Bend: Top 8 Common Mistakes We ALL Make!

Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

You can't say you've never done these things! Still, we make mistakes and then we learn from them!

As horse riders, one of the first things we learn to do is ride on turns or circles. That's likely because many of us ride in enclosed rings or arenas, but also, we begin to learn about the value of "lateral suppleness", which essentially begins with the horse bending left and right.

Initially, we learn that the horse needs to assume a "banana-like curve" in his body - that's the bend. We learn the aids for bend, and then we proceed to apply them. Sounds so simple!

Along the way, we learn through mistakes all about the NOT bends that can happen, and what we have to do to avoid them! Here are some that I'm familiar with (!), from (what I think of as) the least problematic, to the most.

8. Looking too far into the turn

If you're a hunter/jumper, or a western competition trail rider, or if you ride in any kind of obstacle-based event, then yes, your head should turn long before you need the horse to. That is because you have to gauge distances, arcs, strides and balance - all very important things that need to fall into place between obstacles.

However.

If you are doing "flat work" or dressage, and you're interested in developing bend for the sake of suppleness, then it actually helps to limit how far you turn your head. All you need to do is to look through your horse's ears. That's because if your horse is ON a bend, he will already have his head and neck slightly turned in, equal to the arc of the circle.

That's all the rider has to do as well, because too much turn will actually change the rider's position, weight and balance - right down to the pelvis. If you are on a particular circle, all you need to do is look ahead just enough to see the next quarter of the circle.

7. Bend just the horse's head and neck

It's SO EASY to just pull the horse's head around. All we have to do is pull in the direction of the turn, right?!

Over time, we learn that pulling on the rein causes the horse to lose balance, encourages the horse to drift out and bulge his outside shoulder, and even blocks the inside hind leg stride.

The problem is, we often can't tell that we're doing it. On some horses, it's so easy to get that neck into a pretty arc. Then we get tricked into thinking that we have such a great bend going on, but it turns out that the bend doesn't go through the body.

An observer on the ground is very helpful, so they can tell you the actual amount of bend through the body. They can also see how your horse tracks up as he travels over a circle.

6. Not bending into the turn ourselves

Much like horses, we have our "hollow side" and our "stiff side". We tend to overturn on the side that is easiest for us to turn into. Then we (usually) don't turn at all on our stiff side. Watch carefully and you might notice that most riders stay bent in one direction (most often to the left) and they stay bent that way in the other direction too!

As riders, we need to be ambidextrous - not just in our hands, but in our entire body! Ideally, we would turn into the circles equally well on both sides. This means that we need to turn our body from the seat - when we turn right, our right shoulder goes back as our left shoulder comes forward. Our head and neck look in the direction of the turn, and our hands AND legs follow the seat. When we turn left, we change everything to the left side. Here is a great exercise for you to try off the horse. 

5. No half-halts

It's so easy to forget the half-halts when we begin a new bend! We eagerly look where we want to go, and then... well, we GO!

But your horse often gets to scramble to stay with you because he had no idea he was going to turn in that moment. He might have been leaning onto the inside shoulder, or heavy on the forehand, or simply just trucking along with the understanding that he was going to follow that rail... forever!

You can use the half-halt to rebalance the horse if he's off balance, or just to give him a small "heads up" that you want him to turn. Do it a few strides before the turn to give your horse time to understand and adjust.

4. Uneven hands/reins

This is a very common mistake that we all make.

It's easy and very tempting to just pull back on the inside rein to turn, or to get that bend! So when we pull, our inside hand goes further back than the outside hand, and thus begins a vicious cycle of crookedness in our own body.

Some people raise one hand, others take a rein wide to their knee, others take a rein across the horse's withers, some twist the rein... in any case, the hands and reins become uneven. As soon as there's unevenness in the rider, there will be unevenness in the horse. It's very important to keep the hands in front of the pommel and in line with each other.

Turn using your body aids (not your hands only) and the outside rein, and bend using the same aids too.

Now we're coming down to the most common errors.

3. Collapse through the body

It's also easy to collapse on a bend or turn.

If you look at a rider from behind, the rider's back should be equally tall on both sides. If you see that one side is shorter, or there's a bend in their side, we call that "collapsed" to that side. Many of us have a tendency to collapse because that's how we sit in a chair or in the car. It's an easy problem to be unconscious about since it's hard to feel the collapse in your body.

Once way you can tell if you've collapsed is to look at your knee bends. Is one knee bent more than the other? Fix the knee bend by fixing the position of your seat - maybe bump your seat to the left. You will have to straighten through your side to compensate. Everything else will correct itself along with it, including the angle of your knees!

2. Lean into the turns

Most beginner riders tend to lean going into turns. This is because we're so used to leaning into a turn in a car, on a bicycle or motorcycle, that we automatically do the same thing on the horse.

Unfortunately, the horse doesn't respond the same way as our vehicles, and when we lean, the horse will have to drift out or fall in (depending on the horse's stronger and weaker sides).  And so we spend quite some time wondering why the horse makes smaller circles in one direction, and larger circles in the other!

But once we know how to stay upright in our body even while we're on a turn, most of the leaning problems dissolve away on their own.

1. Hands only!

And finally, the number 1 mistake we ALL make, especially early in our riding career, is to try to turn the horse by pulling his nose in one direction. Because, if we just pull him around, the rest of his body will follow, right?

Well, after some experience, we realize that no, it doesn't work that way! Horses can surely turn their heads one way and carry on in the opposite direction - much to our initial surprise! Oh, what to do?!

Over time, we learn all about the other aids. We learn how to keep the horse "between the legs and reins" and we realize that we don't need to use our hands as much as we thought! In fact, the less we pull, the better the horse can go.

We can rely less on our hands and more on the other aids.

***

And that rounds up the 8 most common rider errors when it comes to circles and bends.

One of the biggest recommendations I can make for all these errors is to get videos of yourself! It can be quite eye-opening compared to what you feel while you're riding. Of course, there's also no replacement to an educated eye on the ground as well.

If you enjoyed the information in this article, you will find much more in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

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This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

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Goal Setting For The Equestrian
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If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the new Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

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Get Rid Of That Tension: Four Steps To Improved Suppleness

suppleness

Suppleness can be an elusive concept for many people as well as horses. On the one hand, "finding" suppleness can be a rather long term and difficult undertaking, especially for novice horses or riders. On the other, suppleness is the key to all good movement. Without suppleness, you and your horse are left to always ride in tension and with a counterproductive posture.

Each component listed below takes time to learn and develop. In fact, you will likely need to go through these steps every time you learn something new with your horse. Every new skill will cause a certain amount of tension until both you and your horse figure out how to do the movement with better balance and impulsion.

I use these steps to help me stay focused on what needs to be done when. In other words, you can't go to increase the energy if you haven't found a clear rhythm yet. Do this for every single movement - a simple trot circle, or a walk pirouette, a lengthen or a half pass. It doesn't really matter what you're doing. Just work on each component of the movement in this order, and work towards reducing tension and improving suppleness.

1.Rhythm

First off, find rhythm. Pay attention to your horse's footfalls. Is he doing a clear 2-beat in the trot? Can you hear an even 1,2,3 - suspension in the canter? Listen closely, feel for the footfalls, and make sure the rhythm is crystal clear.

If you hear muddled footsteps, take note of your aids. Maybe you need to strengthen your seat aids, or use more leg for better impulsion. Maybe you need to actually slow down a bit to allow your horse enough time for each footfall.

In each case, focus on finding a good rhythm for your horse. He should be able to maintain it, regularly, for several strides. Don't go on to Step 2 until you have a clear, strong rhythm.

2. Energy

Next, work on energy level. There are times when almost all horses need to increase energy. It might happen as you come into a corner, or when you are turning on a small circle. Your horse might "suck back" in a lateral movement like a shoulder-in or leg yield. The idea is to get the rhythm first, then recognize when your horse is letting the energy "out the back end."

Use your legs and follow with your seat. Ask your horse for more energy, which should translate into bigger strides and a rounder back. If your horse flattens and just rushes along, use half-halts to rebalance. Make sure you have rhythm, then ask for energy all over again.

3. Longitudinal Flexion

Once you have rhythm and energy, you can focus on getting your horse to move "over the back." The energy you now have can be transferred over the back to allow your horse to round better. Half-halts help a lot, but equally important is your seat and upper body balance. Try to stay with the horse's movement (don't get left behind) and then lighten your seat (tighten your buttocks) so that you don't inadvertently stop the energy in the saddle area.

Ride the energy, go with the forward motion, and then use your half-halts to keep your horse's balance from falling to the forehand.

4. Lateral Flexion

After you have the horse moving over the back, you can focus on side-to-side flexion and bend. I find that once the horse finds longitudinal flexion, he'll flex laterally much more easily than if he was tight over the back. So first, you must have rhythm, energy and roundness.




Then work on the sides. You can ask for a mild flex to the inside (or outside too) using just your upper body position and light fingers. Or you can work on a true bend using your seat, leg aids and upper body and hands.

When bending, make sure you don't overbend - a 20-meter circle or turn has only a mild bend. Increase the amount of bend as your circle gets smaller. But make sure you bend through the body, not just the neck. Your leg, seat, upper body and hands should be also bent according to your circle.

Use the outside rein to prevent an overbend but use your inside leg and seat to create the bend in the first place. Be sure to have mini-releases on your inside rein (make the rein "flutter") so you don't take steady pressure and prevent the inside hind leg from coming under the body.

There are surely many other ways to improve your horse's suppleness but I find this method works well, especially if you are riding without an instructor. You can just go through each part in your mind.

As you get better at it, you'll go through each step fairly quickly. In fact, you might get through all four steps within 2-3 strides of your horse. Do you have rhythm? Great, then get some energy. Enough energy? Then let the energy come over the back. Enough roundness? Then let's work on bend.

Final note: I find that as you go through these steps with your horse, your own tension starts to dissipate as well. For some people, breaking down the steps helps a lot to focus their intention. Other people might want to keep things more cohesive, and try to get it all together at the same time. 

In all cases, listen to your horse. Look for a rounder, swingier movement. Listen for snorts and deep breaths. Feel for lightness, better balance and maybe even floppy ears!

What do you do to improve suppleness? If you give this method a try, let us know how it worked out.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

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Horse Listening Book 2
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Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Stop printing off the articles! Your favorite training articles are compiled in this beautifully bound paperback book. Have everything at your fingertips - this book can be taken to the barn as a quick refresher or leisurely read at home.
From Horse Listening Book 2: Forward And Round To Training Success:
"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?
We all want our horses to improve in their athletic
development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....
But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.
Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.

Or not."

 

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☑️better balanced all-around

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Three Steps To “Brilliance” In Horse Riding

Brilliance
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Let's say you and your horse are doing pretty well in all your movements.

Let's also say that you've got a good grasp of the aids, and are using them effectively.

So you do well, especially if you show, but even if you don't. You ride almost imperceptibly and your horse moves along with accuracy.

What's next?

You could learn new skills. Challenge yourself and your horse with movements you haven't done before, that require more collection or self-carriage.

Or, you could work on what you already know - only make it better.

Brilliance

In dressage, we often talk about this evasive concept of "brilliance". Lots of people can get the job done, but not everyone can achieve "brilliance".

It's more than just putting down a pattern, although the pattern is an essential component.

It's more than the movements, although the movements are enhanced by brilliance.

You can't take your eyes off brilliance. You somehow become captivated by the performance in front of you. Time stands still, and you find yourself teleported into an equine-driven story that mesmerizes you and stops your breath.

The rider almost seems to disappear. The horse seems to love every second.

Brilliance can be demonstrated in a show environment, competitive activity, or just in your back yard. You can find brilliance in the nearest riding ring, in any discipline and in any riding style.

But the key question is: how do you develop it?

The First Step: Lateral Flexion and Bend

Maintaining a steady lateral position in the direction of movement is the first key to relaxation for the horse.

Flexion refers to the horse looking in the direction of travel. It is achieved by turning the head in toward the arc of the turn, at the amount needed. So if you are on a large circle, only a small amount of flexion is needed.

The inside hand (and rein) is responsible for flexion. Make sure your own shoulders are "open" into the direction you're going in. Don't point your shoulders left while riding right! Use small finger squeezes to encourage your horse to look into the direction of travel. The smaller the circle, the more the horse should be looking in.

Bend happens in the body, and is the result of the horse "wrapping around" your inside leg. So bend is initiated by your inside leg. The horse's body should be bent into the turn pretty much to the same degree as the horse's head. So a large circle requires a fairly small bend while smaller circles should get the most bend through the horse's body.

Position your inside leg at the girth, and your outside leg behind the girth. Encourage your horse to shift away from your inside leg as you apply pressure. Your seat should also be pointing into the direction of movement and you should have more weight on the inside seat bone.

But there's more to brilliance than just bend and flexion.

The Second Step: Longitudinal Flexion

This is a fancy term for developing "roundness" in your horse. To me, longitudinal means "over the top line". The more flexion you have over the back, the rounder your horse moves and feels. The horse reaches deeper with the hind legs, the back rises (and drops equally in rhythm with the stride), the neck elevation rises and the neck gets thicker near the withers. You might see the neck muscles begin to contract and relax in the movement (as opposed to not being able to see any muscle movement at all).

Essentially, your horse begins to collect, even if only a little.

How much your horse can step underneath the body with his hind legs dictates how round he can get. The rounder he can get, the freer he can move in his body, and the better he can carry your weight. Roundness is an important part of "freeness", meaning that he can allow the energy you initiate come through his body and into the movement itself.

Longitudinal flexion dictates how flashy the horse can look. Even the flattest horse can develop animated, sweeping movement when he begins to learn to round.

Develop better roundness through energizing the horse with legs and seat, and half-halting and releasing in time so that the horse doesn't just move faster or change gait. Rather, you want him to move bigger, stronger, rounder (you have to ride that way in your seat too).

Third step: Activity

Your horse can have lateral and longitudinal flexion but still be a little short of "brilliance". That is because there is another key component that acts as the icing on the cake.

Here's one tip: you can probably never have enough activity in your horse's movement. So just when you think you have enough energy and bounce, you can probably add a shade more.

More movement, more energy, more freedom. (psst!! Not faster!)

Even if you work at a relatively slow pace (think western pleasure), you can still encourage more activity. Keep the flexions and work on allowing, or even developing, your horse's ability to move freely, especially in the front end.

The energy should not be stifled, but rather let through the body.




There should be no tension - in the topline, the underline, or anywhere else. The horse should look active but relaxed at the same time.

And the clincher - if all this falls into place together at the same time, he will appear happy. Think snorts, floppy ears, bright eyes, soft poll and jaw. Enthusiastic. Interested.

And What About You?

Well, the beauty of riding in brilliance is that all the attention is taken away from you. Your job is to disappear into the horse, becoming only a prop as he does his thing.

Of course, we all know there is a lot more to it than that. But that is what it looks like.

One more note: brilliance doesn't happen every time you ride, although you can encourage it using the three steps above.

It doesn't even necessarily happen over the course of a whole ride. You might find brilliance one movement at a time, or minutes at a time. Don't worry. Keep working toward adding together moments of brilliance until you can maintain it longer and longer. It is a skill that can be developed - both of you can work toward it.

Can you think of other aspects to achieving brilliance in riding? Let us know in the comments below.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the  Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

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Focus On Transitions – Week 4

Title 4This is our fourth and final week of Focus On Transitions. I hope you've been able to try some of the exercises in your daily riding, and have found them to be useful in helping to improve your horse's transitions as well as overall gaits and way of going. I'm in the process of putting together a much more complete course package for those who wanted more. Go to my Practice Sessions page for more details.

If you missed the first three exercises, click on the appropriate link below. Although the exercises have been progressively difficult, you can always mix them up and use them repeatedly over the course of several weeks. It never hurts to go back to the more simple exercises on a day that you might want to keep things easy, or skip one and go to the more challenging exercise. It all depends on you and your horse's needs.

I'd also love to hear your feedback - which ones you tried, how things went, what did they do for you and your horse. Just email me at fwdnrnd@gmail.com

Focus On Transitions - Week One

Focus On Transitions - Week Two

Focus On Transitions - Week Three

I've saved the most interesting exercise for the last one! Enjoy!

Purpose:

This week, we're going to progress into more changes - including changes of bend as well as gaits. We have embedded circles at different gaits, which will require your horse to step deeper under the body and bend more than in previous exercises. We continue with straight line transitions and non-progressive as well as progressive transitions.

You can simplify the exercise by keeping to one gait for both circles. You can make the exercise more difficult by cantering the 10-metre circle and trotting the 20-metre circle.

Goals:

  • Accurate 20-metre circle which transitions to a 10-metre circle
  • Straight and balanced canter-walk and walk-canter transitions
  • Effective use of corners at trot
  • Adequate bend for 20-metre vs. 10-metre circles
  • Trot to halt transition on a straight line

Aids:

See the previous articles for the walk-canter and canter-walk, as well as the walk-trot and trot-walk transitions.

Trot-Halt Transition

This is a non-progressive, downward transition that requires more energy and response from the horse than you might think.

1. Trot

As this is the last "movement" of the exercise, you come to the halt from the 20-metre trot circle. Make sure you have a strong, round trot as you come out of the circle. If your horse has a tendency to slow down on a circle, you might need to energize him from the hind end before heading onto the straight line. If your horse tends to rush, use a half-halt or two to help him balance more to the hind end before the straight line.

2. Straight Line

You come out of a mild 20-metre bend to the rail. Be sure to keep your horse's shoulders from "leaking to the outside" and pointing to the rail. Keep the horse straight on the straight line. Half-halt through the last two or three strides in preparation for the halt.

3. Halt

Stop with your seat. Keep your legs on the horse's side, but not active. Keep contact with the reins, but avoid pulling back. Try to get the halt more from your seat than your hands. Ideally, your horse should stop straight (not leaning to one side) and square (front legs parallel and hind legs parallel).




Exercise:

T4
Transition Exercise #4. © Horse Listening, 2015

Start at Walk before C, on the left rein.

Transition to canter at C, left lead. 20-metre canter circle.

Transition to trot at C. 10-metre trot circle.

Make sure you increase your horse's bend for this circle. He might want to slow down a bit - you can accept that if you feel that the initial trot was too fast, but make sure you keep his energy up and the stride length long.

Continue at trot through the corner.

Walk at S.

Walk the sharp left turn at E, straight over X, and walk the sharp right turn at B.

Canter transition at P.

20-metre canter circle, right lead, starting at A.

10-metre trot circle at A.

Come out of the trot circle and halt before the corner.

You can walk out of the exercise and start the whole thing over again by walking across the diagonal (maybe in a nice stretchy walk?) and starting again before C. Or you can continue straight along the rail, and start at C going in the opposite direction. Your walk lines will be on the opposite sides of the rails.

Using embedded circles like this helps both you and your horse develop a really good sense of the bend and engagement it takes to transition between small and large circles. Add the gait transitions, and it's not as easy as it looks!

Let me know how you do. You can post in the comments below, or email me directly.

Happy Riding!

If you like this sort of pattern work, join my Practice Sessions Premium Membership. The Practice Sessions are a complete program beginning with exercises like the one above, designed to improve specific aspects of the horse and rider. All set up and ready to go, all you have to do is watch the video, print off the pattern PDF and head to the barn!

But there's so much more! There's quality of movement exercises, theory "Mini-Classes" on specific aids and figures, a fantastic group of riders who motivate and encourage each other, and so much more! Click here to learn more.

Disclaimer: Use this as a guideline but you might need your instructor to respond to your individual needs. By using information on this site, you agree and understand that you are fully responsible for your progress, results and safety. We offer no representations, warranties or guarantees verbally or in writing regarding your improvement or your horse’s response or results of any kind. Always use the information on this site with a view toward safety for both you and your horse. Use your common sense when around horses.

Horse Listening

Horse Listening - The Book
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6 Steps To A Well-Balanced Change of Direction

turn
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

How often have you seen a horse and rider negotiate a change of direction, only to flatten out through the curve into a straight line, causing a sharp, imbalanced scramble far misplaced from the original intended location? In mild cases, the rider hangs on adeptly, perhaps unseated but still able to negotiate the inaccurate change of direction. However, the sharp turn always runs the risk of unbalancing the horse to the point of tripping or stumbling, and the rider falling off.

How often has it happened to you? If your horse is used to leaning into a change, or dropping a shoulder or cutting corners, then this article is for you!

Changing directions smoothly can often be as challenging as achieving any well-balanced transition. Most horses are stronger on one side than the other, much like their human counterparts. Suppling the horse enough to be able to bear weight equally on both sides takes time, quality practice and a solid understanding of how the aids can assist the horse in maintaining balance while remaining loose and athletic through a turn.

There are many types of turns - a change of direction across the diagonal, several changes of bend through a serpentine, a teardrop that starts toward the end of the ring and arcs back to the rail, and so many more. They can be done at all gaits and require the same sort of balance change regardless of location or type of turn.

S change

The approach to any change of direction can be narrowed down to 6 steps that are similar regardless of gait or placement of turn. Let's use this most basic change of direction as an example. I call it the "S change" (because it looks like an S and spans from one end of the arena to the other). I'm assuming you are riding in a 20x40 meter arena but please feel free to modify based on your own needs. 

Let's say you are approaching a change of direction at X (in the center of the ring). You are on the left rein at A and you will go through X to turn right.

1. Approach a straight line - still bent in the original direction.

This means that you are using your left turn aids - weight on the left seat bone and body pointing slightly left. At this moment, you are riding the turn more as if it were half of a 20-meter circle, even though it won't be a full circle. You do not go into the corner of the ring. You hit the rail just past F but then come off the rail withing 3 strides, back to the original 20-meter circle. However, instead of continuing on the circle, you head for X.

Your horse should be both flexed and bent to the left. Make sure he is looking in the direction of the turn (flexion) and also lightly bent to the left through the rib cage. Only flex and bend enough to be riding in line with the curve that is needed (in other words, don't overbend the horse).

2. Half-halt (usually on the outside rein).

Several strides before you come to X, apply a half-halt. This helps to rebalance your horse and lets him know something is going to change.

3. Straighten.

Now, instead of continuing on the original left circle, you are going to head right.

BUT - at this point, many people make a mistake. They often go directly from the left bend to the right. It's almost as if they are driving a car or a bicycle and turning the steering wheel (or handlebars) from left to right. This gives the horse no time to reposition his legs or carry his weight. 

Instead of just switching your aids left to right, wait for a few strides. Straighten the horse and allow him to get his hind legs underneath him. As you go over X, be straight! If you give yourself 3-5 strides of straightness, your horse will be able to be much more balanced going into the turn. So imagine that you should be straight two strides before X and two strides after X. You can always cut the number of strides shorter as your horse gets better at rebalancing into the new turn. But at the beginning, give him plenty of room.

4. Half-halt (usually on the outside rein).

Yep. Use another half-halt at or just past X. There is going to be another change to the new direction. Again, the half-halt helps him rebelance to the hind end and gives him a hint that something new is coming.

5. Flexion and bend to the new direction.

I like to break this part down into two quick stages. First, use your new inside aids (right) to get your horse looking to the right. This is flexion. Then, use your turn aids to bend the horse to the right. Note: You are still moving straight over X at this point - do not actually turn yet.

6. Turn.

Once you have your flexion and bend, simply allow the horse to complete the change of direction. The new bend should be in line with the new curve and you will proceed to hit the rail for 3 strides, then come off the rail. Don't go into the corner but head to C as if you are on a new 20-meter circle. 




These six steps take a matter of seconds to complete. There isn't much time, so know what you're going to do ahead of the S, and then just do it!

I know what you're going to say. These 6 steps complicate matters far too much! 

In fact, the steps simplify things for the horse. I know we all want to just sit there and let the horse handle everything, but when we can break things down into mini-steps, the horse almost always benefits - in a physical, mental and even emotional way. So riding actively, helping the horse navigate through the change of bend through a straight line, and rebalancing with half-halts invariably sets your horse up for more success in the long run.

Practice these steps in your changes of direction over and over again. If your horse has a habit of leaning into the turns, it might take a month or more of gentle repetition to see significant changes. But if you do stick to the plan, one day you just might notice that your horse flows through direction changes as if he were just born that way!

Try this over the next while and let us know how things went in the comments below.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Horse Listening Book 2
Click to learn more.

Buy the Book! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

From the book:
"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?
We all want our horses to improve in their athletic
development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....
But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.
Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.
Or not."
Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.
The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:
➡happier in his body
➡happier in his "work"
➡better balanced all-around

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Why You Must Shoulder-Fore On the Rail and How To Do It

shoulder-foreThe shoulder-fore is the like the little sibling that always plays second fiddle to the shoulder-in. But don't discount its power.

When left to themselves, most horses will travel crookedly up a line. In fact, they may also be crooked on circles.

On a straight line, they tend to lean outward toward the rail with their front end. So, if you watch a horse go up a rail from behind, you will clearly see the front end traveling on a line closer to the rail, while the hind end drifts somewhat off the rail. There might be a tendency for the horse's head and neck to point outward, away from the direction of travel. So if the horse is going right, the head and neck point left.

Sound familiar? If so, you're not alone. Most horses start life with a stronger side and a weaker side, and if left unchecked, that crookedness can maintain itself or even become more pronounced through riding. So it falls to the rider to become educated and sensitive enough to feel the crookedness - and then correct it over time. As with all other skills, if the horse is ridden in a manner that encourages suppleness and flexion, the horse will overcome the crookedness.

The rider, too, has a significant role in the process. For if the rider just follows the horse's movements, she will also be riding in a way that points her core to the wall, travelling with a crooked seat and imbalanced posture.

What is the shoulder-fore?

Although we often hear about the shoulder-in, we tend to overlook the shoulder-fore as a less worthy exercise. This is far from the truth. The shoulder-fore is easier to learn for both horse and rider and sets them on their way to becoming straighter and more supple.

The shoulder-fore is a movement that positions the horse's shoulders slightly to the inside of the hips. The way you know the horse is "in" shoulder-fore is by looking at the horse's footfalls. Simply put, the horse that has hind footsteps falling into front footsteps is straight. The horse that has the front footsteps landing slightly to the inside of the horse's hind footsteps is travelling in shoulder-fore.

The shoulder-fore requires the horse to "articulate" more with the joints in the hind end, encourages a deeper stride length, and helps the horse balance better, allowing the energy to come over the topline and release the muscles over the back. It is a movement that should be in your riding vocabulary from the beginning to the end of the ride.

How to shoulder-fore:

1. Negotiate a turn or corner in the same manner as usual. Position your body on the bend to the inside, with your seat weighted slightly to the inside, inside leg at the girth, outside leg behind the girth and rein aids following your shoulders toward the turn. 

2. Then come out of the turn.

3. But keep the horse on the same mild bend, going straight on the rail.

4. Feel for the horse's shoulders. They should feel slightly off-set to the inside.

At this point, the novice horse tends to want to fall into the middle of the ring, coming off the rail. It is the job of your inside leg, seat bone and rein to keep the horse on the line. Your outside rein can also help to keep the straightness by half-halting to counter the horse's momentum toward the inside. It can also keep the neck fairly straight.

Get a friend to monitor your horse's foot falls and let you know about the angle of the horse's body. She should tell you when you have it right so that you can memorize what it feels like to have straightness in your horse's movements.

Shoulder-fore everywhere!

When you get good at it on the rail, try it off the rail. If you go straight up the ring on the quarter line, you will have enough room to your outside so that you have to really use your outside aids to help maintain the shoulder fore, but not so far that you can't use the rail as a reference point to see and feel the position of the shoulders.

Then try it on center line. It gets harder to feel the angle when there is no wall to gauge your position with. But eventually, you should be able to actually feel the angle of the horse's body regardless of whether or not you have a wall to refer to.

For more shoulder-fore fun, start up the center line with a right shoulder-fore, then as you cross X, switch to a left shoulder-fore. 




Finally, give it a try on a circle. At this point, you should be able to identify the shoulder position on a bend. So when you feel that your horse is pointing his shoulders to the outside of the circle, be a responsible rider and bring those shoulders into the shoulder'fore position, even while you are travelling on a bend around the circle.

Results

See what your horse thinks about it. If you get a snort, be happy! If you get a softening of the neck and jaw to the inside, be thrilled. And if you get bouncy-bouncy, rolling gaits (do this in walk, trot and canter) and the feeling that you are spending more time in the air than on the ground, then celebrate! 

For helping the horse to release tension, swing through the back, stay straight and energize is the goal of all riding!

*P.S. All the above is also equally relevant to the shoulder-in. But that can be a topic for another time.

Try the shoulder-in during your next ride and let us know how it works for you and your horse.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the new Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Horse Listening The Book
Click to learn more.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

⭐ Personally signed books available! Just send me a message. ⭐
Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?
By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:
- the rider’s aids
- the use of the seat
- the half-halt
- accurate turns and circles
- transitions
- horse ownership and horse care
- goal setting for the rider
- rein lameness
… and much more!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Bend: How to Drift Out on Purpose

drift out
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

It is true that we regularly deliberate about the evils of overusing the inside rein.

It is also true that we constantly discuss the importance of the horse responding to your outside aids and how they regulate the impulsion, speed and bend of the horse.

But there is a time that it is perfectly fine, or almost advisable, for you to allow the horse to drift to the outside.

When It's OK To Let Your Horse Drift Out

Have you ever found yourself heading into an ever-decreasing spiral after a sudden sideways step to the inside? Maybe your horse spooked momentarily and did an exit-stage-left - at which point, you fell into the turn with him and almost encouraged the turn to become a tighter-tighter circle that left you unseated and both of you confused.

Or maybe you were indicating a mild turn or heading into a corner, but your horse misinterpreted your aids into thinking that he should drop the inside shoulder and "fall in", thereby reducing the arc of the circle you were intending to follow.

Or your efforts to create an inside bend were met with a braced jaw and heavy weight on the rein.

In any case, you felt a stiffness on the inside aids. You knew that just going with the flow was not conducive to maintaining balance, but you went along because there was seemingly not much else that could be done.

The "Drift-Out"

Letting the horse escape ever so slightly to the outside might be just what you need in those moments.

Although we do go on and on about keeping strong outside rein and leg aids, a brief softening of the outside aids might be just the ticket to allow your horse to shift his weight from the inside to the outside. Use a corresponding inside leg to support the horse's rib cage, and you might find him stepping away from the inside leg, softening on the inside rein and balancing more to the outside (which would then begin to even out his balance).

If you dressage readers think that this sounds suspiciously like a leg yield, you'd be right!

The difference here is that you'd be doing a leg yield on a turn or circle, not just on a straight line.

Similar to the straight leg yield, the legs should cross and the body moves to the outside. However, in the drift-out, you might actually encourage the horse to take a deeper bend through the body. After all, you are on a turn or a circle, and a bend is necessary to allow the horse's inside hind leg to come deeper underneath the body. During a turn, the leg can support the horse's balance better and successfully counteract the force of gravity.




The Aids

It is always better to begin the aids before the horse has fully committed his weight to the inside.

1. Start with your inside leg and seat. In the rhythm of the gait, apply pressure with your leg (can be the thigh and calf) at the girth. Use your seat to push forward toward the front of the saddle.

2. Maintain or if possible, soften the pressure on the inside rein. Be sure you are not pulling back.

3. Soften (but do not completely release) the outside rein and leg aids.

4. Encourage or allow the horse to step to the outside, crossing the legs within the rhythm of the gait.

5. Do this for two to four strides. You might need to repeat this exercise several times to benefit from it. However, it is not necessary to drift out for too many steps in a row, as it is a correction and not a way of going.

Good signs

You know you're on the right track if your horse increases the depth of his bend with less effort.

He might lighten up on the inside rein. His rib cage might actually shift back in alignment with the body and certainly, the leaning pressure on your inside leg will be alleviated.

You might notice that the outside rein "fills up" with the bend of the neck and that there is a place for your outside leg to lie comfortably against.

You will probably feel the shift of the weight to the outside. Maybe your own seat will feel more evenly balanced over the center of the horse.

*****

Once you get good at drifting out, you will find a bend quicker and with less effort. You might want to explore the same idea in all the gaits, including the canter.

As with any correction, too much of a good thing might not make it great. Too much drifting out will result in the horse not responding to the outside aids, becoming crooked to the outside.

(In that case, you could try a counter-bend and drift in! The exact same principles would apply in the opposite way. But this can be a topic for another day.)

Have you ever intentionally allowed your horse to drift out? Let us know how it worked out.

Horse Listening

Horse Listening The Book
Click to learn more.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Buy the books for many more riding tips! Horse Listening Book Collection.
⭐ Personally signed books available! Just send me a message. ⭐
Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?
By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:
- the rider’s aids
- the use of the seat
- the half-halt
- accurate turns and circles
- transitions
- horse ownership and horse care
- goal setting for the rider
- rein lameness
… and much more!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Stop Kicking the Horse!

Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Too often, riders are determined to make their horses go with a swift kick or two (or three). At best, the horse lurches forward with arched back and raised neck, scrambling to get his legs underneath him despite being thrown to the forehand. At worst, the horse becomes resentful of the leg aid and learns to resist or even demonstrate his discomfort by kicking out, rearing or bucking.

Did you know that leg aids are used for more than just "go"? Leg aids are such an integral part of your ride that you simply can't do without them!

As you become a better rider, you will discover that the legs have so many messages to communicate other than "go". (Click here to tweet this if you agree)

Talk to different riders and they'll tell you the various uses of leg aids. Here are a few examples:

1. Impulsion

The most important result coming from your leg aids is impulsion. Ideally, the lightest lower leg squeeze should communicate an increase in movement from your horse. Two legs squeezing at the same time ask for a "scoot forward", causing the horse to tuck his hind under and releas a surge of energy forward. Physiologically, the horse's hind legs should step deeper underneath the body and allow the horse to begin the process of carrying more weight in the hind end.

2. Stride Length

Ideally, a deeper reach should mean a rounder back and an increase in stride length. Paired with half-halts, the energy obtained can be redirected in many ways - to a longitudinal stretch over the back, to a higher head and neck elevation and/or to more animated action through the entire body.

One leg can be used to create a deeper hind leg stride on that side of the horse. Theoretically, you could influence just one hind leg with the corresponding leg aid.

3. Bend

Use of one leg aid should encourage your horse to move away from that pressure. True bend (i.e. not a neck bend) should always begin at the seat, be reinforced by the leg, and then be contained with the reins.

4. Hind end position

Using your leg behind the girth should indicate that the hind end steps away from that pressure. Use of your outside leg behind the girth encourages the horse to move into a haunches in ("travers") position. Using your inside leg behind the girth is the key to the renvers (counter-bend), when the horse bends to the outside of the direction of movement.

5. Keep Moving

Two legs used at the same time could mean "keep doing what you were doing". This understanding is essential for movement such as the back-up, where the reins should be the last factor in the movement, and the legs (and seat) the first. Ideally, the horse should continue backing up without increased rein pressure until your legs soften and your seat asks for a halt.

6. Lift the Back

A gentle heel or spur lifting action underneath the rib cage should encourage the horse to lift his back. Of course, this aid is used in conjunction with the seat and hands but the legs can be an effective motivator for the horse to lift his rib cage and "round" in the movement.




7. Lateral Movement

The positioning of your inside leg at the girth and outside leg behind the girth should combine to indicate a lateral movement. Where your seat goes and how your hands finish the movement will differentiate the shoulder-fore from the shoulder-in from the leg yield from the half-pass.

With the exception of the leg yield, your legs position in a way that encourages inside bend and catch the outside hind end (from swinging out). Finally, the horse will proceed to step in the direction of movement if that is required.

Give Up On Kicking!

Kicking your horse only stuns, disturbs, imbalances, and hurts. Although kicking might be a useful way to start out for a beginning rider, once you have better balance in your seat and a more consistent contact with the bit, aim toward using your legs with more refinement.

Learn how to use your legs in the rhythm of the movement. Working against the movement only serves to irritate the horse because he simply cannot respond if the timing is out of sync with the footfalls. Good, effective leg aids work within the movement and are generally not noticeable. Great legs look like they are doing nothing at all.

In all cases, the essential thing you need to do is to keep soft, loose legs draped gently on your horse's side. In this manner, the legs are kind, responsive, clear and secure. The horse knows he can rely on the communication he is receiving from the leg aids, and with repetition, will know just what to do when!

Are there any other uses of the leg aids that I'm missing in this list? If so, please comment below!

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Horse Listening The Book
Click to learn more.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

⭐ Personally signed books available! Just send me a message at fwdnrnd@gmail.com ⭐
Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?
By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:
- the rider’s aids
- the use of the seat
- the half-halt
- accurate turns and circles
- transitions
- horse ownership and horse care
- goal setting for the rider
- rein lameness
… and much more!

Available as an eBook or paperback.