Stretch

Problems

The Active Stretch

During and After the Stretch

Begin to Float

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding